Audi A4 2.8 Quattro(Buying tips)
Discussion
Hello
im going to view one of these tonight,1997 P reg,green,full leather(rip in bolster)110K FSH,usual electrics etc.
i have done some reading up and it seems they dont suffer from much on the whole,although im going to check all the heater systems as i believe they can play up,im also taking it up on a ramp for a butchers underneath.
does anyone else have any input on any major/little niggly things i can pick up on?thanks
chris
im going to view one of these tonight,1997 P reg,green,full leather(rip in bolster)110K FSH,usual electrics etc.
i have done some reading up and it seems they dont suffer from much on the whole,although im going to check all the heater systems as i believe they can play up,im also taking it up on a ramp for a butchers underneath.
does anyone else have any input on any major/little niggly things i can pick up on?thanks
chris
What was it like then?
If it is the 2.8 30v engine then check the temp gauge does what it should. New sensor is cheap and easy to fit though.
My A6 with the same engine needed a new lambda and temp sensor to pass the emissons MOT. Poor fuel consumption can be a clue.
I pinched a few bits from Honest John -
What's Bad
Takes a few days to get used to the steering, seats and over-servoed brakes.
Heavy salted road spray may make brakes feel spongey. In Germany, deflectors are available FOC to cure this ('Auto Bild' magazine 24/11/2000). Poor AM radio reception.
What to Watch Out For
Similar expensive front wishbone bush problems as A6 and Passat - eliminated late 1999. Check the front lower suspension ball joints very carefully. Creaks from front suspension indicate wishbone problem: budget for £500 - £700 to replace unless carried out under recall programme.
Rear discs rust first. Mixed metal corrosion at unions of flexible brake pipes to rear wheel. Corrosion of alloy washers on rear brake caliper pipe unions can result in sudden and rapid loss of brake fluid.
Rattling catalytic converters, especially on 2.6, which has two costing £650 apiece. (*Mine has had a new cat but it wasn't £650, more like £250).
Lock of front passenger door can fail.
Bosch 'hot film' Mass Airflow Sensors seem to be failing regularly.
Protective rubber strips at bottoms of doors held on by mild steel clips which rust badly and disintegrate.
Possible oil consumption problem with 30v V6s, so have emissions checked for excessive HCs before buying.
fault with the immobiliser ignition switch transmission reader coil. Some develop faults with both the reader coil and the key transponder. If the car comes with two different keys, this is why.
If the drains for the ventilation plenum chamber get blocked with leaves water will have nowhere to go except into the car where it can cause electrical and electronic problems. Best to remove the plug in the drain under the battery.
If it is the 2.8 30v engine then check the temp gauge does what it should. New sensor is cheap and easy to fit though.
My A6 with the same engine needed a new lambda and temp sensor to pass the emissons MOT. Poor fuel consumption can be a clue.
I pinched a few bits from Honest John -
What's Bad
Takes a few days to get used to the steering, seats and over-servoed brakes.
Heavy salted road spray may make brakes feel spongey. In Germany, deflectors are available FOC to cure this ('Auto Bild' magazine 24/11/2000). Poor AM radio reception.
What to Watch Out For
Similar expensive front wishbone bush problems as A6 and Passat - eliminated late 1999. Check the front lower suspension ball joints very carefully. Creaks from front suspension indicate wishbone problem: budget for £500 - £700 to replace unless carried out under recall programme.
Rear discs rust first. Mixed metal corrosion at unions of flexible brake pipes to rear wheel. Corrosion of alloy washers on rear brake caliper pipe unions can result in sudden and rapid loss of brake fluid.
Rattling catalytic converters, especially on 2.6, which has two costing £650 apiece. (*Mine has had a new cat but it wasn't £650, more like £250).
Lock of front passenger door can fail.
Bosch 'hot film' Mass Airflow Sensors seem to be failing regularly.
Protective rubber strips at bottoms of doors held on by mild steel clips which rust badly and disintegrate.
Possible oil consumption problem with 30v V6s, so have emissions checked for excessive HCs before buying.
fault with the immobiliser ignition switch transmission reader coil. Some develop faults with both the reader coil and the key transponder. If the car comes with two different keys, this is why.
If the drains for the ventilation plenum chamber get blocked with leaves water will have nowhere to go except into the car where it can cause electrical and electronic problems. Best to remove the plug in the drain under the battery.
Edited by Dave80s on Tuesday 15th January 12:01
First the bad.. I should add that when driven comparably it was less economical than my (more powerful) 3.2 R32 golf so the engine isn't very efficient for the power it produces.
I also found that the radiator can split where the metal joins the plastic at the sides (so check for leaks).
On the other hand though it was a fantastic car. I had no problems with mine except the radiator which wasn't expensive to replace and the car was very comfortable, adequately quick, surprisingly fun to drive (had excellent fun driving full throttle to beat a friend in M5 once, actually had the M5 beaten on the bends! Even when he had the inside front wheel a clear visible gap off the road the Audi would gain consistently. We were both very surprised!) and far better built than any of its rivals. A solid choice.
I also found that the radiator can split where the metal joins the plastic at the sides (so check for leaks).
On the other hand though it was a fantastic car. I had no problems with mine except the radiator which wasn't expensive to replace and the car was very comfortable, adequately quick, surprisingly fun to drive (had excellent fun driving full throttle to beat a friend in M5 once, actually had the M5 beaten on the bends! Even when he had the inside front wheel a clear visible gap off the road the Audi would gain consistently. We were both very surprised!) and far better built than any of its rivals. A solid choice.
Don't do it! Buy my 1.8T Quattro instead! It's advertised here in the classifieds! (Hibiscus red, 3k)But seriously, I can't see any advanage of having a 2.8 over a 1.8T. My car will sit at 145mph all day long.. obviously not on the public highway.. ;-) I'm sure you get better MPG and it's lighter. Worth thinking about! I'm an enthusiastic driver and have been an Audi fan for ever.. the 1.8TQ is a drivers car and certainly the one to go for!
Edited by Mikey-S on Tuesday 15th January 15:39
i went to see it and on first impression's it looked very good,clean and tidy outside and in,with only a scratch on the boot and a worn drivers bolster which the seller had already told me about.
it started from cold well,engine sounded sweet,but it took about 4mins ticking over and 4 miles before it warmed up and even then the heater wasnt blowing warm air,nor did the aircon blow cold,in fact the aircon steamed up the windows.
this may be due to a sticking thermostat?(a similar problem to my other car with no stat in)or maybe due to an air block somewhere? it has just recently had new water pipes fitted around the engine block, i told him to give the garage a ring to sort it out.
i think the engine could do with a tune as it didnt pull as well as i thought,not seamless power.although it is due for an oil and filter change.
i could also hear a clunk from the rear diff when bringing up the clutch,there was a bit of backlash on it(i had it up on the ramps)with evidence of a leak in the past from the diff.
there was lots of recipts and bills for the car with new suspension arms and heater fan.FSH.only one key.
on the whole a nice car but it just didnt do 'it ' for me.
it started from cold well,engine sounded sweet,but it took about 4mins ticking over and 4 miles before it warmed up and even then the heater wasnt blowing warm air,nor did the aircon blow cold,in fact the aircon steamed up the windows.
this may be due to a sticking thermostat?(a similar problem to my other car with no stat in)or maybe due to an air block somewhere? it has just recently had new water pipes fitted around the engine block, i told him to give the garage a ring to sort it out.
i think the engine could do with a tune as it didnt pull as well as i thought,not seamless power.although it is due for an oil and filter change.
i could also hear a clunk from the rear diff when bringing up the clutch,there was a bit of backlash on it(i had it up on the ramps)with evidence of a leak in the past from the diff.
there was lots of recipts and bills for the car with new suspension arms and heater fan.FSH.only one key.
on the whole a nice car but it just didnt do 'it ' for me.
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