Mk2 Golf 16v trackday upgrades
Discussion
Hi Everyone
I have a tired but fairly original Mk2 16v with 120k on the clock languishing in a corner of the garage that I fancy transforming into a giant killing trackday weapon!!
Does anyone out there have experience of a similar job? I'm looking for recommendations on brake/ suspension upgrades, bolt-in cage suppliers, engine mods ( can't afford vr6 transplant
) and an exhaust that won't look like a refugee from a MacDonalds car park on a friday night, but will liberate a bit more poke.
Obviously I'll be stripping out the original interior/ soundproofing and fitting lightweight seats, etc and I was wondering how much weight can be lost and how much power can be gained without spending Liberia's trade deficit!
I've also posted this on the trackday forum.
Many thanks for all help.
I have a tired but fairly original Mk2 16v with 120k on the clock languishing in a corner of the garage that I fancy transforming into a giant killing trackday weapon!!
Does anyone out there have experience of a similar job? I'm looking for recommendations on brake/ suspension upgrades, bolt-in cage suppliers, engine mods ( can't afford vr6 transplant
) and an exhaust that won't look like a refugee from a MacDonalds car park on a friday night, but will liberate a bit more poke.Obviously I'll be stripping out the original interior/ soundproofing and fitting lightweight seats, etc and I was wondering how much weight can be lost and how much power can be gained without spending Liberia's trade deficit!
I've also posted this on the trackday forum.
Many thanks for all help.
Fitting G60 brakes is a well known upgrade. 280mm instead of 256mm.
Decent new springs and gas shocks would make a difference to the handling.
Replace all the bushes, maybe with polybushes but these can make the ride very harsh especially if you driving to the track.
Fit new gear linkage kit and maybe fitting a weighted linkage making a more direct and positive gearchange.
Thicker ARB and struts front and rear?
Don't know if a new exhaust would improve performance ditto for an fance air filter.
Decent new springs and gas shocks would make a difference to the handling.
Replace all the bushes, maybe with polybushes but these can make the ride very harsh especially if you driving to the track.
Fit new gear linkage kit and maybe fitting a weighted linkage making a more direct and positive gearchange.
Thicker ARB and struts front and rear?
Don't know if a new exhaust would improve performance ditto for an fance air filter.
Edited by GreatGranny on Wednesday 27th February 15:02
Roighto - relatively inexpensive stuff:
Polybushes - whole car kit is 40 quid from GSF
G60 top mounts - use genuine ones from VW, NOT copies, about 25 quid a piece
Eibach ARBS - 250 quid for the kit IIRC
280mm front brakes - all sorts of things across the VAG range use these, if yours is a later car you will just need carriers, calipers discs and pads.
Windage tray - off a diesel caddy, dirt cheap from VW
Free stuff:
Airbox - rip out the restrictor (front) and warm air feed (back). Cut out the side of the airbox and take the blanking plate out of the O/S wing for lots of cold air.
Timing - check it the old fashioned way (the timing mark lies). It must be perfect and releasing the tensioner tends to knock it out hafl a tooth so trial and error to make it bang on.
Fuel - make sure CO is set nice and high, from memory I think mine went best at 2.5
Polybushes - whole car kit is 40 quid from GSF
G60 top mounts - use genuine ones from VW, NOT copies, about 25 quid a piece
Eibach ARBS - 250 quid for the kit IIRC
280mm front brakes - all sorts of things across the VAG range use these, if yours is a later car you will just need carriers, calipers discs and pads.
Windage tray - off a diesel caddy, dirt cheap from VW
Free stuff:
Airbox - rip out the restrictor (front) and warm air feed (back). Cut out the side of the airbox and take the blanking plate out of the O/S wing for lots of cold air.
Timing - check it the old fashioned way (the timing mark lies). It must be perfect and releasing the tensioner tends to knock it out hafl a tooth so trial and error to make it bang on.
Fuel - make sure CO is set nice and high, from memory I think mine went best at 2.5
building on what DrG says about timing, you can get away with running 6-7* advance on the timing combined with super unleaded to make it a little more lively.
a exhaust and manifold will be a good plan. if on a budget just go to HiQ or Longlife and get them to remove the middle and second from rear silencers for more free flowing system- charged me 40quid for the job! A K&N panel filter will help the breathing a bit and butcher the air box (front an wing side only)
depending on what year your 16v is you can get a larger 52mm inlet manifold which gives approx 7hp at top end which is well suited to the track as you will be mostly flat out!
stealth racing offer a WUR (warm up regulator)mod for around 5hp and better fueling accross rev range, combined with a rolling road set up and you can easily and cheaply achive a good 150-160 hp
i ran a 16v on the track a few times and it was largely standard bar stripped out interior and mildly tweeked engine and found it to be surprisingly competitive and incredible fun!!
a exhaust and manifold will be a good plan. if on a budget just go to HiQ or Longlife and get them to remove the middle and second from rear silencers for more free flowing system- charged me 40quid for the job! A K&N panel filter will help the breathing a bit and butcher the air box (front an wing side only)
depending on what year your 16v is you can get a larger 52mm inlet manifold which gives approx 7hp at top end which is well suited to the track as you will be mostly flat out!
stealth racing offer a WUR (warm up regulator)mod for around 5hp and better fueling accross rev range, combined with a rolling road set up and you can easily and cheaply achive a good 150-160 hp
i ran a 16v on the track a few times and it was largely standard bar stripped out interior and mildly tweeked engine and found it to be surprisingly competitive and incredible fun!!
speedyellowrs said:
Thanks Greatgranny! All good gen. I didn't realise polybushes would be so harsh as to make the drive to the track unpleasant! I posted on trackdays forum as well and have been pointed in the direction of northloop and clubgti forums for further info. Thanks for the advice.
This what I've heard but it would also depend on what springs and shocks you are running and tyres/wheels. With plybushes there isn't any give and you can feel everything. It might be ok if the upside is superior handling on track which is nice and smooth. There are guys on ClubGTI and edition38 who know tonnes more than me.
What year is your Mk2?
If its an early one it will have 239mm front discs which I def would want to change for at least the later 256mm ones.
If its a later pne and has the 256mm ones already Id argue that these would be more than sufficient for track use with a decent set of discs and pads.
OMP do a 6 point bolt in cage for circa £300 I think, alhtough you will need to remove the sunroof mechanism and either weld or bolt a panel over the sunroof hole!
A good and well priced suspension setup would be Koni top adjustable dampers and Eibach springs.
As previously said, polybushes are cheap and relatively easy to DIY install.
OMP also do a 2.25" exhaust system in which you can specify how many boxes you want in the system depending on loudness etc...
To be honest though, in my experience unless your running a 4 branch manifold a standard VW exhaust does the job very well.
Engine tuning can get expensive and labour intensive if you go down the route of 2.0L bottom end, cams, head work etc...
A 16v that has been set up by Stealth with the WUR mod, costs £45 per hour or thereabouts and takes about an hour and a half, will make between 150-160bhp and be great fun on track in a well sorted chassis.
If its an early one it will have 239mm front discs which I def would want to change for at least the later 256mm ones.
If its a later pne and has the 256mm ones already Id argue that these would be more than sufficient for track use with a decent set of discs and pads.
OMP do a 6 point bolt in cage for circa £300 I think, alhtough you will need to remove the sunroof mechanism and either weld or bolt a panel over the sunroof hole!
A good and well priced suspension setup would be Koni top adjustable dampers and Eibach springs.
As previously said, polybushes are cheap and relatively easy to DIY install.
OMP also do a 2.25" exhaust system in which you can specify how many boxes you want in the system depending on loudness etc...
To be honest though, in my experience unless your running a 4 branch manifold a standard VW exhaust does the job very well.
Engine tuning can get expensive and labour intensive if you go down the route of 2.0L bottom end, cams, head work etc...
A 16v that has been set up by Stealth with the WUR mod, costs £45 per hour or thereabouts and takes about an hour and a half, will make between 150-160bhp and be great fun on track in a well sorted chassis.
It's a '90 big bumper model so should have the bigger discs. As you say, engine mods seem pretty pricey for what is achievable, so will probably leave well alone and concentrate on getting the chassis and braking right. Didn't realise I'd have to weld up the sunroof to fit the cage... bo
ox
Thanks for the advice
oxThanks for the advice
That was 3 of my mates experiences with the OMP cage when they fitted them to their race cars.
The sunroof cage and mechanism interfere with the main hoop at the b pillar. Funniest thing was that my mates highlighted this to the race series organisers, my mates suggested that the sunroof be removed but the organiser initially didnt want this to happen, instead they wanted us to cut the legs on the cages down and them re-weld them to the foot plates! Idiots. Onyl when everybody started complaining about the series recommened OMP cage not fitting did they opt for the sun roof removal idea!
I know Sparco do one, not sur eif that has the same sunroof issues.
Think the brakes changed over in 88, when they went from the quarter light windows to the single piece ones, but not 100%, but anyway yours will def have the bigger brakes. Id go with something like Ferodo DS3000s or EBC Yellowstuffs, both my mates who run 16v in the race series use these and are pleased with the performance. Other mate has an 8v and uses Mintex 1144s.
The sunroof cage and mechanism interfere with the main hoop at the b pillar. Funniest thing was that my mates highlighted this to the race series organisers, my mates suggested that the sunroof be removed but the organiser initially didnt want this to happen, instead they wanted us to cut the legs on the cages down and them re-weld them to the foot plates! Idiots. Onyl when everybody started complaining about the series recommened OMP cage not fitting did they opt for the sun roof removal idea!
I know Sparco do one, not sur eif that has the same sunroof issues.
Think the brakes changed over in 88, when they went from the quarter light windows to the single piece ones, but not 100%, but anyway yours will def have the bigger brakes. Id go with something like Ferodo DS3000s or EBC Yellowstuffs, both my mates who run 16v in the race series use these and are pleased with the performance. Other mate has an 8v and uses Mintex 1144s.
On the subject of a windage tray, you can get them from GSF. The one you want is for a Mk3 Diesel, it incorporates the windage tray and sump gasket, costs about £30.
Whilst the sump is off you could also weld or get someone to weld a few baffles in, to stop the oil from sloshing around and combined with the windage tray stops the oil being picked up by the crank.
Whilst the sump is off you could also weld or get someone to weld a few baffles in, to stop the oil from sloshing around and combined with the windage tray stops the oil being picked up by the crank.
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