AUDI A4 2008 CLUTCH SLIPPING
Discussion
ANYONE HAVE ANY PROBLEMS WITH NEW AUDI A4 2L TDI CLUTCH SLIPPING AFTER LESS THAN 5000 MILES?
INITIALLY I NOTICED THE CLUTCH SLIPPING DURING 3RD-4TH OR 4TH-5TH GEAR CHANGE.
MY DEALER REPORTED NO FAULTS.
NOW THE CLUTCH SLIPS DURING ACCELERATION IN 3RD-4TH-5TH-6TH GEAR
ANYONE ELSE EXPERIENCED THIS AT SUCH A LOW MILAGE. HAVE BEEN TOLD THERE IS A CLUTCH DAMPER FITTED TO THIS MODEL, COULD THIS BE THE CAUSE OF THE PROBLEM?
ETA it isn't my car and a friend logged in with my name to post a question, hence the capital letters
INITIALLY I NOTICED THE CLUTCH SLIPPING DURING 3RD-4TH OR 4TH-5TH GEAR CHANGE.
MY DEALER REPORTED NO FAULTS.
NOW THE CLUTCH SLIPS DURING ACCELERATION IN 3RD-4TH-5TH-6TH GEAR
ANYONE ELSE EXPERIENCED THIS AT SUCH A LOW MILAGE. HAVE BEEN TOLD THERE IS A CLUTCH DAMPER FITTED TO THIS MODEL, COULD THIS BE THE CAUSE OF THE PROBLEM?
ETA it isn't my car and a friend logged in with my name to post a question, hence the capital letters
Edited by TOPTON on Saturday 19th December 12:54
2008 will be 8K also know as B8 model. (unless its a very late reg)
One of our sales men had one slip badly one day, parked it, we tested it later and found no fault, he shouted a bit and then tried the car and said, your right its not doing it now.
He had overheated the clutch in trafic, once very hot its start to slip. Its done 5,000 miles since and been faultless.
If yours keeps slipping when you get it back, take it in again and demonstrate the fault to a technician on road test. If your overheating it they might not change it, if he can see your doing nothing wrong and its slipping you'll get a new one under waranty, and I would think an appology for not fixing it first time.
First time fix is a big thing at Audi at the moment.
One of our sales men had one slip badly one day, parked it, we tested it later and found no fault, he shouted a bit and then tried the car and said, your right its not doing it now.
He had overheated the clutch in trafic, once very hot its start to slip. Its done 5,000 miles since and been faultless.
If yours keeps slipping when you get it back, take it in again and demonstrate the fault to a technician on road test. If your overheating it they might not change it, if he can see your doing nothing wrong and its slipping you'll get a new one under waranty, and I would think an appology for not fixing it first time.
First time fix is a big thing at Audi at the moment.
certainly not heating the clutch up, that would be caused by riding the pedal would it not?
When it first started doing it, it was as if the cluch wasn't releasing properly. Then it would be fine. But now it has done it so much that the clutch is sliping under accelaration and not just during gear changes.
Popping into the dealer is not so easy as they are about 90 minutes away.
When it first started doing it, it was as if the cluch wasn't releasing properly. Then it would be fine. But now it has done it so much that the clutch is sliping under accelaration and not just during gear changes.
Popping into the dealer is not so easy as they are about 90 minutes away.
Yes overheating usually come from riding the clucth, or slipping it on pull away/hill starts that sort of thing.
Given the problem and distance to the dealership, my best advise is, give the service department a ring and book the car in for two days, when its convienient for you, make sure you tell them you require a loan car. This way you dont have to drive 90miles, show them the fault and then get sent away again as all the loan cars are booked out, no free workshop time etc.
You could request one of there drivers collect and deliver the car, saving you the 90miles drive, but then you dont get to demostrate the fault and they could say, no fault found again.
Tell them what time you'll be dropping the car in and ask them to make sure a technician is availed to come up the road with you, so you can demonstrate the fault.
Maybe delicatly point out although they couldnt fault it before, it is still faulty now its getting progresivly worse.
Is that the nearest dealer, it can go to any Audi dealer doesnt have to go to the one your bought it from.
Given the problem and distance to the dealership, my best advise is, give the service department a ring and book the car in for two days, when its convienient for you, make sure you tell them you require a loan car. This way you dont have to drive 90miles, show them the fault and then get sent away again as all the loan cars are booked out, no free workshop time etc.
You could request one of there drivers collect and deliver the car, saving you the 90miles drive, but then you dont get to demostrate the fault and they could say, no fault found again.
Tell them what time you'll be dropping the car in and ask them to make sure a technician is availed to come up the road with you, so you can demonstrate the fault.
Maybe delicatly point out although they couldnt fault it before, it is still faulty now its getting progresivly worse.
Is that the nearest dealer, it can go to any Audi dealer doesnt have to go to the one your bought it from.
Living on the west coast of cumbria, that is the nearest 'trustworthy' dealer.
Think mate said they kept it for a week last time and reported no faults but did say something along the lines of--we've got one that we can make it do that, seems to be a feature of the model.
Strange comment I thought, but I think he is now going to wait till it breaks and get them to pick it up. A bit inconvinient but seems the best way
Think mate said they kept it for a week last time and reported no faults but did say something along the lines of--we've got one that we can make it do that, seems to be a feature of the model.
Strange comment I thought, but I think he is now going to wait till it breaks and get them to pick it up. A bit inconvinient but seems the best way
IMy Audi A4 TDi was purchased new in April 2012, has been driven almost exclusively on motorways ever since and, in fact, has spent most of its time covered up and stored in a barn ever since. It is in absolutely terrific condition and has been great to drive but, with just 49,300 miles on the clock, I have suddenly found the clutch slipping when climbing hills.
I cannot believe that a clutch would wear out so early (unless the driver was resting his foot on the clutch pedal or, possibly, driving slowly in very heavy traffic all the time). I phoned Audi who seemed to want me to believe that a clutch wearing out at 49,000 miles was quite normal (!) and, before giving them the brush-off, I asked them to provide prices for the necessary work... (replace clutch and flywheel.. because the flywheel will inevitably have suffered overheating)
Unsurprisingly perhaps, the Audi dealer was quoting absolutely rip-off prices as follows :-
All-in price to replace the clutch (Parts and labour) £ 899 inc VAT
Additional charge to replace the flywheel £ 1,056 inc VAT PLUS about an extra hour's labour.
Total verbal estimate - £1,955 (inc VAT) plus approx one hour's labour for the flywheel.
I do not anticipate going to an Audi agent for this work, since I have reliable mechanics who charge sensible prices and can undoubtedly buy in the parts far more reasonably, made on the same production line but possibly without the Audi logo on them.
From what I have seen online there are numerous instances of Audi A4 clutches burning out at a low mileage, although, until now, I was not aware of the issue. Given the reputation Audi cultivate for high quality engineering ("!Vorsprung durch Teknik" etc...this seems to be almost as crazy as was installing the scandalous dodgy software designed to defeat emissions tests.
Am I right ? Is this a really common thing ? How long should an A4 clutch last if well-driven ? Are the non-Audi-labelled parts good quality and what is a reasonable price to pay for them ?
I cannot believe that a clutch would wear out so early (unless the driver was resting his foot on the clutch pedal or, possibly, driving slowly in very heavy traffic all the time). I phoned Audi who seemed to want me to believe that a clutch wearing out at 49,000 miles was quite normal (!) and, before giving them the brush-off, I asked them to provide prices for the necessary work... (replace clutch and flywheel.. because the flywheel will inevitably have suffered overheating)
Unsurprisingly perhaps, the Audi dealer was quoting absolutely rip-off prices as follows :-
All-in price to replace the clutch (Parts and labour) £ 899 inc VAT
Additional charge to replace the flywheel £ 1,056 inc VAT PLUS about an extra hour's labour.
Total verbal estimate - £1,955 (inc VAT) plus approx one hour's labour for the flywheel.
I do not anticipate going to an Audi agent for this work, since I have reliable mechanics who charge sensible prices and can undoubtedly buy in the parts far more reasonably, made on the same production line but possibly without the Audi logo on them.
From what I have seen online there are numerous instances of Audi A4 clutches burning out at a low mileage, although, until now, I was not aware of the issue. Given the reputation Audi cultivate for high quality engineering ("!Vorsprung durch Teknik" etc...this seems to be almost as crazy as was installing the scandalous dodgy software designed to defeat emissions tests.
Am I right ? Is this a really common thing ? How long should an A4 clutch last if well-driven ? Are the non-Audi-labelled parts good quality and what is a reasonable price to pay for them ?
Mine is on 132k on its original clutch. About 40-50% will be motorway miles, but its certainly not babied anywhere. Driven as you would expect a mid 20's lad to drive it. Sometimes used for towing as well, so overall pretty impressed. 2010 2.0Tdi A4. Its the 180 brake if that makes any difference.
Search online for the parts via GSF, Eurocar Parts or reputable tuners and you'll find clutch kits with the Dual Mass Flywheel (DMF) for less than £1k. Pay a little more for a known brand too (eg Sachs). I've used JabbaSport in the distant past for a 2004 Leon PD150 (different engine etc but similar technology and format for the clutch) and they were excellent with the Sachs clutch I went for. They do supply parts if they are too far away and any trusted garage can fit it. You might even find similar items nearer to your location. Don't just go for the very cheapest you can buy or you will be doing it again in the not too distant future - its a false economy (voice of experience!).
If the clutch has suddenly gone, I'd check the operation of it first as it does seem a little early (depending on how its been driven, how much weight its towed, how often it sits in stop/start traffic etc). If there is no oil contamination in the clutch, the DMF may not need replacing. When its all apart, you could compare old and new and potentially send the new one back if unused (check returns policy!).
If the clutch has suddenly gone, I'd check the operation of it first as it does seem a little early (depending on how its been driven, how much weight its towed, how often it sits in stop/start traffic etc). If there is no oil contamination in the clutch, the DMF may not need replacing. When its all apart, you could compare old and new and potentially send the new one back if unused (check returns policy!).
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