Audi TT: Clutch Change
Discussion
PH cherry popped 
Had my TT for near on 4 years now and she's been bloody brillant, up until last year when the cambelt failed
Cue 8 bent exhaust valves whih tbh was a let off. So stripped it down and sent head off for new valves, stem seals, clean and pressure test. New water pump (I spent a good hour fishing out 3/4 of the plastic fins from the block), cambelt, tensioner, rollers, etc and she good as gold.
That was 4K ago, and to be fair getting 109K out of a cambelt is nothing short of a miracle. Sounds like I'm a right tight/lazy sod leaving it 109k before considering cambelt right? Well, the so-called trader I purchased it from 4 years ago said I know the clutch is slipping (I actually didn't notice it on the noddy test drive I took it on) so i'll replace it. 60-somthing K on the clock so I ask that the cambelt be done at the same time as the lump gotta come out anyway. No problem sir.
So, now, clutch has started slipping. Nothing serious as its under heavy load + boost (think 5th gear @ 40 and foot down). I'm nursing it at the moment and its behaving
So, need to get this done in the next couple of months as I'm on a 1K commute per month. As I have no access to a lift, I'm planning to take bumper, rad, etc off and pull the lump out. Shouldn't be too much hassle, so on to a couple of questions:
As these have dual mass flywheel's, I have "read" that the flywheel needs to be changed along with the clutch. From what I have read, it has something to do with the heat that is generated when the clutch slips killing the springs in the dm flywheel. Can anyone confirm this?
Sump clear out
Oil line to turbo flush
Replace Clutch slave + master cyliner
Might as well do the Haldex oil and filter as its up
General clean of engine, bay, etc
Anything else I should be doing as the lump is out?
Any tips for this job?
Ta
Had my TT for near on 4 years now and she's been bloody brillant, up until last year when the cambelt failed
Cue 8 bent exhaust valves whih tbh was a let off. So stripped it down and sent head off for new valves, stem seals, clean and pressure test. New water pump (I spent a good hour fishing out 3/4 of the plastic fins from the block), cambelt, tensioner, rollers, etc and she good as gold.That was 4K ago, and to be fair getting 109K out of a cambelt is nothing short of a miracle. Sounds like I'm a right tight/lazy sod leaving it 109k before considering cambelt right? Well, the so-called trader I purchased it from 4 years ago said I know the clutch is slipping (I actually didn't notice it on the noddy test drive I took it on) so i'll replace it. 60-somthing K on the clock so I ask that the cambelt be done at the same time as the lump gotta come out anyway. No problem sir.
So, now, clutch has started slipping. Nothing serious as its under heavy load + boost (think 5th gear @ 40 and foot down). I'm nursing it at the moment and its behaving
So, need to get this done in the next couple of months as I'm on a 1K commute per month. As I have no access to a lift, I'm planning to take bumper, rad, etc off and pull the lump out. Shouldn't be too much hassle, so on to a couple of questions:
As these have dual mass flywheel's, I have "read" that the flywheel needs to be changed along with the clutch. From what I have read, it has something to do with the heat that is generated when the clutch slips killing the springs in the dm flywheel. Can anyone confirm this?
Sump clear out
Oil line to turbo flush
Replace Clutch slave + master cyliner
Might as well do the Haldex oil and filter as its up
General clean of engine, bay, etc
Anything else I should be doing as the lump is out?
Any tips for this job?
Ta
I wouldnt bother doing the DMF unless you can see somthing wrong with it, or its been vibrating.
I definatly wouldnt do the clutch master cylinder.
Not even sure I'd bother removing the engine, But I'd be doing it one a lift, without one, the whole lump out might be easier. Have to say Cleaning out the sump and turbo oil feed is a great Idea.
Youi need a mobile A/C guy to recover and recharge the gas if your taking the front panel off.
I definatly wouldnt do the clutch master cylinder.
Not even sure I'd bother removing the engine, But I'd be doing it one a lift, without one, the whole lump out might be easier. Have to say Cleaning out the sump and turbo oil feed is a great Idea.
Youi need a mobile A/C guy to recover and recharge the gas if your taking the front panel off.
Thanks TT
What should I be looking for in terms of play when I strip out the dmf? I'm really basing the change of the dmf on what I have read elsewhere? Also, how come not to bother with the slave m/c? Location and pig-of-a-job factor?
One more question I forgot to mention, 114K on the clock, should I be looking at anything turbo wise? Still another year on tick to cover yet and tbh, I'm quite fond of the car so it's not going anywhere for the foreseeable.
What should I be looking for in terms of play when I strip out the dmf? I'm really basing the change of the dmf on what I have read elsewhere? Also, how come not to bother with the slave m/c? Location and pig-of-a-job factor?
One more question I forgot to mention, 114K on the clock, should I be looking at anything turbo wise? Still another year on tick to cover yet and tbh, I'm quite fond of the car so it's not going anywhere for the foreseeable.
BTW TT, I have just read your thread about Oil Pressure: http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Like I say before, 114K on the clock, sump clear clean, anything else oil wise you would be doing?
Like I say before, 114K on the clock, sump clear clean, anything else oil wise you would be doing?
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