MkII Golf GTi 16v
Discussion
First of all, I must get my shame out of the way. For the past 4 years I've had a 1987 Helios Blue small bumper GTi 16v sat in my garage doing diddly squat. I had other stuff on the go and therefore it sat forlorn, for which I am sorry.
Due to a house move it now has to have something done with it so I've got a mechanic contact to take a look, with the instruction to get it running and Mot'd again.
First question: What will be fooked if it has been sat for that time?
Second question: What will it be worth when running again? How are values going for this type of car (and will it ever get to Mk 1 levels?) - I appreciate it's not an Oak Green big bumper which seems to be the Holy Grail.
Third question: If I do keep it I would like to keep it standard looking as there apear to be few stock looking ones left around. What mods are suggested for it as a quick (ish) daily driver?
Due to a house move it now has to have something done with it so I've got a mechanic contact to take a look, with the instruction to get it running and Mot'd again.
First question: What will be fooked if it has been sat for that time?
Second question: What will it be worth when running again? How are values going for this type of car (and will it ever get to Mk 1 levels?) - I appreciate it's not an Oak Green big bumper which seems to be the Holy Grail.
Third question: If I do keep it I would like to keep it standard looking as there apear to be few stock looking ones left around. What mods are suggested for it as a quick (ish) daily driver?
if sat with the handbrake on, definately siezed rear brakes...
value?
all depends on condition, get it cleaned, serviced and mot'd (taxed?) do a few miles to throw up any niggles, sort them an get soem high quality pics up here...
anything from scrap value to 2k+ for a minter at the mo.
if you want rid in its current state, get some pics up, might know a few people interested.
for daily driver mods:
good quality suspension refresh - coilovers/shocks an springs, fresh bushes/polybushes, new engine mounts.
good quality rubber
decent air filer
fresh pads and discs - maybe upgrade to 280mm G60 items.
manifold-tip exhaust system
and if you have the bottle, a 9a 2.0 bottom end.
value?
all depends on condition, get it cleaned, serviced and mot'd (taxed?) do a few miles to throw up any niggles, sort them an get soem high quality pics up here...
anything from scrap value to 2k+ for a minter at the mo.
if you want rid in its current state, get some pics up, might know a few people interested.
for daily driver mods:
good quality suspension refresh - coilovers/shocks an springs, fresh bushes/polybushes, new engine mounts.
good quality rubber
decent air filer
fresh pads and discs - maybe upgrade to 280mm G60 items.
manifold-tip exhaust system
and if you have the bottle, a 9a 2.0 bottom end.
id say the most important thing is the condition of the bodywork and shell in general. The thing with mk2s is it is very easy and cheap to get new interiors, new engines and running gear but bodywork can cost a lot more.
On 16vs that havent run in ages there can be potential problems with the KJET system. Firstly fresh petrol/fuel/oil/coolant and filters are essential if you want it to run sweet again. You will most likely find that the metering head is not distributing fuel to the injectors but fuel will get as far as the metering head fine - there is a 19 or 22mm bolt on the front of the metering unit - pull this out and lubricate the spring on the end. Tap the top of the metering head with a hammer to try and release the pin inside that determines which injector gets fuel. If this fails you may have to remove the air box and manually lift the metering flap whilst someone cranks the engine to get it to run - 99% of the time once the engine runs for a couple seconds it will be fine as fuel lubricates the internals.
As JB says - rear callipers and hand brake cables seize up - only cost £40-50 each for callipers and £20 for handbrake cables an easy enough to fit.
Another issue with cars that have been standing a while is the bushes tend to die, on mk2s the front lower wishbones can be bought brand new with all the bushes in for £15-20 which is only a couple quid more than buying bushes seperately.
Other problems ive had with mk2s that have been stood up for a while is sometimes the electrical relays and fuse box takes a while to wake up, usually no indicators or brake lights - bizare i know but its affected a few of my mk2s in the past.
You shouldnt have too much trouble selling it if thats what you want to do, in fact im keen to get another project mk2 soon.
Dave
On 16vs that havent run in ages there can be potential problems with the KJET system. Firstly fresh petrol/fuel/oil/coolant and filters are essential if you want it to run sweet again. You will most likely find that the metering head is not distributing fuel to the injectors but fuel will get as far as the metering head fine - there is a 19 or 22mm bolt on the front of the metering unit - pull this out and lubricate the spring on the end. Tap the top of the metering head with a hammer to try and release the pin inside that determines which injector gets fuel. If this fails you may have to remove the air box and manually lift the metering flap whilst someone cranks the engine to get it to run - 99% of the time once the engine runs for a couple seconds it will be fine as fuel lubricates the internals.
As JB says - rear callipers and hand brake cables seize up - only cost £40-50 each for callipers and £20 for handbrake cables an easy enough to fit.
Another issue with cars that have been standing a while is the bushes tend to die, on mk2s the front lower wishbones can be bought brand new with all the bushes in for £15-20 which is only a couple quid more than buying bushes seperately.
Other problems ive had with mk2s that have been stood up for a while is sometimes the electrical relays and fuse box takes a while to wake up, usually no indicators or brake lights - bizare i know but its affected a few of my mk2s in the past.
You shouldnt have too much trouble selling it if thats what you want to do, in fact im keen to get another project mk2 soon.
Dave
Thanks Dave, that's very helpful too.
Funnily enough it was the electrical problems that led to it being laid up in the first place.
I'm just waiting fro quote from mechanic for what works are required then I'll get him to crack on. The problems he's identified over the weekend are the brakes (he's sorting Corrado discs out) and the fuelling as one of the pipes had corroded and started spewing fuel everywhere.
Funnily enough it was the electrical problems that led to it being laid up in the first place.
I'm just waiting fro quote from mechanic for what works are required then I'll get him to crack on. The problems he's identified over the weekend are the brakes (he's sorting Corrado discs out) and the fuelling as one of the pipes had corroded and started spewing fuel everywhere.
YO.
to go 280mm front brakes the best way to do it is to find a Seat Ibiza cupra/cordoba/toledo 2.0 16v or a mk3 golf VR6 and get the callipers off these. Dont be suckered into paying stupid prices for G60 golf 280mm conversion kits!
whilst upgrading brakes, late mk3 VR6/GTI 16v callipers are alloy construction and have a better handbrake mechanism but fit to mk2 brake lines. If you use mk4 callipers you need to buy Goodridge conversion brake lines at circa £30-40.
In all fairness though, in less you are planning to up the power a fair bit 256mm discs and decent pads are a fine set of stoppers. Im currently running brembo dics, Ferodo DS pads, mk3 callipers all round, 23mm MC (from a 2.0 16v passat) new lines, refurbed servo and have no problems stopping. That little lot set me back around £150 callipers (brand new) £30 MC, £40 pads and £10 for seals for servo. which is less than what some people sell second hand 280mm front discs/calliper set ups!!
dave
to go 280mm front brakes the best way to do it is to find a Seat Ibiza cupra/cordoba/toledo 2.0 16v or a mk3 golf VR6 and get the callipers off these. Dont be suckered into paying stupid prices for G60 golf 280mm conversion kits!
whilst upgrading brakes, late mk3 VR6/GTI 16v callipers are alloy construction and have a better handbrake mechanism but fit to mk2 brake lines. If you use mk4 callipers you need to buy Goodridge conversion brake lines at circa £30-40.
In all fairness though, in less you are planning to up the power a fair bit 256mm discs and decent pads are a fine set of stoppers. Im currently running brembo dics, Ferodo DS pads, mk3 callipers all round, 23mm MC (from a 2.0 16v passat) new lines, refurbed servo and have no problems stopping. That little lot set me back around £150 callipers (brand new) £30 MC, £40 pads and £10 for seals for servo. which is less than what some people sell second hand 280mm front discs/calliper set ups!!
dave
If its a sensible mileage example with good service history, low owners and original it will easily be worth north of £2k.
Clean original examples are always in demand. Buyers will be older who had them in their youth and want a sensible but fun weekend car.
If you are keeping it just keep on top of things. They are getting on a bit now and need a little TLC to keep in top condition.
Clean original examples are always in demand. Buyers will be older who had them in their youth and want a sensible but fun weekend car.
If you are keeping it just keep on top of things. They are getting on a bit now and need a little TLC to keep in top condition.
..Update.
Not as bad as I thought. Needs filters, spark plugs, brake discs and pads straight away. No doubt someone like GSF or Euro Car PArts will do these. I'll put some new tyres on too, and will do cambelt (if it has one rather than a chain - I am a bit thick when it comes to these).
As for other parts I may well upgrade these once I'm happy that the car runs ok.
The only bit where I'm struggling is sourcing the braided fuel lines which run from by the inlet to the injectors. What is the correct name for these and where is it best to source them from?
Thanks for all the tips so far.
PS it's one with the 'right' wipers.
Not as bad as I thought. Needs filters, spark plugs, brake discs and pads straight away. No doubt someone like GSF or Euro Car PArts will do these. I'll put some new tyres on too, and will do cambelt (if it has one rather than a chain - I am a bit thick when it comes to these).
As for other parts I may well upgrade these once I'm happy that the car runs ok.
The only bit where I'm struggling is sourcing the braided fuel lines which run from by the inlet to the injectors. What is the correct name for these and where is it best to source them from?
Thanks for all the tips so far.
PS it's one with the 'right' wipers.
Those braided fuel lines are actually quite rare and hard to get hold of. Only K-Jet golfs 8v + 16v up to 1986 came with these fitted. Later 16vs have solid metal lines with rubber end peices as these are far cheaper. No doubt i have more than a couple of sets of rigid lines but try looking on vwgolfmk2.co.uk, clubgti, edition38, as someone might be breaking a car with them.
dave
dave
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