Passat 130 PD - how long will it last
Discussion
I know it's a bit of an open question but I have a 53 plate B5.5 Passat TDi 130 PD with 114 000 miles on it and due to circumstances have decided to "run it into the ground" to save some money.
With this in mind I'd like it to last a while yet so generally I was wondering how many more miles I'll be able to squeeze out of the old girl!
It does most of its mileage sat in 6th on the motorway cruising, I service it well and I don't abuse it in any way.
Right now it still feels great and the car is in excellent condition.
So have any VW experts got experience of astranomical mileages on their PD diesels? This is my first VW diesel and am impressed with it so far.
With this in mind I'd like it to last a while yet so generally I was wondering how many more miles I'll be able to squeeze out of the old girl!
It does most of its mileage sat in 6th on the motorway cruising, I service it well and I don't abuse it in any way.
Right now it still feels great and the car is in excellent condition.
So have any VW experts got experience of astranomical mileages on their PD diesels? This is my first VW diesel and am impressed with it so far.
To be honest, keep on top of maintenance and drive respectfully and really it should "in theory" just keep on going forever. Probably clutch/flywheel will be first to go but the core engine I would expect to keep on trucking for ages. Depending on the age of the car, if an early PD, I would factor in a cam/tappet/shells change (circa £400-£600 depending on where you go) as the early PDs suffer from cam wear due to the PD lifters/tappets not being that great. Newer ones are black-topped (updated part) and much tougher.
At the mileage it's on now, I would imagine you will have a good few 10's of thousand miles yet. Mine was fine until about 140k, when the parts started to require replacement. 2002 reg and every service done on time and at VW.
From then on, it was a regular biggish bills, thankfully mostly covered by an AA warrenty, but by 175k, I'd spent about £2500 on repairs/replacements, so I got shut. It's fairly well noted on here, that whilst modern diesels, do indeed go to high mileges, a few with little more than regular oil changes, the potential for high costs to get there is quite usually the norm. With an injector costing £500 each, and a turbo fitment at going on £1k, it quickly just becomes a catch 22 of whether the costs are realistic, often outpricing a 10 year old car.
From then on, it was a regular biggish bills, thankfully mostly covered by an AA warrenty, but by 175k, I'd spent about £2500 on repairs/replacements, so I got shut. It's fairly well noted on here, that whilst modern diesels, do indeed go to high mileges, a few with little more than regular oil changes, the potential for high costs to get there is quite usually the norm. With an injector costing £500 each, and a turbo fitment at going on £1k, it quickly just becomes a catch 22 of whether the costs are realistic, often outpricing a 10 year old car.
I have a 2000 year PD, only difference is it has the 115 engine with the 5 speed auto box. 312,000 on the clock and few problems with mine, so you should be fine.
In the family we also have an Audi A4 TDI auto on an R plate, with the older non-PD 110 engine, that has done 230,000 ish I think.
In the family we also have an Audi A4 TDI auto on an R plate, with the older non-PD 110 engine, that has done 230,000 ish I think.
icepop said:
At the mileage it's on now, I would imagine you will have a good few 10's of thousand miles yet. Mine was fine until about 140k, when the parts started to require replacement. 2002 reg and every service done on time and at VW.
From then on, it was a regular biggish bills, thankfully mostly covered by an AA warrenty, but by 175k, I'd spent about £2500 on repairs/replacements, so I got shut. It's fairly well noted on here, that whilst modern diesels, do indeed go to high mileges, a few with little more than regular oil changes, the potential for high costs to get there is quite usually the norm. With an injector costing £500 each, and a turbo fitment at going on £1k, it quickly just becomes a catch 22 of whether the costs are realistic, often outpricing a 10 year old car.
This is the scenario I don't want!From then on, it was a regular biggish bills, thankfully mostly covered by an AA warrenty, but by 175k, I'd spent about £2500 on repairs/replacements, so I got shut. It's fairly well noted on here, that whilst modern diesels, do indeed go to high mileges, a few with little more than regular oil changes, the potential for high costs to get there is quite usually the norm. With an injector costing £500 each, and a turbo fitment at going on £1k, it quickly just becomes a catch 22 of whether the costs are realistic, often outpricing a 10 year old car.
Are the turbos' prone to going around that sort of mileage?
I've owned a few turbo petrol cars and always allow them to idle a bit before shutting them down, is this the same for diesels? I do it anyway through habit!
cptsideways said:
Dr G said:
You'll be bored of rebuilding the suspension before the motor gives up (half a million miles is probably doable).
ThisBalljoints/shocks/wheel bearings etc will be regular from here on in, however they are cheap from GSF & Euro car parts & the like.
aka_kerrly said:
interesting as i've found that the GSF/ECP ball joints an wheel bearings don't last well at all compared to genuine VW parts.
Was going to say the same. The cheap ones are rubbish compared to the genuine VAG ones and they aren't exactly great. On my second replacement set here. Get good at getting that f
king pinch bolt out now.Rammy76 said:
icepop said:
At the mileage it's on now, I would imagine you will have a good few 10's of thousand miles yet. Mine was fine until about 140k, when the parts started to require replacement. 2002 reg and every service done on time and at VW.
From then on, it was a regular biggish bills, thankfully mostly covered by an AA warrenty, but by 175k, I'd spent about £2500 on repairs/replacements, so I got shut. It's fairly well noted on here, that whilst modern diesels, do indeed go to high mileges, a few with little more than regular oil changes, the potential for high costs to get there is quite usually the norm. With an injector costing £500 each, and a turbo fitment at going on £1k, it quickly just becomes a catch 22 of whether the costs are realistic, often outpricing a 10 year old car.
This is the scenario I don't want!From then on, it was a regular biggish bills, thankfully mostly covered by an AA warrenty, but by 175k, I'd spent about £2500 on repairs/replacements, so I got shut. It's fairly well noted on here, that whilst modern diesels, do indeed go to high mileges, a few with little more than regular oil changes, the potential for high costs to get there is quite usually the norm. With an injector costing £500 each, and a turbo fitment at going on £1k, it quickly just becomes a catch 22 of whether the costs are realistic, often outpricing a 10 year old car.
Are the turbos' prone to going around that sort of mileage?
I've owned a few turbo petrol cars and always allow them to idle a bit before shutting them down, is this the same for diesels? I do it anyway through habit!
Dual mass flywheels/camshafts/followers/clutches/high pressure fuel pumps, are all in the preserve of the post 150k modern diesel, regardless of make, and all will cost over £500 each to remedy. Look at the relative forums, the problems have always been there, but are really starting to show now these engines are reaching 10 years old. You own a 2001 Passat TDI that needs a new tandem fuel pump, at the same point as a full service and cam belt/water pump change, and you'll be looking at £1100 from an Indie, or about 80% of the cost of the car.
Edited by icepop on Friday 29th April 03:15
An occasional HARD thrashing is very good at removing soot deposits. 
Once it gets too far though the turbo needs removing and splitting apart and cleaning up (not as bad a job as it sounds for someone with fair spanner knowledge 
)
If you'd like to keep it running well, remove the EGR connection pipe at the turbo end, cut out 2 slivers of beer can in the shape of the hole/2 bolt pattern of the connection on the manifold, then reattach. The EGR will continue to move, but no exhaust gases will come through. These gases on high milers cause clagging of the inlet manifold - much like eating fatty foods will clag up your large intestine. picture to prove below. Look at original/new amount of room for turbo boost air to move...
YUCK!
In comparison, you could your dinner off my intake. No EGR for 5+ years now.
Once it gets too far though the turbo needs removing and splitting apart and cleaning up (not as bad a job as it sounds for someone with fair spanner knowledge )If you'd like to keep it running well, remove the EGR connection pipe at the turbo end, cut out 2 slivers of beer can in the shape of the hole/2 bolt pattern of the connection on the manifold, then reattach. The EGR will continue to move, but no exhaust gases will come through. These gases on high milers cause clagging of the inlet manifold - much like eating fatty foods will clag up your large intestine. picture to prove below. Look at original/new amount of room for turbo boost air to move...
YUCK!
In comparison, you could your dinner off my intake. No EGR for 5+ years now.
TDIfurby said:
An occasional HARD thrashing is very good at removing soot deposits. Once it gets too far though the turbo needs removing and splitting apart and cleaning up (not as bad a job as it sounds for someone with fair spanner knowledge )
If you'd like to keep it running well, remove the EGR connection pipe at the turbo end, cut out 2 slivers of beer can in the shape of the hole/2 bolt pattern of the connection on the manifold, then reattach. The EGR will continue to move, but no exhaust gases will come through. These gases on high milers cause clagging of the inlet manifold - much like eating fatty foods will clag up your large intestine. picture to prove below. Look at original/new amount of room for turbo boost air to move...
YUCK!
In comparison, you could your dinner off my intake. No EGR for 5+ years now.
I have one of these and while i dont drive it often when i do i really enjoy driving it. My wife uses it most days and she loves it to so we have decided to keep it for another 2/3 years at least. Mine has only done 77k since 2003 and runs very nicely. i have noticed when i get in it to clear it out every now and then it kicks out loads of black s Once it gets too far though the turbo needs removing and splitting apart and cleaning up (not as bad a job as it sounds for someone with fair spanner knowledge )If you'd like to keep it running well, remove the EGR connection pipe at the turbo end, cut out 2 slivers of beer can in the shape of the hole/2 bolt pattern of the connection on the manifold, then reattach. The EGR will continue to move, but no exhaust gases will come through. These gases on high milers cause clagging of the inlet manifold - much like eating fatty foods will clag up your large intestine. picture to prove below. Look at original/new amount of room for turbo boost air to move...
YUCK!
In comparison, you could your dinner off my intake. No EGR for 5+ years now.
t for the first few full throttle runs it then clears after 4/5 times.I have considered doing what you have done however i wondered where does all that crap go? Surely it must back up in the breathers maybe causing another problem?
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