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wildeep

Original Poster:

362 posts

278 months

Saturday 22nd May 2004
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Having a problem with starting the griff at the moment, switch immobiliser off and turn key but starter does not turn over, fuel pump is priming ok. Voltage gauge is reading about 13V, if i turn the lights on and try and start the lights do not dim, leading me to believe that the starter is not trying to draw any current, so it cant be the usual sticky solenoid problem can it?. thinking it might be a proble with the ignition barrel/switch, is there a simple way to test this at all?.

starmist

1,052 posts

271 months

Sunday 23rd May 2004
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On the contrary, I reckon it is the starter solenoid. Had exactly the same thing happen to me last weekend. The solenoid doesn't pull much current so your lights won't dim, but if the solenoid's knackered, the starter won't be pulling any current, which would dim your lights. See if you can get a multimeter on the solenoid to see if it is pulling a little current.

You could get the mallet on it to see if it frees it off, or go for broke and change the starter. See previous thread for good sources of cheap new / exchange units.

Good luck!

andy43

13,134 posts

283 months

Sunday 23rd May 2004
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wildeep

Original Poster:

362 posts

278 months

Sunday 23rd May 2004
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Seems to be OK now, would make sense it being the starter motor as it happened after a full day racing around Goodwood circuit so it must have got pretty hot. Worth changing for £50 to save getting stranded somewhere i guess.

starmist

1,052 posts

271 months

Sunday 23rd May 2004
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You want to make sure your battery is good as well. On my old (knackered) battery, it wouldn't start if the fans were running.

david beer

3,982 posts

296 months

Monday 24th May 2004
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I know i have said it before, but. The starter solenoid will "consume" 11 amps, due to the wiring and lack of Range Rover relay it may only "consume" 6 amps. Thats like giving a headlight half power, so when the starter is hot and sticky, it needs the full monty.So if the battery is poor or the fans are running, its even worse. Simply test at the ignition switch to see if its the case.
Cured my hot start, you can do it for a fiver, i can actually demonstrate it, use the key to start, no go, use the "engine start" all fine. In any case, its not going to do any harm to any car, even if you do not have the hot start problem, yet ! Anybody wanting details can ask.

wildeep

Original Poster:

362 posts

278 months

Monday 24th May 2004
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Would be interested in how you solved this please David, do you mean your starter button is wired to give the full 11 Amps but using the key only gives half?. Does the wiring for the starter go anywhere near the fusebox at all?

BTW the resistor you sent was perfect thanks very much.

>> Edited by wildeep on Monday 24th May 19:45

david beer

3,982 posts

296 months

Tuesday 25th May 2004
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I think we have this thread to ourselves, do not understand why !! The new relay is in the footwell, it gives the full supply to the solenoid, very easy to do but maybe not wise to say how to "hot wire" every car! You do not have to have the "start" switch to do this. I have lost every email sent to me, i do not know how, so you will have to email me again, but not through my profile.