cut out when on tickover warm up for mot n would not restart
Discussion
Luckily car in garage so no better place to 'breakdown'. When tried to restart pump would not make the usual 2 second priming noise, bench tested pump, ok, fixed false power to pump in situ and primed ok, if the reset on the glove compartment thingybob valvy thing doesent reset the problem does this point to an imobiliser problem and if so is this ok to entrust to your local auto- electrics guys or does it need the expertise of a specialist? P.S. IN THE N.EAST OF ENGLAND and dont know of anybody round here. Comments or help appreciated, Heath bible studied n with car in garage
Fuel pump supply is controlled by the injection ECU in the passenger footwell, via one of two identical Bosch metal-cased relays on a flylead near the ECU. But the circuit also passes through a fuse, the inertia switch you mentioned and the immobiliser. Two other things to check are the connectors to the fuel pump itself and a connector in the void behind the 'B' pillar at the passenger side.
Before resorting to a multimeter to ring out the circuit, the first thing I'd do is flick the metal relays and slap the underside of the dashboard, passenger side. If any of the relays in the circuit have become lazy this may wake them up for a while...
Before resorting to a multimeter to ring out the circuit, the first thing I'd do is flick the metal relays and slap the underside of the dashboard, passenger side. If any of the relays in the circuit have become lazy this may wake them up for a while...
As Andy said try waking them up first.
The two fuel pump relays are fastened loose on the loom in the passenger foot well, if original, they aluminium bodied Bosch items with a red diagonal stripe.
One relay primes the other runs (I think) both driven by the ECU. Sometimes if you’re lucky switching them round might get it to prime but not always. Best thing to do is remove them and check with a meter and a 12 volt power source, there is a circuit diagram on the side of the relay body.
Be careful when checking and/or replacing as these are not standard relays, there is a series diode on the coil side to protect the ECU. Common practice is to connect a protection diode in parallel with the coil and I’m afraid I don’t know if this type of relay provides adequate protection.
Replacement part no’s are “Land Rover AFU2913L” and “Bosch 0732014112”. Be careful if you buy from some specialists that claim to provide an alternative replacement part. I have bought these in the past and they have not been correct.
If these relays are OK then the immobiliser is a bit trickier, do you have a hot start kit fitted and did you do it yourself, if so the process of how to bypass that part of the circuit is easier to explain.
Cheers,
Simon.
The two fuel pump relays are fastened loose on the loom in the passenger foot well, if original, they aluminium bodied Bosch items with a red diagonal stripe.
One relay primes the other runs (I think) both driven by the ECU. Sometimes if you’re lucky switching them round might get it to prime but not always. Best thing to do is remove them and check with a meter and a 12 volt power source, there is a circuit diagram on the side of the relay body.
Be careful when checking and/or replacing as these are not standard relays, there is a series diode on the coil side to protect the ECU. Common practice is to connect a protection diode in parallel with the coil and I’m afraid I don’t know if this type of relay provides adequate protection.
Replacement part no’s are “Land Rover AFU2913L” and “Bosch 0732014112”. Be careful if you buy from some specialists that claim to provide an alternative replacement part. I have bought these in the past and they have not been correct.
If these relays are OK then the immobiliser is a bit trickier, do you have a hot start kit fitted and did you do it yourself, if so the process of how to bypass that part of the circuit is easier to explain.
Cheers,
Simon.
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