Bleeding cooling system and Water Wetter any ideas
Discussion
Any ideas about the best way to bleed the system. I want to bleed the cooling system and replace the coolant with water mixed with Water Wetter and have a try to see how this works. I don't have heat problems but after several minutes for a red light the engine sometimes pinks (!) (what I mean is pre-detonation, dunno the correct word for it, I'm Dutch). A friend of mine told me that this could be caused by so called hot spots in the engine, something Water wetter is supposed to cure. I have tried all the obvious other solutions. The car just had major service by trained technician who couldn't find anything wrong. I allready have David Modwise his 2 stage cooling solution, just incase, brilliant piece of kit btw. So my next try is going to be Water wetter. Any ideas ?? I have searched the forum but found little about Water wetter.
Fred
PS after posting this I saw there was a previous posting asking about Water Wetter. I was busy typing this for so long (the drink didn't help either) that he is now in front of my posting, LOL
>>> Edited by tvr4ever on Monday 31st May 22:56
Fred
PS after posting this I saw there was a previous posting asking about Water Wetter. I was busy typing this for so long (the drink didn't help either) that he is now in front of my posting, LOL
>>> Edited by tvr4ever on Monday 31st May 22:56
When I have Bled the system I have always done it by undoing the Screw on top of the Rad, then getting someone to top up the system in the swirl tank.
All with the heaters on full blast and Hot too.
Dont know to much about water wetter but theres a thread in General TVR Gasssing talking about it.
BB
All with the heaters on full blast and Hot too.
Dont know to much about water wetter but theres a thread in General TVR Gasssing talking about it.
BB
just bleed off the 330ml from the expansion tank and pop it in! run to temp, open the heater. let it run for half an hour, shut down.
when cool, top up (half tank height) and take it for a run. the wetter will mix in normal use.
bin using it for years...good stuff.
check antifeeze level is correct for best effect, and one bottle is fine for griff/chimp, adding more does little.
easy-peasey
edited to say too slow, but if you don't bleed off first it'll just get blown out the pot when the thermostat opens
>> Edited by Guillotine on Monday 31st May 23:02
when cool, top up (half tank height) and take it for a run. the wetter will mix in normal use.
bin using it for years...good stuff.
check antifeeze level is correct for best effect, and one bottle is fine for griff/chimp, adding more does little.
easy-peasey
edited to say too slow, but if you don't bleed off first it'll just get blown out the pot when the thermostat opens
>> Edited by Guillotine on Monday 31st May 23:02
Thanks Guillotine, I thought I had to drain the system and then fill it up again with Water Wetter mixed with water. Your method sounds very user friendly to me, I will try that first. You mentioned you are a fan of Water wetter, can you explain what the effects/benefits were on your car.
Fred
Fred
Just thought that I would add....be careful when you loosen th ebleed screw on the top O/S of radiator as they can fall unscrew too far and drop into the dark unknown (Toffer's voice of experience 
).
There are two tanks. The top one is the swirl tank and you may need to use the side of a big, strong screwdriver to undo the brass plug on top. Also remove the blue cap from the lower expansion tank.
When you have bled the air out of the radiator, fill the swirl tank to the very top and replace the plug. Fill the expansion tank level with teh weld line half way up.
I respectfully suggest that you repeat the process after about a week as more bubles seem to find their way out of the cooling fluid.
I wouldn't recomend doing any of the above with a hot engine as you may find the water very hot and the extremely hot exhaust manifolds are too close to the action for comfort!
). There are two tanks. The top one is the swirl tank and you may need to use the side of a big, strong screwdriver to undo the brass plug on top. Also remove the blue cap from the lower expansion tank.
When you have bled the air out of the radiator, fill the swirl tank to the very top and replace the plug. Fill the expansion tank level with teh weld line half way up.
I respectfully suggest that you repeat the process after about a week as more bubles seem to find their way out of the cooling fluid.
I wouldn't recomend doing any of the above with a hot engine as you may find the water very hot and the extremely hot exhaust manifolds are too close to the action for comfort!
a drop of around 5degrees (roughly-hard to tell on a TVR gauge) when in high temps.
as someone said before, it works better when system is pushed but you will notice it all the time.
effect is that the borderline cooling on my 500 with A/C (ie has a/c condenser in front of the already pushed radiator) is now normal and in very hot conditions (ie abroad) it means i can use the a/c rather than the heater!
it improves the efficiency of the system for NO effort. as i said before you put it in check antifreeze level. tester costes about £5 from halfords and you want cover to about -20. enough to stop freezing in UK and prevent corrosion. remove coolant and replace with water to get the mix right. THEN remove 330ml (i unscrew the expansion pot from the crossmember and tip it out into a bowl!) then put in W/W.
you should see around 5 degree drop on the run and a slower rise in traffic...providing you have no cooling issues.
cheers
remember to top up a/f if left outside in SEVERE winter freezes and with W/W after a service/engine work
as someone said before, it works better when system is pushed but you will notice it all the time.
effect is that the borderline cooling on my 500 with A/C (ie has a/c condenser in front of the already pushed radiator) is now normal and in very hot conditions (ie abroad) it means i can use the a/c rather than the heater!
it improves the efficiency of the system for NO effort. as i said before you put it in check antifreeze level. tester costes about £5 from halfords and you want cover to about -20. enough to stop freezing in UK and prevent corrosion. remove coolant and replace with water to get the mix right. THEN remove 330ml (i unscrew the expansion pot from the crossmember and tip it out into a bowl!) then put in W/W.
you should see around 5 degree drop on the run and a slower rise in traffic...providing you have no cooling issues.
cheers
remember to top up a/f if left outside in SEVERE winter freezes and with W/W after a service/engine work
Hi Fred
air intake temps would also do it, i have made a thermal jacket for my intake, there are many posh versions available now, mine aint pretty ! I think it also makes that first "stab" of the throttle after sitting at the red lights, just that bit better.It always felt a little "flat", untill the air was moved on and new cool air entered. Maybe Tim (ACT) can advise ?
air intake temps would also do it, i have made a thermal jacket for my intake, there are many posh versions available now, mine aint pretty ! I think it also makes that first "stab" of the throttle after sitting at the red lights, just that bit better.It always felt a little "flat", untill the air was moved on and new cool air entered. Maybe Tim (ACT) can advise ?
Allright, thanks everyone for the reactions. The Water wetter is in there, preleminary results are good. No pinking so far and.... ooh wonder, the temp gauge seems like it's indeed a bit lower. The BIG test will be the holiday in Italy this year. Last year Davids 2 speed fancontrolbox melted during our mountain adventures. David then provided a replacement aly controlbox (for free !!), this looks the bollocks, thanks again David. David do you have any plans of your thermal jacket ? Have you made some sort of cover for the airfilter unit ? Mine is a green filter, same as the standard K&N unit. It sucks air from under the bonnet and through a hole from in front of the radiator. Maybe a thermal jacket would indeed improve things.
Fred
Fred
move the deflector off the back of the filter allowing the cool air to circlate. also make sure the filter is NOT pressed up against the hole for the same reason.
Tim (act) now does a samco style duct for your car from filter to mass meter. supposed to be worth 8bhp.
can't understand it myself how but i will DEFINATELY go with that as V8D recomend it!!
TWO of the highest authorities in the land!
Tim (act) now does a samco style duct for your car from filter to mass meter. supposed to be worth 8bhp.
can't understand it myself how but i will DEFINATELY go with that as V8D recomend it!!
TWO of the highest authorities in the land!
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