Clicking starter motor
Discussion
I have a standard 1994 5l griff. When cold, it takes multiple (like 10 or more) turns of the key to get it started. Usually i can just hear the solenoid clicking. So far it always starts, but for sure one day it won't so what do i do ?
Once started and warm its pretty much ok, maybe requiring one or two goes on the key.
I see it has the relay mod under the bonnet so someone has started down the correct route.
Maybe a new starter motor and a heat shield ?
Once started and warm its pretty much ok, maybe requiring one or two goes on the key.
I see it has the relay mod under the bonnet so someone has started down the correct route.
Maybe a new starter motor and a heat shield ?
The starter motor has two electrical feeds, one is a low current supply which comes from the start setting of the ignition switch and enables a solenoid which switches a much thicker high current supply to run the motor. The return path for both of these is visa the engine block and then back to the battery.
If the high current supply (which is effectively a thick red cable directly from the battery) or the starter motor itself is faulty the engine will normally crank but more slowly than usual. If the solenoid always clicks but the engine fails to crank at all either the contacts on the solenoid are not closing or there is not enough voltage getting to the solenoid to engage it fully.
As the fault is intermittent a useful test would be to connect a cable from the solenoid terminal and bring it into the car. Connect a volt meter between it and ground and note the voltage when the car starts normally and then when it doesn’t. TVR didn’t fit a relay in the solenoid feed from the switch which is a bit rubbish and it is also goes via the immobiliser so often the problem is caused by volt drop between the switch and the solenoid.
Presumably you have confirmed the battery terminals are tightly connected.
If you need a new starter I would recommend looking at the PowerLite one. It uses a more modern smaller geared motor. It is lighter, draws less current and cranks the engine very enthusiastically.
If the high current supply (which is effectively a thick red cable directly from the battery) or the starter motor itself is faulty the engine will normally crank but more slowly than usual. If the solenoid always clicks but the engine fails to crank at all either the contacts on the solenoid are not closing or there is not enough voltage getting to the solenoid to engage it fully.
As the fault is intermittent a useful test would be to connect a cable from the solenoid terminal and bring it into the car. Connect a volt meter between it and ground and note the voltage when the car starts normally and then when it doesn’t. TVR didn’t fit a relay in the solenoid feed from the switch which is a bit rubbish and it is also goes via the immobiliser so often the problem is caused by volt drop between the switch and the solenoid.
Presumably you have confirmed the battery terminals are tightly connected.
If you need a new starter I would recommend looking at the PowerLite one. It uses a more modern smaller geared motor. It is lighter, draws less current and cranks the engine very enthusiastically.
the solenoid always has a good healthy click. the relay i see nearby i'm pretty sure feeds the solenoid as is often recommended to improve the dubious TVR design. Once the engine cranks the speed is ok and it starts almost instantly. i am less inclined to think its an electrical issue i guess, as once the car is warm, the starter rarely fails, but its always takes a few goes from cold.
given that the fault seems to alter with hot/cold i did wonder whether the starter/solenoid had been damaged by heat as i have seen mentioned here before. i think i read that continual high temps can distort the shaft and create a mechanical block to movement.
it kind of gives the impression of being stuck and a few clicks on/off vibrates thinks until they work but of course this may just be my perception of it.
given that the fault seems to alter with hot/cold i did wonder whether the starter/solenoid had been damaged by heat as i have seen mentioned here before. i think i read that continual high temps can distort the shaft and create a mechanical block to movement.
it kind of gives the impression of being stuck and a few clicks on/off vibrates thinks until they work but of course this may just be my perception of it.
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