To hot to enjoy!
Discussion
My 92 4.3 is just to hot inside to enjoy. I have recently refurbished the heater valves and microswitches but it has not made a jot of difference. I appear to have two red hot pipes going into the heater matrix which ever way I try the valve. This means the heater is always hot and consequently so is the cab. I am begining to suspect that the valve may have been fitted to the wrong side of the heater matrix at some time and wondered if anyone could tell me which inlet it should be fitted to. I noticed from the ammount of bodging that someone had been there before me so it is just possible it has been incorrectly fitted. Failing this if there is anything anyone can suggest to cool it down in the cab then please let me know. Roofs off before the jokes start!
When I had my 4.3 I used to have it on hot in the summer anyway
As to draw hot air away from the engine bay. Seriously.
Thing is, you set the blower to allow heat out of the dash vents. Close all of them apart from the two outer ones nearest each window, and direct the heat out of the window. May sound silly, but it works. Trust me
I never did use the cold air blower to cool down in the summer as it had very poor performance, mostly due to the location of the blower itself.
SD
As to draw hot air away from the engine bay. Seriously. Thing is, you set the blower to allow heat out of the dash vents. Close all of them apart from the two outer ones nearest each window, and direct the heat out of the window. May sound silly, but it works. Trust me
I never did use the cold air blower to cool down in the summer as it had very poor performance, mostly due to the location of the blower itself.
SD
Heating/ventilation in precats is usually diabolical. I remember reading that there's a flap that moves to switch hot and cold air - perhaps yours is jammed or misadjusted? Another case for www.tvrbooks.co.uk
Mines hot too. Having spent Sunday upside down in the passenger seat I can confirm it all works OK too.
I started these threads which may be of use to you as they are on the same theme:
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=101377&f=9&h=0
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=104280&f=9&h=0
Whats more anying is that a friends Chim blows cold air. Really cold air, and thats with out A/C.
SHPUB - is the Griff and chim ventalation setup different?
I started these threads which may be of use to you as they are on the same theme:
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=101377&f=9&h=0
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=104280&f=9&h=0
Whats more anying is that a friends Chim blows cold air. Really cold air, and thats with out A/C.
SHPUB - is the Griff and chim ventalation setup different?
scratch'n'diff said:
When I had my 4.3 I used to have it on hot in the summer anyway As to draw hot air away from the engine bay. Seriously.
Thing is, you set the blower to allow heat out of the dash vents. Close all of them apart from the two outer ones nearest each window, and direct the heat out of the window. May sound silly, but it works. Trust me
Works for me as well. Got stuck in horrendous traffic in really hot weather for maybe half an hour yesterday, a real stop-start crawling jam, switched the fans on just as I stopped, heater on full, and the temperature gauge.... ...never moved
TVR reliability?
If the temp does start to edge up, I just pop the bonnet a touch and let the hot air out that way - "a couple of inches makes a big difference"
I know, I know...
But as far as decent cooling for the driver goes, there basically isn't any.
>> Edited by andy43 on Tuesday 8th June 12:26
DustyC said:
Whats more anying is that a friends Chim blows cold air. Really cold air, and thats with out A/C.
SHPUB - is the Griff and chim ventalation setup different?
Yes and no. Basically same system but with minor differences. Some GRiffs have extra driver air vent. Some don't. Pre air con is different than air con.
Anyway aren't you supposed to take the roof off in this hot weather
)
DustyC said:Dusty et al, in the 500 you will see a small valve operated by a servo motor up under the dash behind the glove box. There is a white blob of paiont on it which needs to be aligned when the control is set to the cold position. It is held with a grub screw. On mine it had worked lose or wasn't done up tight in the first place
Mines hot too. Having spent Sunday upside down in the passenger seat I can confirm it all works OK too.
I started these threads ...
Anyway 5 mins realigning it and tightening it did the trick and whereas I used to get only warm or hot air I can now get hot and cold! It is possible Rich... p.s. I've got a picture if you can't visualise where I mean.
Just a stab.... Not even sure if this applies to all cars?
Do you still have the bypass valve, a kind of metal 'H' pipe connects to the flow & return in the footwell. This should operate when the heater valve is closed & allow flow round the cylinder head (highest pressure point from pump I would imagine). Id guess that unless this is operative the heater valve is not strong enough to stop the flow. I wouldnt be surprised if 'engineers' thought this was just a straight coupling and dont bother refitting it if any pipes are renewed.
Dave
Do you still have the bypass valve, a kind of metal 'H' pipe connects to the flow & return in the footwell. This should operate when the heater valve is closed & allow flow round the cylinder head (highest pressure point from pump I would imagine). Id guess that unless this is operative the heater valve is not strong enough to stop the flow. I wouldnt be surprised if 'engineers' thought this was just a straight coupling and dont bother refitting it if any pipes are renewed.
Dave
Spend. This sounds really interesting. Could you maybe send me some more details? I remember when i refurbished the valve it did not seem very strong. Found this out by blowing down it and was surprised when i found i could!Despite a very close inspection I could find nothing wrong with it.
RichB said:
Mines hot too. Having spent Sunday upside down in the passenger seat I can confirm it all works OK too.
I started these threads ...
Dusty et al, in the 500 you will see a small valve operated by a servo motor up under the dash behind the glove box. There is a white blob of paiont on it which needs to be aligned when the control is set to the cold position. It is held with a grub screw. On mine it had worked lose or wasn't done up tight in the first place
p.s. I've got a picture if you can't visualise where I mean.
Is the servo you speak of the one that controls the water valve for flow through the matrix?
If so I checked mine and when it is closed the matrix remains cold. Once opened though its fecking hot and stays hot for a long time.
I personally think I have airflow problems.
If I turn the blowers off I get almost zero airflow through the vents when driving on the motorway.
I have checked behind the dash and they are all connected ok.
If you are on "recirculate" the air will only be moved with the fan on, better to be on "fresh". Of course you may already be !, in which case a splitter or air ram will force air into the mouth more. My valve was closed upon start up but began to creep open as the dash warmed up, the "brain" seems not to have any temp stability. RichB had his reverse on a cold day and it was hot in the cold position and cold in the hot, this being because the valve went pass the closed position. My servo only gets a supply when i press the switch in, so it can not self adjust.
Also, also, the inner wing will get warm and even when the valve is closed its best to keep the fan on all the time to keep the air moving out of the wing. Of course its also best to try and reduce the under bonnet temps. Wow, that was a long one !
Also, also, the inner wing will get warm and even when the valve is closed its best to keep the fan on all the time to keep the air moving out of the wing. Of course its also best to try and reduce the under bonnet temps. Wow, that was a long one !
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