Advice please

[wedget]

I am currently a wedger and am looking at some point in the future to getting a Griffith, As all i know about these cars is they look good is there any specific things i need to look for/ What is the best allround enginge, looking for reliability/ noise rather than speed. I would be treating the car more like a classic than an out and out racer. What would i expect to pay for a goodun prefferably not modified. Many thanks

Also are they reliable..

>>> Edited by wedget on Monday 21st June 10:04

[beano500]

Come on everyone! Fifteen minutes without a response!!!

I'll start by saying you should consider a 500, and the later gearbox for the "best" combination in terms of being well screwed together. All TVR models are better as the production run "matures". (1996 is a good year.) You probably know to look for chassis condition and expect issues to develop on cars that haven't been used. (Black is a good colour.) There's no TVR quirk that hasn't been covered on PH with respect to the Rover V8 cars. (There are a few in the classifieds at the moment... )

[wedget]

I had no idea they had the rover lump in them...I have seen quite a few with dodgy looking front light covers, seem to be done with mastic. Why is this as it ruins the car..

Also who makes the rear diff, as mine is a Jag bit and relativly easy and cheap to get bits for, one good thing about my wedge it is mostly ford/Jag

>> Edited by wedget on Monday 21st June 10:31

[RAW-SEWedge]

Hi Wedget,

It depends on your budget
As a rough guide then I’d say:

£11-£13 grand look for an early Pre-Cat 4.0 or 4.3
£13-£15 grand should get you an early pre-serp 500
£15 grand plus and your into serpentine 500s with T5 box.

Look for the normal stuff really:

Regular Service history
Check the chassis condition and pay particular attention to:

• Front outriggers behind front wheels.

• Rear outriggers by the seatbelt mounts.

• Wishbones get a hard life.

• Check round the chassis under the manifolds also.

• Oil pressure 25 –35psi when running, 20psi at idle when hot is OK.

• Transmissions are fairly quiet so be aware of any nasty noises.

• Pre-serp 500s are a bit lumpy below 2000 revs and will shunt the transmission at town speeds.

• Make sure it don’t over heat. 80-90 deg when running. In traffic the fans should cut in and keep it well below the red.

• Make sure all the major electrics work.

Your not to far from the Northants club meeting point, I am going to try and make the next one on the 14th of July. You don’t need to be a member to turn up so if you can make it then there should be a few people there to point you in the right direction.


>> Edited by RAW-SEWedge on Monday 21st June 11:16

[beano500]

wedget said:

I had no idea they had the rover lump in them...I have seen quite a few with dodgy looking front light covers, seem to be done with mastic. Why is this as it ruins the car..

Yup - the Griff especially is "Mastic City". The mastic ages, but it's not what holds the cover in (IIRC) - another reason why black looks good

wedget said:

Also who makes the rear diff, as mine is a Jag bit and relativly easy and cheap to get bits for, one good thing about my wedge it is mostly ford/Jag

It's a GKN - IIRC a reconditioned unit is about 550. I had mine replaced last year (it was the original still) and it had been noisey for a few thousand miles. They're relatively easy to get hold of (The Garage takes care of all that )

[wedget]

If i bought a red one and it had dodgy mastic, would there be anything i could do to remove old stuff and replace as i am reasonably handy with things

[RAW-SEWedge]

Just in case you missed the subtle hints, beano has reluctantly decided to part with his luvly Black Griff

[beano500]

As I'm not handy, I don't try things like that (and I don't like jobs by Bodgett & Scarper).

But if you have the patience I would say that's quite an easy job - where The Garage has done jobs like replacing my rear lights and sealing round the clutch cylinder it all looks professionally done.

[wedget]

I will do a Px with beano and i would only want a couple of grand as well....

[griffter]

wedget said:

I am currently a wedger and am looking at some point in the future to getting a Griffith, As all i know about these cars is they look good is there any specific things i need to look for/ What is the best allround enginge, looking for reliability/ noise rather than speed. I would be treating the car more like a classic than an out and out racer. What would i expect to pay for a goodun prefferably not modified. Many thanks Also are they reliable.. >>> Edited by wedget on Monday 21st June 10:04

For noise you need a pre-cat model (thought it's not as if the 500s don't superb too ). People will tell you can get the 500s to sound louder by removing precats etc. Yes you can but it costs, and then its modified...so you have to tell the insurance etc. Not necessarily a problem, but to be considered.

All will become classics in time, probably pre-cats first. I'm not convinced pre-cats will ever be worth a premiumn over a like 500, but they do have rarity value.

They're all as reliable as your maintenance. Trust to an annual service, never lifting the bonnet in the meantime and you'll be lucky not to have trouble. Treat the car with respect and intelligence and it'll (probably) be nice to you.

To be honest, I think a sweet 4.0 would be the best bet for you. All the noise, most of the go, and best condition/cost ratio (generally). Having said that, you've got to buy a car you like, and, yes, black is the best colour!

Mastic can be applied over the original to improve the look. On mine the mastic had separated from the body work leaving a gap around the edge which looked shite and would probably have let in water. A quick going over with some fresh stuff and the gap's sealed - looks much better too. The mastic does hold the pod in place, but there's a bracket at the back of the pod too. If the pod doesn't fall into the body work under gentle pressure, then you can probably get away with a cosmetic job like I did, which, if you force enough mastic into the gap around the edge of the old stuff will also stick the pod in place.

Good luck!