Non Starting Griff. Fuel pump not priming
Non Starting Griff. Fuel pump not priming
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Discussion

Russell Mc

Original Poster:

573 posts

175 months

Sunday 13th November 2011
quotequote all
Done a few bits on the car yesterday like sorting out the one speed only heater blower and did a coolant change. When I went to start the car to put it back in the garage the bloody thing wouldn't start. The fuel pump isn't priming on the first turn of the ignition. I pushed it back in the garage and did some reading up.
I came accross this thread which sounds like my problem.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
I have located the two relays on the flying part of the loom. I held onto one at a time and turned the ignition and can feel one of them click but not the other. Ok simple test i thought it to switch them round to see if it will work in the other plug. Both the relays work but only in one plug. When connected to the mainly brown bunch of wires it doesn't click but if i switch it to the holder next to it which is mainly white wires then it does click.
Am I being stupid here or could there be a problem with the wiring going to this (ecu?) plug?
The fuel pump relay on the fuse board is clicking fine and the fuses for the pump and ecu are intact.
Any ideas?

bubblehead

264 posts

217 months

Sunday 13th November 2011
quotequote all
Did you disconnect the battery?

Russell Mc

Original Poster:

573 posts

175 months

Sunday 13th November 2011
quotequote all
When? When doing the work? Yes it was disconnected while doing the electrics but i took it up the road and left it running after doing the coolant. Its only when i went to start it an hour later that it wouldn't start.

Edited by Russell Mc on Sunday 13th November 19:09

Aussie John

1,021 posts

255 months

Sunday 13th November 2011
quotequote all
The fuel pump relay should be one of the metal ones on the loose wiring, the other is for the ecu. Check the cut-out switch behind the glovebox.

EGB

1,774 posts

181 months

Sunday 13th November 2011
quotequote all
1. Give the fuel pump a tap with some wood.
2. Clean up the exposed electric contacts on pump.
3. Check the positive and earth feeds on pump.

EGB

1,774 posts

181 months

Sunday 13th November 2011
quotequote all
John. What is this cut out switch behind the glove box. What does it look like?
Thanks.............Eddie

Russell Mc

Original Poster:

573 posts

175 months

Sunday 13th November 2011
quotequote all
If the fuel pump is stuck the relay should still click shouldn't it?

black and green

669 posts

215 months

Monday 14th November 2011
quotequote all
EGB said:
John. What is this cut out switch behind the glove box. What does it look like?
Thanks.............Eddie
Inertia switch - black box about 2" x 2" with a reset button top left. Operates in the event of a sudden high 'g' load, ie crash. Visible when glove box removed.

Russell Mc

Original Poster:

573 posts

175 months

Monday 14th November 2011
quotequote all
I'll have a look for that later and see if it's tripped out.
Do they get more sensitive with age?

Loubaruch

1,410 posts

222 months

Monday 14th November 2011
quotequote all
If changing the relays does not cure your problem (always worth keeping 2 spare in the glove box in any case) send me a mail as it could be the imobiliser.

EGB

1,774 posts

181 months

Monday 14th November 2011
quotequote all
black and green said:
EGB said:
John. What is this cut out switch behind the glove box. What does it look like?
Thanks.............Eddie
Inertia switch - black box about 2" x 2" with a reset button top left. Operates in the event of a sudden high 'g' load, ie crash. Visible when glove box removed.
Thanks B & G, I should have known. I had my META bridged with similar problems.

Russell Mc

Original Poster:

573 posts

175 months

Monday 14th November 2011
quotequote all
Took the glove box to get to the cut out thing. However it made no difference pushing or pulling the button out so I can rule this out.
Here is a pic for future reference


Is there anything else I can do while the car is in the garage? I cant check the fuel pump as mentioned above till i can pull the car out at the weekend.

Colin RedGriff

2,541 posts

281 months

Monday 14th November 2011
quotequote all
Trying to think of things that might have changed or were touched when you worked on the car.

I assume from your description that the engine turns over on the starter even if the pump isn't priming?

If it won't turn over either then possibly an immobiliser problem.

When you can get to the fuel pump try running a separate 12v feed to the pump to make sure that is not the fault.

When you had the battery disconnected did you pull the battery out and all the associated wires? Maybe something has got disturbed/disconnected. Maybe check through the wiring for loose connections or fuses to see if any have blown,

Is the fuel pump not priming the only thing you've noticed?

Russell Mc

Original Poster:

573 posts

175 months

Monday 14th November 2011
quotequote all
Yes it only seems the fuel pump thats the problem. The car turns over and ran very breifly on the remaining fuel in the fuel rail before dying. Now whenever I turn the ingintion everything is fine except that the fuel pub doesn't prime.
I have had the battey on and off a fair few times recently and haven't knock anything so I have no idea whats going on with it. If when I get a chance this weekend I give the pump 12v and it does work where does that leave me?

EGB

1,774 posts

181 months

Tuesday 15th November 2011
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If 12V feed works then its likely to be the feed from the loom to the pump. Check this with a metre. If so, check the feed from the fuse box, pump fuse is ok and seated 20A no 13 left-right on mine, relays are pushed home. Good luck, let us know how you get on. Eddie.

Aussie John

1,021 posts

255 months

Tuesday 15th November 2011
quotequote all
Just stick any relay in for the time being, if it works well and good, don't leave it in or you will flatten the battery.

Russell Mc

Original Poster:

573 posts

175 months

Tuesday 15th November 2011
quotequote all
Im going to pick up a couple of new relays tomorrow. Hopefully it'll work or at least I can rule them out and keep them for spares.

blitzracing

6,419 posts

244 months

Wednesday 16th November 2011
quotequote all
Dont use any relays for testing, normal ones dont have the protection diodes in them to stop the realy damaging the ECU when it switches. Check the initial sequence when the ignition is turn on (dont start). The main relay and fuel pump relay should both click shut at the same time, and then after a couple of seconds the pump relay should drop out. If the main relay does not close to start with, it wont supply the pump relay.

Russell Mc

Original Poster:

573 posts

175 months

Friday 18th November 2011
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Fitted two new Bosch relays just now and still the same problem.

blitzracing

6,419 posts

244 months

Friday 18th November 2011
quotequote all
Do either relays click in? If there is no action at all, Id be looking at the ignition supply to the ECU loom, as this supplies the 12 volts onto the main relay first, and the ECU then grounds the other side of the coil to energise the relay, (this then puts 12 volts on the fuel pump relay that the ECU then grounds). Basically you are looking at loss of supply, broken connections to the ECU, or faulty ECU. Wiring diagram of the 14cux loom here:

http://www.g33.co.uk/images/PDFS/14cux_fuel_inject...





Edited by blitzracing on Friday 18th November 19:03