Ever wished you hadn't bothered!!!

[Davewelly]

Still trying to get to the bottom of my Griff refusing to rev past 4000rpm I decided by process of elimination to change a few things.
Started with the distributor cap and rotor arm, changed them, put all the leads back correctly and.............................. I've spent the last 2 weekends trying to get it to start again but now it won't even fire up!!!!
tried everything and now I'm looking for a box of matches!!! AAARRRGGGHHH!!!!!

[carsy]

Have you got a spark ? Pull a plug out and check. If you have, are you absolutely positive you have the leads on correct.

[dnb]

Many times... Have you checked the connection from the dizzy to the ignition amp or tried changing the ignition amplifier itself?

[Colin RedGriff]

Look at your new cap and rotor arm carefully and make sure they are the same. Are they genuine Lucas ones, there are some copies out there that that are of dubious quality. Try putting back the original components one at a time.

[J400GED]

Colin RedGriff said:

Look at your new cap and rotor arm carefully and make sure they are the same. Are they genuine Lucas ones, there are some copies out there that that are of dubious quality. Try putting back the original components one at a time.

There are even genuine Lucas dizzy caps where the contacts within the cap are in a different position relative to the points at where the retaining clip mouldings are - i.e. you would have to rotate the dizzy to get the correct timing. Compare the orientation of the contacts on the two caps.

HTH

Ged

[RichB]

Davewelly said:

tried everything and now I'm looking for a box of matches!!! AAARRRGGGHHH!!!!!

Do you know what? I think I'd give it to a decent TVR engineer and say fix it. Surely won't cost more that a day's work, probably less and you'll have peace of mind. It's worth it sometimes to pay someone else

[Davewelly]

Cheers for the replies.
Yep tried all the suggestions........although they aren't genuine Lucas parts as I got them from a local motor factors.
I will check that tomorrow, although I fear I may have to admit defeat and get someone else to sort it

[J400GED]

Dave,
Try putting the old items back on one by one until it starts again.

[deeen]

Check the low tension cables. I had the copper core broken inside the undamaged plastic, and you have just moved it all.

[LordGrover]

HTH

[neal1980]

Will it rev past 4000rpm whilst stationery?

[MADMAX2]

neal1980 said:

Will it rev past 4000rpm whilst stationery?

Ive never heard a Griff rev anywhere near 4000rpm stationery or under load Neal!

[RichB]

MADMAX2 said:

neal1980 said:

Will it rev past 4000rpm whilst stationery?

I've never heard a Griff rev anywhere near 4000rpm stationery or under load Neal!

[MADMAX2]

LordGrover said:

HTH

i have got a quicker way..........

[Davewelly]

neal1980 said:

Will it rev past 4000rpm whilst stationery?

Funnily enough yes it will!!
I thought that was odd??

Thats when its running, haven't had chance to sort it this weekend.

[kbear]

Davewelly said:

Started with the distributor cap and rotor arm, changed them, put all the leads back correctly and.............................. I've spent the last 2 weekends trying to get it to start again but now it won't even fire up!!!!
tried everything and now I'm looking for a box of matches!!! AAARRRGGGHHH!!!!!

Exactly the same happened to me the first time I removed my spark leads. I didn't pay any attention to where they went when I removed them and just refitted them as per the bible. Car just wouldn't start for love or money. I eventually worked out my distributor was in slightly out of normap spec, so the number one lead wasnt in the normal spot. It was just a matter of refitting the plug leads one position further round, can't remember which way I had to go. Do you have any photos of your engine bay with the dizzy pictured, you'll soon work it out.

Or some clever guy here can tell you how to work out TDC on piston 1 and tell you where the rotor arm should be facing.

[Keithyboy]

I had a similar problem on my old Cerb a few years back and it turned out to be the coil. It would rev freely when stationery but under full load ( ) badly misfire. I know Cerbs run coil packs rather than a single unit; which is of course far better situated than the packs are in the Cerb, but thought I'd share anyways. Try switching the coil?

[Davewelly]

kbear said:

Exactly the same happened to me the first time I removed my spark leads. I didn't pay any attention to where they went when I removed them and just refitted them as per the bible. Car just wouldn't start for love or money. I eventually worked out my distributor was in slightly out of normap spec, so the number one lead wasnt in the normal spot. It was just a matter of refitting the plug leads one position further round, can't remember which way I had to go. Do you have any photos of your engine bay with the dizzy pictured, you'll soon work it out.

Or some clever guy here can tell you how to work out TDC on piston 1 and tell you where the rotor arm should be facing.

Tried it all!!!
Got a mechanic coming around tomorrow, it's bound to be something simple that I have overlooked and I will look like a complete muppet!!

[Davewelly]

Keithyboy said:

I had a similar problem on my old Cerb a few years back and it turned out to be the coil. It would rev freely when stationery but under full load ( ) badly misfire. I know Cerbs run coil packs rather than a single unit; which is of course far better situated than the packs are in the Cerb, but thought I'd share anyways. Try switching the coil?

Sounds like a plan

[Keithyboy]

Did you source the fault?