Knackered Bid End !

[Griffith77]

Hi All

First post and i'm looking for a bit of advice.

As the title suggests, i've got a big end gone which is going to need the motor pulling.

Griffs a standard 56k mile 4.3BV.

Is it easier to take the engine out with the box or separate them and pull just the engine?

I've done a search but i can't find a "step by step" on doing this - are there any "gotchas" to look out for?

Many thanks

andy

[spend]

Remove the engine & box as one unit...

Splitting the early ones means fighting the bellhousing off so you can unbolt the box from inside. Much easier to just remove the whole lot and uncouple at your ease out of the car.

[Ant.]

Also, taking the box and motor out together, means not having to take off the fannimolds.....

[haircutmike]

I decided to leave the box in today.

Disconnect battery earth
Exhaust off
All pipes and ancileries etc.
Front cross member, remove
Starter
Manifolds
Plenum, trumpet base and fuel rail off
Front rubber mounts off
Lower engine on a trolley jack
Remove top 2 bell housing bolts, (a swivel ratchet spanner is king here).
Earth strap at rear of nearside cylinder head
Remove remainder of bell housing bolts from below and extrract.

Sounds easy eh?

[Griffith77]

Thanks for the reply’s gents…

Think I’m going to look at trying to pull just the engine as per haircutmike’s route – take it it’s the top 2 bell housing bolts that are the sticky point?

If just the engine coming out, where’s the best lifting points?

[haircutmike]

Ttat's correct.

That's why you need to lower the engine to gain access to the top 2 bolts.

When I took mine out before, I needed the box out so it all came out as one.
I thought I'd try it this way this time.
Now a lot of bolts have been renewed, it's easier now.

Don't forget to order a set of ARP exhaust manifold bolts, reduces the bolt up time by 75% at least!

I used. A pair of nylon straps and a proper engine crane.

Good luck .

[Griffith77]

thanks haircutmike

one further question....

did you have to undo the bolts supporting the gearbox to allow the engine to drop enough to get to the top bell housing bolts or was there enough give without putting too much strain on the input shaft?

tia

andy

[haircutmike]

I left mine bolted, there are rubber bushes on the mount.

[haircutmike]

Here's one I prepared earlier this evening!

Use a couple of long socket extensions down the side of the gearbox to get to the bell housing bolts.

[steve-V8s]

haircutmike said:

Here's one I prepared earlier this evening!
Use a couple of long socket extensions down the side of the gearbox to get to the bell housing bolts.

Your earlier written description has an error. There is no mention of what to do with the two ice cream tubs.

[spend]

Have you actually considered asking if the tips you have been given relate to a similar engine, box (and by implication bellhousing)?

Rough appraisal OTOMH:
T5 = nightmare linkage to drop box out, easy to split from engine / bellhousing, oil all over the place when prop shaft removed ( also a PITA to achieve)
LT77 = PITA box-bellhousing, piece of pee to drop box, disconnect prop UJ...

[Griffith77]

valid point Spend.

Mines an LT77 on a pre-serp block.

I'm keen to still try the engine only route as it saves doing the prop, draining the box/refilling etc (i know, being lazy...) but if it's too tight and i need to take box/engine out together, what's the process - specifically gear stick/linkage?

Having not looked underneath yet i'd guess releasing the box ready to pull the engine is something like:

(assuming the engine is already stripped back and free to move)
Exhaust already off
disconnect rear prop to diff
drain box
remove prop
speedo / starter motor / clutch cable
mounting bolts while supporting on jack
remove gear nob ?!?!?
good to go?


tia

[Barkychoc]

Although my experience is V8S I wouldn't even consider trying to seperate the pre serp engine and box - its dead easy to get them both out as one unit. No need to do anything with the gearbox oil - well I didn't bother and never lost any.

I presume Griff / Chim LT77 is the same you just unscrew the gearknob and you could argue thats optional if you're not bothered about damaging it. I unscrewed mine and cable tied a bit of bubble wrap to the shaft.
Oh and the LT77 gearbox has a 4 bolt output flange so no oil pi55ing everywhere, does the T5 have a splined output to deal with?

The only downside is you need quite a steep angle / some height to get it out, but its still the way to go IMHO with the LT77.

[jesfirth]

andy, i took my 500 engine out earlier this year and produced a complete idiots 50 point guide - scroll through my posts and you will find it. HTH Jes

[Griffith77]

Hi Jez

thanks - really helpful.

In fact, looking at your posts you've already covered alot of areas i'm looking at......

[Griffith77]

Voilà !

That was a pain....

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now for the fun bit......