Exhaust Manifold removal - Any tips?
Discussion
Hi,
Having finally decided to bite the bullet and buy the ACT Manifolds and Cats (well it is Christmas...) I am now wondering if anyone has any tips with regards to removing the existing manifolds?
I can see that the top ones are easy to get to with a 9/16th's spanner, but I really can't see how to get to the bottom bolts...
Thank you in advance for you help and advice!
Regards
Steve
Poole, Dorset
Having finally decided to bite the bullet and buy the ACT Manifolds and Cats (well it is Christmas...) I am now wondering if anyone has any tips with regards to removing the existing manifolds?
I can see that the top ones are easy to get to with a 9/16th's spanner, but I really can't see how to get to the bottom bolts...
Thank you in advance for you help and advice!
Regards
Steve
Poole, Dorset
on the drivers side it may give more room to remove the starter motor, the time it takes to disconnect battery and remove the starter motor can save a few scraped knuckles later on.
on the passenger side the engine mount can cause problems without a good selection of different length spanners.
on fitting the new ones I`d buy a set of arp bolts, the ones with the 3/8" head, nordlock washers, and also consider slotting the bottom holes in the manifold flanges, that way you can start the bottom bolts, then fit the manifolds by sliding them down over the bolts.and dont forget a decent set of gaskets.
on the passenger side the engine mount can cause problems without a good selection of different length spanners.
on fitting the new ones I`d buy a set of arp bolts, the ones with the 3/8" head, nordlock washers, and also consider slotting the bottom holes in the manifold flanges, that way you can start the bottom bolts, then fit the manifolds by sliding them down over the bolts.and dont forget a decent set of gaskets.
A Friggin nitemare lol , I had to change the left bank Ex gasket , I'n the summer , had been blowing for ages and couldn't put it off any longer . I had the use of my pals ramp , but one of the bolts was near impossible to get to. Patience and a good selection of spanners is essential !
Steve
Having literally just walked in from pulling the engine, i agreed with the guys above - a pita!
Top bolts easy, front 2 cylinders on drivers and front 3 on passengers bottom bolts OK, just slow, but was able to take all of these from the top.
Drives side number 3 cylinder took out the starter and did from the underneath.
Rear 2 bottom were hex bolts and had to be done from top with a 8mm stub hex drive - luckily they weren’t tight - drivers side was actually blowing - but very slow progress.
best of luck
Having literally just walked in from pulling the engine, i agreed with the guys above - a pita!
Top bolts easy, front 2 cylinders on drivers and front 3 on passengers bottom bolts OK, just slow, but was able to take all of these from the top.
Drives side number 3 cylinder took out the starter and did from the underneath.
Rear 2 bottom were hex bolts and had to be done from top with a 8mm stub hex drive - luckily they weren’t tight - drivers side was actually blowing - but very slow progress.
best of luck
All,
I thought that the job maybe a pain...
So off to get a decent set of Axle Stands and I guess it is going to take how long it takes!
...and yes I will also sort all the other issues that I have been putting off, like that small oil leak ;-)
I am also going to replace the Speedo Sensor, and need advice with the best approach, will start a new Thread.
Thanks everyone for your help!
Regards
Steve
Poole, Dorset
I thought that the job maybe a pain...
So off to get a decent set of Axle Stands and I guess it is going to take how long it takes!
...and yes I will also sort all the other issues that I have been putting off, like that small oil leak ;-)
I am also going to replace the Speedo Sensor, and need advice with the best approach, will start a new Thread.
Thanks everyone for your help!
Regards
Steve
Poole, Dorset
Soak the bolts in a good penetration oil the day before, if you can do it a couple of days before and give it couple of applications. Gives it time to work it's way in before you start.
A couple of the lower bolts can be reach with a long extension and socket if you remove the wheel.
Removing the exhaust and starter motor is definitely a good idea.
A couple of the lower bolts can be reach with a long extension and socket if you remove the wheel.
Removing the exhaust and starter motor is definitely a good idea.
Colin RedGriff said:
Soak the bolts in a good penetration oil the day before, if you can do it a couple of days before and give it couple of applications. Gives it time to work it's way in before you start.
A couple of the lower bolts can be reach with a long extension and socket if you remove the wheel.
Removing the exhaust and starter motor is definitely a good idea.
+1 for the oil!.. you really DON'T want to snap a head off.. I know it holds the job up a couple of days whilst it works... but taking a head off will take longer!!A couple of the lower bolts can be reach with a long extension and socket if you remove the wheel.
Removing the exhaust and starter motor is definitely a good idea.
I did mine with everything still on.. but agree it would be easier to remove things... Even if you don't do anything else... remove the Live from the battery!
Putting the bolts back in is, as has been said, a real PITA. Some I found you need to start off whilst the manifold is still loose, as they don't fit when it is all tightened up. (This may not apply if you are upgrading). I messed about for hours, dropping the things. Then a brainwave, which I share:
A bit of stick with string.
I took a 5mm square, 20 cm long piece of wood (these measurements do not have to be exact). Gaffer tape a piece of string towards the top, and then place the bolt on the top of the stick, and hold it down with the string. Now, from underneath the car, you can slot the end of the bolt into its hole, let go of the string, and give it another shove with the stick. It took me about two hours of toil to work this out. Then it took less than a minute.
Have fun!
A bit of stick with string.
I took a 5mm square, 20 cm long piece of wood (these measurements do not have to be exact). Gaffer tape a piece of string towards the top, and then place the bolt on the top of the stick, and hold it down with the string. Now, from underneath the car, you can slot the end of the bolt into its hole, let go of the string, and give it another shove with the stick. It took me about two hours of toil to work this out. Then it took less than a minute.
Have fun!
I'd make sure it was up on a proper lift so you can get right underneath.
Remove the starter motor, as that allows you to get your hands right in for much better access.
The string and piece of wood idea looks like a great idea. That'll save you a lot of sweary-time !
New 'zorst looks nice by the way. (Make sure the cats are removed for full effect)
Remove the starter motor, as that allows you to get your hands right in for much better access.
The string and piece of wood idea looks like a great idea. That'll save you a lot of sweary-time !
New 'zorst looks nice by the way. (Make sure the cats are removed for full effect)
Hi,
I just thought I would post an update on my progress...
Both Exhaust Manifolds now removed, time taken 2 hours.
I had to remove the Starter Motor, Rear Anti Roll-bar to Drop the Exhaust.
Next job; replace the Heat Protection Matting on both sides of the engine bay and then put everything back together!
Steve
Poole, Dorset
I just thought I would post an update on my progress...
Both Exhaust Manifolds now removed, time taken 2 hours.
I had to remove the Starter Motor, Rear Anti Roll-bar to Drop the Exhaust.
Next job; replace the Heat Protection Matting on both sides of the engine bay and then put everything back together!
Steve
Poole, Dorset
Drop exhaust, remove starter, soak bolts in plus gas for at least 24 hrs. Take yor time and try not to get stressed. It's a long crappy job, only being able to turn bolts about 20 degrees at a time, just take it easy, don't round any bolts or strip Any threads. Oh, and use stainless ARP bolts when you put the new ones on.
A500TVR said:
Hi,
I just thought I would post an update on my progress...
Both Exhaust Manifolds now removed, time taken 2 hours.
I had to remove the Starter Motor, Rear Anti Roll-bar to Drop the Exhaust.
Next job; replace the Heat Protection Matting on both sides of the engine bay and then put everything back together!
Steve
Poole, Dorset
Good luck, looking forward to seeing some pics of the finished result.I just thought I would post an update on my progress...
Both Exhaust Manifolds now removed, time taken 2 hours.
I had to remove the Starter Motor, Rear Anti Roll-bar to Drop the Exhaust.
Next job; replace the Heat Protection Matting on both sides of the engine bay and then put everything back together!
Steve
Poole, Dorset
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