Discussion
Speak to Tim at [url]ACT|www.actproducts.co.uk[/url] about the best position, ducting and K&N filter for the griff, I'm sure he will be able to help you. Even if you don't buy from him he'll give you top advice, or if you wait a bit longer he may post here.
Harry
Harry
You wouldn't expect any gain just from removing the filter (unless the filter was clogged/too small) but if the filter is drawing in hot air then there may be significant power gains from moving it so it draws in cold air. This works out at very roughly 1 BHP gain per degree Centigrade cooler, so pulling in hot air can lose masses of power.
But Pete, on the Griffith the air intake is up front just inside the nose, so it would be impossible to get inlet air any cooler.
It was after I read the article in Sprint about the chap with the Purple Cerbera who made his own aluminium air intake box with a couple of Piper cross filters inside etc. that I got thinking, but messers Heath, Adams and Lamont said don't bother. Rich...
It was after I read the article in Sprint about the chap with the Purple Cerbera who made his own aluminium air intake box with a couple of Piper cross filters inside etc. that I got thinking, but messers Heath, Adams and Lamont said don't bother. Rich...
yours has the flat filter so i'm not sure.
the cylinder inlet is 75mm (3") and is 120mm wide and about 170mm long. on mine this just jubilee clips onto the pipe above the radiator in the nose. this picks up clean air from a hole above the no plate, above the radiator.
the other type is a flat foam filter which forms the base of the box above the no plate. there may be enough room inside the box where the pipe to the ammeter goes to fit the air filter on. i guess tim lamont would be the guy to ask if they're compatable.
the cylinder inlet is 75mm (3") and is 120mm wide and about 170mm long. on mine this just jubilee clips onto the pipe above the radiator in the nose. this picks up clean air from a hole above the no plate, above the radiator.
the other type is a flat foam filter which forms the base of the box above the no plate. there may be enough room inside the box where the pipe to the ammeter goes to fit the air filter on. i guess tim lamont would be the guy to ask if they're compatable.
Talking to a bloke the other day and he said that i should remove my ducting and swap it for either a silicone 75mm hose or a polished aluminium one and fit a K&N Air filter in exactly the same place as the original one, and vent 2 50mm pipes using brake vent ducts to catch the air from under the car directed to the K&N, he said this will involve some brackets and cable ties and a little time, and would up the BHP by arround 5%, Sounded about right to me for around £120.00??????
Guillotine said:
the cylinder inlet is 75mm (3") and is 120mm wide and about 170mm long. on mine this just jubilee clips onto the pipe above the radiator in the nose. this picks up clean air from a hole above the no plate, above the radiator.
Yep, that's the one on mine, mine is a Green filter btw because they don't sell the K&N ones over here. I have been thinking of improving the cold air flow to the filter. Maybe you can enlarge the hole and bend the bracket so the filter will be lower and pick up a bit more cold air. Maybe install a heatshield on top also, any ideas ?
Fred
Guillotine
Yep, I'm thinking something in the line of what's on your photo. Maybe when you make some sort of a box on the inside so it can't suck hot air and them make a scoop below the filter you can have ram air effect. Then again my imagination is running wild again, I'll settle for the scoop.
Fred
Yep, I'm thinking something in the line of what's on your photo. Maybe when you make some sort of a box on the inside so it can't suck hot air and them make a scoop below the filter you can have ram air effect. Then again my imagination is running wild again, I'll settle for the scoop.
Fred
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