Coolant loss

[s,one]

Drove home tonight car seemed to be running warmer than usual,checked the water level found it to be very low.On closer inspection I have a leak at the rear of the engine but can't quite make out where it's coming from.Disconnected both hoses which run at high level at the top of the block ,no apparent leaks but can't see anywere else it could be.There is a small pool of water on top of the bell housing but I assume this could be spraying or running from anywere.

Any Clues

Steve

[Leadfoot]

The inlet manifold/block gasket (dunno if this has water or just oil ways?)

[old64er]

i dont know if the inlet manifold is water cooled but on my old vitesse 3.5 it was (sorry just got back from a blast so cant check )

but it sounds like the rear hose

please anyone correct me if i am wrong.

i will take a look tommorow to see if i can help

[GreenV8S]

The hoses to and from the heater run between the inlet manifold and the valey gasket, at the front you also have the stat housing, bypass hose and the feed and return to the thottle body heater (normally disconnected, but the feeds are still there). A leak in any of these could dump water into the valley where it would run to the front or back depending which way the ground sloped. There is also a water way at each end of each head, the ones are the rear are blanked off, the ones at the front feed into the stat housing at the front of the inlet manifold. I would be surprised if any of these decided to leak unless the inlet manifold has been disturbed though.

[DustyC]

Whilst on the topic...

My swirl tank is about half full.
If I top it up to about 2" from the top (as per bible) the next time I check it has dropped to half full.

If I leave it alone it stays at half full so I have assumed its happy at this level.

Car doesn't over heat even in the worst scenarios so assume all is OK? I hope so!

[s,one]

GreenV8S said:

The hoses to and from the heater run between the inlet manifold and the valey gasket, at the front you also have the stat housing, bypass hose and the feed and return to the thottle body heater (normally disconnected, but the feeds are still there). A leak in any of these could dump water into the valley where it would run to the front or back depending which way the ground sloped. There is also a water way at each end of each head, the ones are the rear are blanked off, the ones at the front feed into the stat housing at the front of the inlet manifold. I would be surprised if any of these decided to leak unless the inlet manifold has been disturbed though.

Looks like you could be right,cant be sure but the copper/brass coupling from the head which goes toward the heater element does show some signs of water marking.This comes out of the head directly behind the alternator and I suppose could dump water into the valley.I suppose firstly i will check the hose then remove the coupling and put a bit of PTFE tape around it.
Any other tips.

Thanks

Steve

[Ballistic Banana]

DustyC said:

Whilst on the topic... My swirl tank is about half full. If I top it up to about 2" from the top (as per bible) the next time I check it has dropped to half full. If I leave it alone it stays at half full so I have assumed its happy at this level. Car doesn't over heat even in the worst scenarios so assume all is OK? I hope so!

They all find there on Level Dusty, Nine sits just below the half way mark, fill it up any more and it spits it out. Dont forget to double check at the expansion tank as thats the more Important one.

BB

[simon.b]

If you have an expansion tank (blue cap) this ideally should be half full, but will find its own level. Then the swirl tank (brass cap) should always be completely full and once the system has been bled there is no need to open this one, unless the system is drained down or the expansion tank has emptied for some reason.

If you only have a swirl tank, I duno.

Cheers,

Simon.

[razzle99]

Dusty, yours sounds exactly the same as mine. Worried for a while, but have never (touching wood) had any temperature issues

[razzle99]

Dusty, yours sounds exactly the same as mine. Worried for a while, but have never (touching wood) had any temperature issues

[DustyC]

simon.b said:

If you have an expansion tank (blue cap) this ideally should be half full, but will find its own level. Then the swirl tank (brass cap) should always be completely full and once the system has been bled there is no need to open this one, unless the system is drained down or the expansion tank has emptied for some reason.

errrrr! (loser "family fortunes" type sound directed at me).

I meant my expansion tank sits half way.
Not checked the swirl tank. Didnt see a need since I have no problems.
Just had a full service and running extremely well now too. Great when its like this, I love it.