Gearbox linkage question
Gearbox linkage question
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Discussion

Rob_the_Sparky

Original Poster:

1,000 posts

262 months

Tuesday 28th February 2012
quotequote all
I'm taking the box off to change the clutch on my Griff (T5 box) and have a question:

I know that I have to disconnect the gear linkage but from the pictures in Steve Heath's book it looks like there are two ways of doing is:

1. Disconnect the whole linkage from the box, bolts front and back of the box or
2. Disconnect the gear stick from the linkage

What is the best method/usual method?

Ta

Rob

DarkMatter

1,498 posts

255 months

Tuesday 28th February 2012
quotequote all
I prefer to remove the whole linkage, that will also enable you to renew the plastic sleeves/washers/balljoint that are used in the linkage, however this means that you'll have to disconnect the handbrake and remove the tunnel cover to get access to the linkage.

Rob_the_Sparky

Original Poster:

1,000 posts

262 months

Wednesday 29th February 2012
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Ta, hoping not to have to take the interior apart too much so think I'll give it a shot from underneath first. I can always get the interior apart if I have to, can't see that I can loose anything by giving it a go (apart from some skin)

Rob_the_Sparky

Original Poster:

1,000 posts

262 months

Saturday 3rd March 2012
quotequote all
How many bolt have to come out to let me get the box off? I just got the bolt out of the back of the linkage and from the feels of it the front end slides out. Is that correct?

Also, what is the cover for the bell housing inspect hole normally like? I just took mine out to find that it is an old paint tin lid, some how I doubt this is correct!

Rob

P.S. Having to saw off one of the prop shaft bolts made life more entertaining, but I guess that is life. The more longer I spend under the car the more jobs I find...

DarkMatter

1,498 posts

255 months

Saturday 3rd March 2012
quotequote all
Rob_the_Sparky said:
How many bolt have to come out to let me get the box off? I just got the bolt out of the back of the linkage and from the feels of it the front end slides out. Is that correct?
There is a rod at the front of the linkage, bolted to the bellhousing, the main remote shaft slides on this, then there is a bolt at the bottom of the gearlever and this has a plastic sleeve and two plastic washers which has to be removed, there is another bolt at the rear of the shaft, and another plastic sleeve and two plastic washers, where the remote connects to the gearbox remote. I can't see how you'd get those sleeves out when working from under the car. I thought that people who release the remote from under the car do so by undoing the four bolts which secure the gearbox gear selector top plate. Maybe this picture will help you...


Rob_the_Sparky said:
Also, what is the cover for the bell housing inspect hole normally like?
It should be a rubber cover - available from TVR Power.

Rob_the_Sparky said:
P.S. Having to saw off one of the prop shaft bolts made life more entertaining, but I guess that is life. The more longer I spend under the car the more jobs I find...
In case you didn't know, these are 3/8" UNF. I buy longer bolts and cut them down so that I end up with a long enough smooth shank to go almost right through both flanges.

Rob_the_Sparky

Original Poster:

1,000 posts

262 months

Sunday 4th March 2012
quotequote all
That is brilliant, photos are so good at explaining things. Now I can make sense of what I was feeling! Had more or less resigned myself to taking the interior apart, now having seen that I think there is no choice.

Thank you very much for the help

Rob

DarkMatter

1,498 posts

255 months

Tuesday 6th March 2012
quotequote all
Just in case you're still struggling...
The plastic sleeves I mentioned pass through the remote linkage bar and the gear lever so even when you've removed the bolt you'll have to remove the plastic sleeve before you can separate the bar and lever.