HT Leads
Author
Discussion

si easter

Original Poster:

219 posts

237 months

Sunday 11th March 2012
quotequote all
Hi all , got myself some shiny new leads and a new cap , connected it all up using the bible fitted it all to the car and you guessed it nothing its completely dead . Have looked in the classifieds at other Griff 500 engine pics and can clearly see the so called no. 5 lead going to the R/H side of the engine!
If anyone with a 500 could do a drawing of the cap with leads and what cylinder they go to ,that would be great Thanks in anticipation ( I know I should have done a drawing DOH )

FactBV

358 posts

248 months

Sunday 11th March 2012
quotequote all
si easter said:
Hi all , got myself some shiny new leads and a new cap , connected it all up using the bible fitted it all to the car and you guessed it nothing its completely dead . Have looked in the classifieds at other Griff 500 engine pics and can clearly see the so called no. 5 lead going to the R/H side of the engine!
If anyone with a 500 could do a drawing of the cap with leads and what cylinder they go to ,that would be great Thanks in anticipation ( I know I should have done a drawing DOH )
Just done the same job on mine. If its completely dead and not even a misfire or backfire, take the lead out of the centre of the distributor cap and the one into the coil. Slide the seals up the lead and clear of the terminal end, push them both home so that you know the terminal ends are as far in as they go and then slide the seals down over the plastic boss of the coil and the cap. I found that when I was pushing the leads in the seals were just sliding down the wire and the brass connectors were not going fully into the recess.

Also might be worth a check to make sure that you have not damaged anything while you have been working there such as a LT input to the coil? Just in case you have put them in the right order. Peter.


K4TRV

1,819 posts

276 months

Sunday 11th March 2012
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blitzracing

6,419 posts

244 months

Sunday 11th March 2012
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Also check you still have the carbon brush thats spring loaded, in the top of the distributor cap. They fall out pretty easily and you wont make contact with the rotor arm if its missing.

Hoover.

5,993 posts

266 months

Sunday 11th March 2012
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some of the patented rotar arms are ste..,,,

Hedgehopper

1,542 posts

268 months

Monday 12th March 2012
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This is another version of the diagram in 'blitzracing's' post. It's from the Discovery factory manual and includes the text referring to cross firing between leads 5&7.


blitzracing

6,419 posts

244 months

Monday 12th March 2012
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Whats not very good on that diagram is the distributor position in the block, as it does not show the vaccume take off as a reference point. Its possible to rotate the distributor far enough around so the firing point for number one cylinder might be out by one plug lead if the distributor has been moved in the past.

EGB

1,774 posts

181 months

Monday 12th March 2012
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Hoover. said:
some of the patented rotar arms are ste..,,,
Chinese made copies I am told, contain too much carbon in the plastic and short out down the spindle stem. Get a genuin Rover Lucas.

si easter

Original Poster:

219 posts

237 months

Monday 12th March 2012
quotequote all
Cheers Guys,am just about to have another fiddle with it ,wish me luck I need it !

si easter

Original Poster:

219 posts

237 months

Monday 12th March 2012
quotequote all
Still no joy, ordered a new ignition amp ! ?

blitzracing

6,419 posts

244 months

Tuesday 13th March 2012
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You can do a really simple test on the ignition amp. Remove the king lead from the dizzy, and tape it up with small gap to chassis to form a spark gap. Then remove the distributor cap, and rotate the engine slowly until one of the trigger lobes lines up with the pickup. Now turn on the ignition, and tap a screw driver tip across the air gap between the rotor and pickup to complete the magnetic circuit, and you should get a decent spark from the king lead.

Lunablack

3,494 posts

186 months

Wednesday 14th March 2012
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si easter said:
Still no joy, ordered a new ignition amp ! ?
If it was running ok before.... You're wasting your moneysmile

Never mind the drawing, you need to establish, which post on the dizzy is No 1.... And then follow the firing order as per the drawing..

To establish No 1... Remove No1 plug, get the piston to the top on the firing stroke, then see which dizzy post is above the rotor arm.... This is where No 1 lead needs to go..... The rest follow on in the firing order in a clockwise direction..

si easter

Original Poster:

219 posts

237 months

Wednesday 14th March 2012
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Thanks Lunablack, It had an occaisional missfire which is why ichangsd the leads and plug tops . Like your idea to find no.1 though will try that at weekend . Thanks again ,and thanks to all you other guys who have helped . Simon

si easter

Original Poster:

219 posts

237 months

Sunday 18th March 2012
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Been in the garage this morning studying the old cap and leads ,I now have no.8 where it shows no.6 in the "bible" turned the key started 1st turn running beautifully, wont be making that mistake again any time soon ! Simon