bloody manifold bolts
Discussion
From memeory its a 9/16" ???? not sure but certainly an imperial plate spanner, attack it with a hack saw and make it about 2" long then its purely a case of swapping between your diddy spanner, a bit of pipe to give it some leverage and a normal spanner, all the while holding a torch in your mouth, a mirror in your fourth hand, and swapping around from getting access from above and below, I don't think there is an easy way its just a plain shit of a job.
Pete,
It's not that difficult. Get the car up in the air on axle stands. Remove starter to gain access to bolts underneath on off-side. Make sure you have a GOOD quality 9/16ths open ended spanner. Shouldn't be too bad on yours as you have a carb set-up so won't have the air flow meter/bend to remove. You will however find it better to remove the heater flow/return pipes [serpentine]. Replace with good quality bolts. Good luck.
Mel. Posted at same time didn't see your reply.
>> Edited by macdeb on Saturday 17th July 10:59
It's not that difficult. Get the car up in the air on axle stands. Remove starter to gain access to bolts underneath on off-side. Make sure you have a GOOD quality 9/16ths open ended spanner. Shouldn't be too bad on yours as you have a carb set-up so won't have the air flow meter/bend to remove. You will however find it better to remove the heater flow/return pipes [serpentine]. Replace with good quality bolts. Good luck.
Mel. Posted at same time didn't see your reply.
>> Edited by macdeb on Saturday 17th July 10:59
are you talking griff exhaust manifold bolts? if you are then you will have to get the can in the air the higher the better, for two nuts on the offside you will have to remove the starter motor and access from underneath, for one nut on the near side again access is from underneath.
I recently fitted a sports exhaust and its the only way .
good luck
Simon
I recently fitted a sports exhaust and its the only way .
good luck
Simon
I have recently removed mine (waiting for new ACT manifolds). I used a 14mm open ended spanner, 14mm ring spanner and a 14mm socket. All seems to work okay (9/16" = 14.29mm). Possibly mine had been replaced with metric?
All of the top bolts, and the two rearmost lower bolts can be removed from above - but fiddly. I also managed to remove the offside underneath bolts without having to remove the starter, having put the front of the car on axle stands. The nearside bolts are inaccessible from below with the exhaust in place. I was lucky that mine had given way where it meets the flexible section so was able to rip it off, having removed the Y piece first.
It is bloddy fiddly, but it is possible.
Good luck!
All of the top bolts, and the two rearmost lower bolts can be removed from above - but fiddly. I also managed to remove the offside underneath bolts without having to remove the starter, having put the front of the car on axle stands. The nearside bolts are inaccessible from below with the exhaust in place. I was lucky that mine had given way where it meets the flexible section so was able to rip it off, having removed the Y piece first.
It is bloddy fiddly, but it is possible.
Good luck!
I considered mine but they were heavily corroded and I decided that the risk of shearing a bolt and the whole world of shit that follows it just wasn't worth it. So paid someone else to do it (and more importantly, take the risk and carry the can for any problems).
I had the bolts replaced with good-quality stainless steel ones to prevent the reoccurrence of the problem.
I'd strongly recommend doing likewise - economising on the bolts is a false economy and you (or a subsequent owner of your car) will regret it.
I had the bolts replaced with good-quality stainless steel ones to prevent the reoccurrence of the problem.
I'd strongly recommend doing likewise - economising on the bolts is a false economy and you (or a subsequent owner of your car) will regret it.
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