what is Mobil 1 0w-40 New Life

[miller1899]

Has anyone come across this stuff? I have been topping up with ordinary Mobil 1 0w-40 but can only find New Life in the shops. Is this the natural successor to ordinary M1? Presumably I can use it to top up as they are both fully synth or would it be better to wait for the next full oil change before using New Life?

Should I even be using 0w-40? The car does seem to be galloping through oil at the moment and I wonder if something thicker would be better.

I have searched and didn't find much although did see a thread where someone said that a deal was done by TVR with Mobil 1 and no one else uses it.

thanks all

[chris52]

miller1899 said:

Should I even be using 0w-40? The car does seem to be galloping through oil at the moment and I wonder if something thicker would be better.

Simple amswer is no, you need a 15w 50 or minimum a 10w 40

Chris

[miller1899]

Thanks. I wonder why my garage has put 0w-40 in it. Given that that is what is in it at the moment presumably I should top up with the same stuff.

[chris52]

If it were me with that oil in I would change the lot and renew the filter. A 0w rating is way to thin for a cold start up on our engines.

Chris

[SILICONEKID340HP]

miller1899 said:

Thanks. I wonder why my garage has put 0w-40 in it. Given that that is what is in it at the moment presumably I should top up with the same stuff.

0w40 in a 50 year old design engine ! I use valoline 20w50 VR1 minerel racing oil with plenty of Zinc

And only costs around £24 for 5 litres .

If i were to use fully synthetic my choice would be millers 10 or 15w60 .

[TVR500Morgan]

+1 with Silicone 0w-40 is too thin for a RV8 it's a 50 year old engine design. I use 10w-40 in TVR RV8's.

[haircutmike]

SILICONEKID340HP said:

miller1899 said:

Thanks. I wonder why my garage has put 0w-40 in it. Given that that is what is in it at the moment presumably I should top up with the same stuff.

0w40 in a 50 year old design engine ! I use valoline 20w50 VR1 minerel racing oil with plenty of Zinc

And only costs around £24 for 5 litres .

If i were to use fully synthetic my choice would be millers 10 or 15w60 .

+1 but you don't want fully synthetic.

Always look for the zinc content required for a flat tappet engine.

[miller1899]

Why do I not want fully synthetic? (Genuine question. I wouldn't have a clue.)

[haircutmike]

Ah, I'm glad you asked that.

Now we need a techy for the difinitive answer!

All I know is that the design of the engine needs zinc additives, (which most oils don't have).

[Englishman]

Old thread, good advice - http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=237...

[carsy]

I dont think there is anything wrong with synthetic oil of the right viscosity. Thicker rather than thinner. I think there is o lot of twoddle talked about oil and i for one am not convinced about the zddp argument. Rv8's were eating camshafts back in the 70's when zddp was the norm.

Just put in a good quality of whatever around the 10w 40 or 50 mark and change it regularly. You will never get a straight answer on the oil debate.

I'm not convinced on the running in theory of new engines on mineral either. After all it doesnt happen with all the millions of euro boxes.

[SILICONEKID340HP]

I know that you can do more miles between oil changes with the fully synthetic stuff but i don`t do the mileage in a year to justify spending that type of money .

I just do the oil change spring time each year .

Another good choice is Millers Semi synthetic 20w60 raceing oil and Penrite 15w60 semi synthetic

This is a good site with good prices.

http://www.fluidsinmotorsport.co.uk/

[Defcon5]

TVR500Morgan said:

+1 with Silicone 0w-40 is too thin for a RV8 it's a 50 year old engine design. I use 10w-40 in TVR RV8's.

They are both the same when warmed up

[TVR500Morgan]

Defcon5 said:

TVR500Morgan said:

+1 with Silicone 0w-40 is too thin for a RV8 it's a 50 year old engine design. I use 10w-40 in TVR RV8's.

They are both the same when warmed up

From personal experiance I've learn't not to put thin grade oils in what is basically a 1950's buick engine with 1950's machined tolerances. It's the cold start up period when the engine is at it's most vunerable point and a 0W is too thin. As smartypants says though everybody has their own opinions on the oil debate. A general rule of thumb would be thicker is safer than thin.

[haircutmike]

TVR500Morgan said:

From personal experiance a general rule of thumb would be thicker is safer than thin.

So a bit like toast, (or wimmin).

[TVR500Morgan]

haircutmike said:

TVR500Morgan said:

From personal experiance a general rule of thumb would be thicker is safer than thin.

So a bit like toast, (or wimmin).

[TVR Thunder]

+1 For Millers 20/60 semi-synthetic. before my re-build she lived on Mobil 1 0/40 from new. Oil pressure was around 30 on cold start then down to 15ish when hot! she wasnt the quietest of engines either.

Since my re-build with the Millers, she now sits at 40 cold, and 30 hot, even after a good ragging! although the oil pressure light takes 2 seconds to go out on turning her over now where before was almost instant.

[JamesK]

One of the age old questions

There are various views but in reality our engines are very agricultural. We also live in a pretty crappy climate so cold starting is a factor in my opinion. A thicker oil will also help with some tappety engines if that is a consideration.

For what it's worth TVRPower, who effectively originally built these and just rebuilt mine, use mineral oil for running in and 10w 40 semi-synthetic oil after that. That's good enough for me.

[LordGrover]

Interesting read here: click.

[miller1899]

Thanks all for the replies. Sorry for the delay but I managed to lock myself out (of Pistonheads, not my flat).

I do tend to drive it through the winter, but only every couple of weeks to keep it all turning over, so would have thought I need 0 or quite low.

Will have a read and a think.

ta