Clutch master cylinder replacement

[MrMCI]

Quick technical question....

My clutch master is weeping and it has always felt a bit rough when hot. I have just had the clutch lever arm go so I am going to renew the slave and master at the same time. Not worried about the slave but are there any tips for getting the master off?

1) Does it screw onto the back of the clutch peadal or do I need to get the pin out of the pivot....if so how?

2) Secondly the lower mounting bolt looks like a pig to get to, can you get a socked with an extension onto it or do I need to get a spanner welded up with a 90degree joggle to get around the cylinder itself?

Cheers guys,

Mark

[SSPPGG]

the threaded portion willl undo, but mine has a clip around the clecis bolt which you have to unclip before you can see the nut.

the lower bolt is awkward. a 13mm long socket, short extension and a non ratchetting 3/8 drive worked for me.

[Colin RedGriff]

I used a 1/4" drive socket short extension and ratchet and I tie wrapped the ratchet to the reservoir to keep it in place while I was in the footwell.

[MrMCI]

Done....thanks for the advice.....the cable tieing a ratchet to the master cylinder was a huge help. Cheers

[Pete500]

What bore is the clutch master cylinder? And should anybody happens to know what bore the rear caliper is (on a 500)? Per

[MrMCI]

Hi Pete,

Sorry I can't get a super accurate measurement as I can't figure out the piston is held inside the cylinder.

It must be pretty close to 0.7" - about 18.4mm

Pretty hard to measure as I had to keep pushing the piston back.

As a message to everyone I bought the slave and master when I miss diagnosed the lever arm problem however....I am surprised how much it has been weeping. Dont think it would have lasted much longer. It may be worth just having a poke around the rubber boot on the clutch slave next time you have your head down at the bottom of the footwell, it could save you with a failed clutch and fluid all over your carpets.

Mark

[Pete500]

Thnx Mark!
Per