Oil Pump Priming after oil + filter change 4.3 Griff
Discussion
Could somebody experienced in servicing the Griff early Rover V8s enlighten me as to procedure / peculiarities with regard to oil priming difficulties.
I once had the misfortune to visit a workshop when a Griff wouldnt self-prime following oil change, despite filter brim full of oil (observed) - engineer had to load filter with grease, which I have to say alarmed me somewhat considering how picky we all are when it comes to oil spec (residual melted grease mixing with new oil) - Car was not worn in any way having covered less than 10k miles and original manuf pressure.
What is the current opinion for top 3 oil make and spec choices for road use only (wont be driven in ambient below 10 c and runs at top of acceptable heat range, and original single fan)- looking for an oil which will withstand v high temps without much loss of performance / pressure
I once had the misfortune to visit a workshop when a Griff wouldnt self-prime following oil change, despite filter brim full of oil (observed) - engineer had to load filter with grease, which I have to say alarmed me somewhat considering how picky we all are when it comes to oil spec (residual melted grease mixing with new oil) - Car was not worn in any way having covered less than 10k miles and original manuf pressure.
What is the current opinion for top 3 oil make and spec choices for road use only (wont be driven in ambient below 10 c and runs at top of acceptable heat range, and original single fan)- looking for an oil which will withstand v high temps without much loss of performance / pressure
Lone Granger said:
Could somebody experienced in servicing the Griff early Rover V8s enlighten me as to procedure / peculiarities with regard to oil priming difficulties.
I once had the misfortune to visit a workshop when a Griff wouldnt self-prime following oil change, despite filter brim full of oil (observed) - engineer had to load filter with grease, which I have to say alarmed me somewhat considering how picky we all are when it comes to oil spec (residual melted grease mixing with new oil) - Car was not worn in any way having covered less than 10k miles and original manuf pressure.
What is the current opinion for top 3 oil make and spec choices for road use only (wont be driven in ambient below 10 c and runs at top of acceptable heat range, and original single fan)- looking for an oil which will withstand v high temps without much loss of performance / pressure
I have had no problems when changing oil filters on my 4.3! I always pre-fill the filter of course, then get the new filter ready under the car near me having slightly loosened the old filter, then smoothly and quickly remove it I put it straight into an old bowl, then immediately on with the new, hand tighten up, all done. I understand problems occur when the old filter is removed quite early and oil is allowed to run out, thus causing problems. Regards, PeteI once had the misfortune to visit a workshop when a Griff wouldnt self-prime following oil change, despite filter brim full of oil (observed) - engineer had to load filter with grease, which I have to say alarmed me somewhat considering how picky we all are when it comes to oil spec (residual melted grease mixing with new oil) - Car was not worn in any way having covered less than 10k miles and original manuf pressure.
What is the current opinion for top 3 oil make and spec choices for road use only (wont be driven in ambient below 10 c and runs at top of acceptable heat range, and original single fan)- looking for an oil which will withstand v high temps without much loss of performance / pressure
I remove the distributor and then prime it using a drill, not necessary every time if it's a quick oil and filter change but i do it after a winter lay up and as a quick check of the timing after i do a service and it's a real kind thing to do to your engine. Mark up the dizzy before you remove and you'll be in the ball park and you can pick up an advance timing gun on ebay etc for beer tokens.
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