Gear Linkage T 5 Box - Photo Needed
Gear Linkage T 5 Box - Photo Needed
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Discussion

neutral 3

Original Poster:

7,976 posts

194 months

Saturday 7th July 2012
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Hi All, anyone have a photo ? Think one has been put on here before .

Hedgehopper

1,542 posts

268 months

Saturday 7th July 2012
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Hope these will help. I think that they're all T5, sure someone will correct me if not.

neutral 3

Original Poster:

7,976 posts

194 months

Saturday 7th July 2012
quotequote all
That's great, thanks .

Ime trying to get to the linkage to free it up, without taking out the ruddy whale tail, but it's going to have to come out !

EGB

1,774 posts

181 months

Saturday 7th July 2012
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Is the T5 box inclined to be a stiffy dhift? Can it be smoother if greased. If so how to grease?

DarkMatter

1,498 posts

255 months

Saturday 7th July 2012
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I doubt that there is much you can do to effectively lubricate the remote control without removing the whale tail. In the pictures above you'll see there are a nut/bolt at each end of the horizontal shaft which bolts to the gear lever and the stub lever on the gearbox. What is not evident is that there is a plastic sleeve through which the bolt is pushed, when you have removed the bolts you need to slide out the plastic sleeve before you can remove the shaft. There are also plastic washers between the shaft and the levers. There is also a ball joint at the bottom of the gear lever.

There is also a rod which bolts on to the bellhousing (you can see it in one of the pictures) which slides into a horizontal shaft in front of the gear lever, that could be dry/corroded or even bent if someone has tried to remove the gearbox without removing the remote mechanism first.

Looking at the above pictures you'll see that the car with the burgundy carpets has the bolt connecting the shaft to the gearbox lever fitted with the nut nearest the handbrake. I found from experience that inserting the bolt this way can cause it to come into contact with the handbrake lever causing interference when engaging reverse or fifth first or second gear - this may depend on the length of the bolt.

Edited by DarkMatter on Sunday 8th July 09:19


Edited by DarkMatter on Sunday 8th July 09:21

haircutmike

22,455 posts

228 months

Saturday 7th July 2012
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If your nylon bushes are iffy, Clev Trev sells them for a few bob and with a bit of lubricant makes a differance to the shift play and smoothness wise.

EGB

1,774 posts

181 months

Monday 9th July 2012
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Thanks Andrew and Peter. Good advice and info. What would TVR do without you !
Parkinson's advice is no bl....dy good !

SSPPGG

2,120 posts

226 months

Tuesday 10th July 2012
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neutral 3 said:
That's great, thanks .

Ime trying to get to the linkage to free it up, without taking out the ruddy whale tail, but it's going to have to come out !
ive found i can slip the handbrake cable off its bracket above the diff pretty easily, with someone assisting by pushing the lever down to free it up a little.

it makes removing the whaletail much easier than faffing with an adjustor for ages

Simon says

19,336 posts

245 months

Tuesday 10th July 2012
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haircutmike said:
If your nylon bushes are iffy, Clev Trev sells them for a few bob and with a bit of lubricant makes a differance to the shift play and smoothness wise.
Rumour as it that the same bush is used in the roof folding section where it bolts to the B pillar scratchchin so if you see a T5 car with a slick box but a floppy hoop you know why laugh

neutral 3

Original Poster:

7,976 posts

194 months

Thursday 12th July 2012
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Ime having Major agg trying to get the feckin whale tail out, to re grease the gear linkage ( and also to replace the drivers side door release cable, which went ping, early last year !). Its a job that needed doing when i bought her in early 2010, but have been putting off and off.
The heavy / slow g. change is Ime sure the reason why a Jacko in an 07 Careera 4S got the better of me after my 3 rd day of ownership and also the Very Tweaked white Sierra Saphire Cosworth, 3 up with what must have been a 20 stone driver Also got the better of me.

The reason, ime having agg is the ruddy roll over bar, (which S.H. had fitted, ) which Wont allow the whale tail to go back, ive just broken both ends of it and it looks like ime going to have to break it in half to get it clear.

To remove the roll bar is far too much agg. Any ideas ?

DarkMatter

1,498 posts

255 months

Friday 13th July 2012
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neutral 3 said:
The reason, ime having agg is the ruddy roll over bar, (which S.H. had fitted, ) which Wont allow the whale tail to go back, ive just broken both ends of it and it looks like ime going to have to break it in half to get it clear.

To remove the roll bar is far too much agg. Any ideas ?
I have to remove my roll bar too to be able to remove the whale tail. Or maybe more of a wail tail in this case :-)

I'm not sure that it would work but could you remove the handbrake and gear levers, and their leather gaiters, push the whale tail into place, then refit the handbrake and gear levers and gaiters through to holes in the whale tail?

I had planned to get hold of a cheap whale tail (with heater control panel) so that I could modify it and make a two piece one for use when the roll bar is in and then I'd replace my existing one when the roll bar is out.

neutral 3

Original Poster:

7,976 posts

194 months

Wednesday 18th July 2012
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Finally got the fecking whale tail out.... No wonder I had been putting the job off ! In the end I had to carefully peel back the Vinle cover and then put a hacksaw through the fibreglass !

Why TVR didn't make the whale tail but especially the small cover over the gear linkage out of Alloy is beyond me, the ruddy cheapskates , as I damaged the flimsy / crap cover trying to lift it up !

The gear linkage is very dry and the gear lever bushes have had it, so I will have to order some . Just hoping this improves the change and makes it faster ....