out rigger tube
Discussion
This is what I used.
The joining tube was very tight and had to be hammered down the original so I think I got it right.
A couple of tips if I may:
You'll end up with offcuts of the flat plate you use for the corner flitches, use these offcuts for spacers/strengtheners under the bolts on the inside.
Dump loads of rust cure down the original tube before you hammer in the joining tube. Just in case.
The joining tube was very tight and had to be hammered down the original so I think I got it right.
A couple of tips if I may:
You'll end up with offcuts of the flat plate you use for the corner flitches, use these offcuts for spacers/strengtheners under the bolts on the inside.
Dump loads of rust cure down the original tube before you hammer in the joining tube. Just in case.
Barreti said:
This is what I used.
The joining tube was very tight and had to be hammered down the original so I think I got it right.
A couple of tips if I may:
You'll end up with offcuts of the flat plate you use for the corner flitches, use these offcuts for spacers/strengtheners under the bolts on the inside.
Dump loads of rust cure down the original tube before you hammer in the joining tube. Just in case.
Tips...you may indeed...The joining tube was very tight and had to be hammered down the original so I think I got it right.
A couple of tips if I may:
You'll end up with offcuts of the flat plate you use for the corner flitches, use these offcuts for spacers/strengtheners under the bolts on the inside.
Dump loads of rust cure down the original tube before you hammer in the joining tube. Just in case.
looking at the pic though...that's 1.2mm of interferance fit...you sure that's right?? you must have a HUGE hammer!!
And was it ERW?
virgil said:
Barreti said:
This is what I used.
The joining tube was very tight and had to be hammered down the original so I think I got it right.
A couple of tips if I may:
You'll end up with offcuts of the flat plate you use for the corner flitches, use these offcuts for spacers/strengtheners under the bolts on the inside.
Dump loads of rust cure down the original tube before you hammer in the joining tube. Just in case.
Tips...you may indeed...The joining tube was very tight and had to be hammered down the original so I think I got it right.
A couple of tips if I may:
You'll end up with offcuts of the flat plate you use for the corner flitches, use these offcuts for spacers/strengtheners under the bolts on the inside.
Dump loads of rust cure down the original tube before you hammer in the joining tube. Just in case.
looking at the pic though...that's 1.2mm of interferance fit...you sure that's right?? you must have a HUGE hammer!!
And was it ERW?
in fact the bigger tube I.D is 0.4mm oversized 
Guys, I don't begin to understand what you're talking about I'm afraid.
I measured these tubes with a vernier. Simple as putting it across the tube for OD and pinching the wall for the thickness.
The tube measures 38mm across the centre (diameter) and the wall is 1.6mm thick, so there is a 0.4mm difference between the Internal diameter of the bigger tube and the Outside diameter of the smaller tube. A tight interference fit.
Does that mean I stated the numbers incorrectly? Because I can't work out some of the numbers discussed (2 x 1.6 = 3.2 for example - where does 2 come from?)
I'm afraid I don't know what ERW means either.
ETA: Found what ERW means. Mine did have an obvious seam.
I measured these tubes with a vernier. Simple as putting it across the tube for OD and pinching the wall for the thickness.
The tube measures 38mm across the centre (diameter) and the wall is 1.6mm thick, so there is a 0.4mm difference between the Internal diameter of the bigger tube and the Outside diameter of the smaller tube. A tight interference fit.
Does that mean I stated the numbers incorrectly? Because I can't work out some of the numbers discussed (2 x 1.6 = 3.2 for example - where does 2 come from?)
I'm afraid I don't know what ERW means either.
ETA: Found what ERW means. Mine did have an obvious seam.
Edited by Barreti on Thursday 26th July 12:51
Edited by Barreti on Thursday 26th July 12:54
Sorry - didn't mean to make it a painful discussion ;-)
ERW (Electic Resitance Welded or something like that) - basically 'normal' mild steel tubing, pretty affordable. Most normal chassis are build using it i believe. Didn't know if the TVR chassis was built using seamless, cold drawn, or high grade carbon steel...
From the measurements you took with the vernier:
outside = 38mm,
pinching the wall = 1.6mm
BUT the tube has a wall thickness all the way round, so effectively has two sides (or a top AND a bottom)...so you need to double the wall thickness when subtracting from the OD to get the ID. Hence 38mm -(2 x 1.6mm) = 34.8mm
or if it was 1.5" (38.1m) 16 guage (1.63mm) tube and and the smaller was inch and 3/8 tube (34.925mm) it's pretty much just a 0.1mm interference fit..
Still think you've just got a massive hammer...
ERW (Electic Resitance Welded or something like that) - basically 'normal' mild steel tubing, pretty affordable. Most normal chassis are build using it i believe. Didn't know if the TVR chassis was built using seamless, cold drawn, or high grade carbon steel...
From the measurements you took with the vernier:
outside = 38mm,
pinching the wall = 1.6mm
BUT the tube has a wall thickness all the way round, so effectively has two sides (or a top AND a bottom)...so you need to double the wall thickness when subtracting from the OD to get the ID. Hence 38mm -(2 x 1.6mm) = 34.8mm
or if it was 1.5" (38.1m) 16 guage (1.63mm) tube and and the smaller was inch and 3/8 tube (34.925mm) it's pretty much just a 0.1mm interference fit..
Still think you've just got a massive hammer...
and you didn't call ...
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