what use is 300 HP when griff is not handling
Discussion
Sorry to say but i have ridden a few Griffith in the last few years and i still ask myself the question what is the use of more horsepower when the car does not handle. Some Griffs i think have even dangerous handling. My question is do the experts think that a Griffith is up to more horsepower. That means in standard form. Thanks
to quote the griff manual " slow in , fast out"
I understand that it is not the best handling car in the world and TVR never said it was.
Most modern front wheel drive cars will blitz it on a corner.
I like the quirky handling (it makes my mates very scared!!!)
I have never been caught out by it though and i have had a few sideways moments.
If you keep it smooth it will reward but if you expect it to keep with a Mitsu Evo then you are mistaken.
I understand that it is not the best handling car in the world and TVR never said it was.
Most modern front wheel drive cars will blitz it on a corner.
I like the quirky handling (it makes my mates very scared!!!)
I have never been caught out by it though and i have had a few sideways moments.
If you keep it smooth it will reward but if you expect it to keep with a Mitsu Evo then you are mistaken.
Handling problems could be caused by worn or damaged suspension or poor setup. However, these cars also rely on the driver and are less forgiving of a poor or inexperienced driver than the average front wheel drive eurobox. That isn't the same as saying they have handling problems, just that they need a certain degree of skill and technique to be applied. Being relatively light, wheel-wheel-drive cars also means that in marginal conditions they have enough power to break traction quite easily, and become unstable when this happens. If the driver doesn't have the skills to recognise this, or to stay in control when it happens, it can end in tears.
Having said all that, in good conditions they have enough grip to put down all the power of the standard cars and more, and the rear wheel drive handling characteristics are very responsive and controllable once you have developed the necessary skills.
Having said all that, in good conditions they have enough grip to put down all the power of the standard cars and more, and the rear wheel drive handling characteristics are very responsive and controllable once you have developed the necessary skills.
My recently aquired 4.3 certainly keeps me entertained with its lively attitude, and I love it. However, I take note of 'Autocar' when they said the springs and dampers just need more work otherwise its 'so close to greatness it hurts'.
So its new rubbers tomorrow then new springs and dampers in the spring and then a replacement of the exhaust manifolds and then, oh sod it I'll stop there.
So its new rubbers tomorrow then new springs and dampers in the spring and then a replacement of the exhaust manifolds and then, oh sod it I'll stop there.

intrax comes from The Netherlands.My brother uses them on all his ferrari racing cars. He owns a ferrari workshop which is specialised in classic racing cars. Does P.Knapfiels thomson ferrari daytona and j. Bosch cars the owner of Barron Connor racing team. Danny Sulivan also drive for that team so i guess those Intrax shocks are as good as Ohlins. But perhaps it is only my bad driving. Could be honestly.
The right answers to this thread are already all there. GreenV8s says you need the skill. What a classy comment and it says it all.
This is the first car (Chim 4.3litre) that tells me every day that I could do well to improve my driving skills.
The Chim is a fabulous car!
Wintrading is close too when he says you need the suspension to be spot on.
If decent dampers and compatible springs ( and a proper set up) cost £500 more than mediocrity then then that is the solution. Do not faff about!
TVR have given you fabulous cars for a fifth of what the competition command.
TVR are far from perfect however you can get a supercar for a few grand. I paid £11,000. Should we not be really grateful.
Comments please!
This is the first car (Chim 4.3litre) that tells me every day that I could do well to improve my driving skills.
The Chim is a fabulous car!
Wintrading is close too when he says you need the suspension to be spot on.
If decent dampers and compatible springs ( and a proper set up) cost £500 more than mediocrity then then that is the solution. Do not faff about!
TVR have given you fabulous cars for a fifth of what the competition command.
TVR are far from perfect however you can get a supercar for a few grand. I paid £11,000. Should we not be really grateful.
Comments please!
Agree, you can't compare a TVR to a Ferrari, the latter costs 3 times as much (by the way, not all are faster than a Griff). If you add the extra cost for decent dampers, springs, bushes etc you have a super car for a VERY reasonable price.
Wintrading: why didn't you go for the Koni's specially developed by Koni race department for the Griff? They have all the settings already worked out.
Wintrading: why didn't you go for the Koni's specially developed by Koni race department for the Griff? They have all the settings already worked out.
I did not go for the koni's because my brother does business with Intrax and we can have them modified anyway we want. And i think it is not just because of the schocks but the hole package. My brother uses them for his race cars. On the other hand why should i not compare a TVR with a Ferrari. Just because they have a different price? Must say basic set up of a Griff is racy too. And some classic Ferrari's have some strange handling too i.e. 275 gtb short nose. I will figure it out. The car handles much better then it used to be but i think it can be better(changed bushes and all rubbers too). That is why i am going to rose joint the car. The same as Ohlins does. I am convinced that that will make a big change.
Me again.And as i have said in an other tread. The handling of my Griff worsen too fast. So when i renewed all bushes aand rubbers and silent blocks the handling was really very good. Felt like a Ferrari to say so. But after a while it got worse. So i renewed it all again. And again very good. That was more of the problem. That made me to believe that i need rose joints because those silent blocks wear out too fast because of the heat of the manifolds(made heatshields now) and the angle of the shocks. I also noticed that the stabi rubbers also wear out too fast. That is because it is a ford part an my brother thinks those rubbers should be made of harder rubber. So i have to change them now and then. So when all is spot on handling can be very good.
An other reason why i did not take koni's is that i am really not that convinced that a certain TVR dealer in the Netherlands is up to the job. I asked them to do a few things a few year ago and when i saw how they fixed it it almost made me cry. Had to do it all over by myself.
An other reason why i did not take koni's is that i am really not that convinced that a certain TVR dealer in the Netherlands is up to the job. I asked them to do a few things a few year ago and when i saw how they fixed it it almost made me cry. Had to do it all over by myself.
After some track tuition I was amazed at how fast it cornered. Fantastic, addictive fun.
Having said that though...
Definitly the next thing for me along with some Gaz dmapers and new springs when I can afford it.
Having said that though...
Apache said:
I put in poly bushes and had the geo adjusted, the difference was incredible
Definitly the next thing for me along with some Gaz dmapers and new springs when I can afford it.
Hallelujah.
The first place to start on a Griff is the handling.
I did the chip thing first and was still left for dead at Oulton Park by a stock engined S2 with brilliant suspension.
The Griff does have good handling (I've driven most things) but it can be improved! Oh and so can the brakes and the.............how mhuch dosh you got?
The first place to start on a Griff is the handling.
I did the chip thing first and was still left for dead at Oulton Park by a stock engined S2 with brilliant suspension.
The Griff does have good handling (I've driven most things) but it can be improved! Oh and so can the brakes and the.............how mhuch dosh you got?
not much any more!
they do handle, if you get a good un.
a bad one will just need the suspension done (as listed already) and tuned by someone like Peninsula TVR, joospeed or V8 sportscars up in scotchland somewhere
mine had 275BHP in standard form and i did fine untill the shocks etc got to about 8yrs old! not bad.
they do handle, if you get a good un.
a bad one will just need the suspension done (as listed already) and tuned by someone like Peninsula TVR, joospeed or V8 sportscars up in scotchland somewhere
mine had 275BHP in standard form and i did fine untill the shocks etc got to about 8yrs old! not bad.
I think I must be really lucky - mine is stock in the suspension department and handles very nicely indeed...provided you don't have a lead brick for a right foot.
There are better suspension dampers and springs out there but the original kit in good condition is still a good piece of work.
There are better suspension dampers and springs out there but the original kit in good condition is still a good piece of work.
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