Discussion
Looking to get the new engine installed in the car this weekend. As I'm going from pre-serp to serp, the water route is different.
The plan so far, is to blank off the output at the front of the manifold (A) - this used to run to the old timing cover, which was routed to the inlet of the water pump (as a bypass I think).
Behind point A, there is a pipe that runs the length of the manifold to the heater pipes - runs to point (C).
Point (D) is connected to point (B) by another pipe that runs the length of the manifold. I am going to route point (B) in to the bottom radiator pipe.
I spoke to John Eales earlier this week and he suggested blanking off (A) and then drilling two 1/4" holes in the thermostat to provide the bypass.
I understand the need for this, as the last thing you want in the winter (or British Summer!) is 0-10 degree water rushing from the radiator into the engine once it reaches 74 (or 82) degrees and the stat opens.
I'm assuming here that:
A - Is the original bypass, for hot water out of the manifold into the rad system.
B - Is the return from the heater matrix to the inlet of the water pump.
C - Is the inlet to the heater matrix
D - Is the outlet from the heater matrix
On the serpentine engines I think (A) is the water temp sensor location and the bypass comes out the top left front corner of the manifold?
Would anyone disagree with this idea, or think I may have the connections the wrong way around?? Would appreciate some feedback.
The plan so far, is to blank off the output at the front of the manifold (A) - this used to run to the old timing cover, which was routed to the inlet of the water pump (as a bypass I think).
Behind point A, there is a pipe that runs the length of the manifold to the heater pipes - runs to point (C).
Point (D) is connected to point (B) by another pipe that runs the length of the manifold. I am going to route point (B) in to the bottom radiator pipe.
I spoke to John Eales earlier this week and he suggested blanking off (A) and then drilling two 1/4" holes in the thermostat to provide the bypass.
I understand the need for this, as the last thing you want in the winter (or British Summer!) is 0-10 degree water rushing from the radiator into the engine once it reaches 74 (or 82) degrees and the stat opens.
I'm assuming here that:
A - Is the original bypass, for hot water out of the manifold into the rad system.
B - Is the return from the heater matrix to the inlet of the water pump.
C - Is the inlet to the heater matrix
D - Is the outlet from the heater matrix
On the serpentine engines I think (A) is the water temp sensor location and the bypass comes out the top left front corner of the manifold?
Would anyone disagree with this idea, or think I may have the connections the wrong way around?? Would appreciate some feedback.
I think your solution is much the same as I used when V8D did my engine.
I converted to Serp front end but the metal heater pipes under the inlet manifold were corroded so Shaun fitted a fir tree connector into the manifold at the back of point A and I used ACT silicon hose to feed the heater through the bulkhead and connected to the metal heater pipes above the passenger footwell.
The heater return was another length of silicon hose threaded under the inlet manifold on top of the valley gasket and returned to the radiator hose flowing back into the water pump.
Not sure how the bypass was achieved but my heater valve doesnt shut off so provides a degree of bypass (and warm feet!).
It all seems to work just fine.
I converted to Serp front end but the metal heater pipes under the inlet manifold were corroded so Shaun fitted a fir tree connector into the manifold at the back of point A and I used ACT silicon hose to feed the heater through the bulkhead and connected to the metal heater pipes above the passenger footwell.
The heater return was another length of silicon hose threaded under the inlet manifold on top of the valley gasket and returned to the radiator hose flowing back into the water pump.
Not sure how the bypass was achieved but my heater valve doesnt shut off so provides a degree of bypass (and warm feet!).
It all seems to work just fine.
Hello mate.
This is mine before it came apart totally..
This is the feed from the top hose that runs along the bulkhead round to the manifold outlet...sightly different on the serp manifold.
the bottom along the bulkhead then runs along the right side of he engine and down under the chassis rail to join up to the right hand rad pipe...that rusty bit of scrap on mine...
so i'd say point C on your diag runs to point b and point D on yours runs to the bottom rad feed which is also from the water pump...
not sure of that helps at all....
whatever way you look at it...yours is cleaner than mine...for now ;-)
This is mine before it came apart totally..
This is the feed from the top hose that runs along the bulkhead round to the manifold outlet...sightly different on the serp manifold.
the bottom along the bulkhead then runs along the right side of he engine and down under the chassis rail to join up to the right hand rad pipe...that rusty bit of scrap on mine...
so i'd say point C on your diag runs to point b and point D on yours runs to the bottom rad feed which is also from the water pump...
not sure of that helps at all....
whatever way you look at it...yours is cleaner than mine...for now ;-)
Edited by virgil on Thursday 26th July 23:54
Gassing Station | Griffith | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff