Manifold removal
Discussion
I'm getting a 'ticking' noise from my right hand manifold that indicates either failed exhaust gasket or cracked manifold on my Griff 500.
The lower nuts holding the manifold onto the head look pretty inaccessible - does anyone have any hints or tips on their removal? Is access any better if I get the car up on ramps and go in from below?
The lower nuts holding the manifold onto the head look pretty inaccessible - does anyone have any hints or tips on their removal? Is access any better if I get the car up on ramps and go in from below?
I removed mine recently. The bottom one at the back can also be accessed from above. You can get a 14mm socket and small racket on it, but you don't get musch swing as the fuel pipes are in the way.
The three front bottom ones will have to be accessed from below. Stick the car on some axle stands and crawl in. I managed with a 14mm socket and ratchet driver, and a 14mm ring / open ended spanner.
I noticed on Tiny's car that the original bolts have been replaced with ones that have a 10mm hex which then flares out to approx 16mm flange. He had his changed at Penninsula, so I would be worth giving them a call to buy a set, so when you stick them back on you will find it much easier if you ever have the misfortune of doing the job again.
Also, buy new manifold gaskets, smear them with a LIGHT coating of RTV silcone, and tape them onto the manfiolds using the bridge between each pair of headers to make it much easier reassembling everything.
The three front bottom ones will have to be accessed from below. Stick the car on some axle stands and crawl in. I managed with a 14mm socket and ratchet driver, and a 14mm ring / open ended spanner.
I noticed on Tiny's car that the original bolts have been replaced with ones that have a 10mm hex which then flares out to approx 16mm flange. He had his changed at Penninsula, so I would be worth giving them a call to buy a set, so when you stick them back on you will find it much easier if you ever have the misfortune of doing the job again.
Also, buy new manifold gaskets, smear them with a LIGHT coating of RTV silcone, and tape them onto the manfiolds using the bridge between each pair of headers to make it much easier reassembling everything.
Martin_S said:
No, RHS is driver's side, Steve - it's a right hand drive UK car - which looks even more constricted than the passenger side! Will the cranked spanners still do the job, do you know?
The right hand side is the passenger side when looking at the engine from the front, the left hand side is the drivers side when looking at the engine also from the front which you can access all the bolts from the top of the engine bay the last one neerest the bulk head above the starter is a ba
which you will require a small stubby spanner 
stesrg said:
Martin_S said:
No, RHS is driver's side, Steve - it's a right hand drive UK car - which looks even more constricted than the passenger side! Will the cranked spanners still do the job, do you know?
The right hand side is the passenger side when looking at the engine from the front, the left hand side is the drivers side when looking at the engine also from the front which you can access all the bolts from the top of the engine bay the last one neerest the bulk head above the starter is a ba
which you will require a small stubby spanner
And the top of the car is the bottom of the car when looking at it from underneath, I guess? If someone told you to turn right, which way do you steer?
...remind me not to volunteer to be your navigator if you ever take up rallying! ;-)
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Hmm