Replacing wiper spindle wheel boxes

Replacing wiper spindle wheel boxes

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Discussion

dnb

Original Poster:

3,330 posts

256 months

Sunday 9th September 2012
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What do I have to remove from a Griff to do this? I suspect it's the plenum and windscreen in order to get to all the rivets that hold the wiper mount panel on. Can anyone confirm this or let me know an easier way?

I've done the trick to wear out the other side of the wheel boxes already.

Thanks

The AJP Griff

4,360 posts

269 months

Monday 17th September 2012
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Hi Dave,I had to look into this myself recently,fortunately I didnt need to do it in the end as it was a weak refurbed wiper motor that threw me a bit!
There are a couple of different set ups depending on the year of the car.On mine(93 year) the perforated scuttle plate needed removing and a panel underneath which is pop riveted and bonded and runs accross the back of the engine bay needed to be removed. Apparently on later cars they can be accessed from inside by removing the dash but I couldnt confirm this.

BliarOut

72,863 posts

253 months

Monday 17th September 2012
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Adrian Venn's refurbed motors are ace biggrin I must have stripped my rack and motor half a dozen times to try and sort mine, a motor and rack from Adrian finally sorted it good and proper.

Two tips from the man, check your washer non return valve and never operate the wipers without the engine running.

The problem is very unlikely to be the spindles...

dnb

Original Poster:

3,330 posts

256 months

Wednesday 19th September 2012
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Fairly sure it is the spindles... The wipers can be moved by 30 degrees or so before they engage on the wire thingy, and there isn't a problem making them move - It's rather the opposite - stopping them tangling themselves up. Remember my Griff has more mileage on it than most.

BliarOut

72,863 posts

253 months

Wednesday 19th September 2012
quotequote all
Have you turned them through 180 degrees?

ETA:

Assuming you've not actually lost any teeth on the pinions this should give you completely new wear surfaces.

Remove wiper arms

Withdraw the wiper motor and rack and turn both spindles through 180 degrees.

Pop the top off the motor and turn the rack drive over so you present the other unworn face to the spindles.

Grease, reassemble and enjoy biggrin

If the rack is completely worn out, new ones are available.

I can do all that in about twenty minutes these days, but I've had far too much practice hehe

That's gotta be worth a go before you try to extract the spindles yes

Edited by BliarOut on Wednesday 19th September 11:53

dnb

Original Poster:

3,330 posts

256 months

Wednesday 19th September 2012
quotequote all
dnb said:
I've done the trick to wear out the other side of the wheel boxes already.
From the first post...


BliarOut

72,863 posts

253 months

Wednesday 19th September 2012
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Oh yeah, so you have getmecoat

In that case, good luck hehe

Simon says

19,173 posts

235 months

Wednesday 19th September 2012
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What condition is the drive cable where the wheel box teeth engage?

Hoover.

5,992 posts

256 months

Thursday 20th September 2012
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^^^^^^ electrical problem throws Harry Potter... shout News....

Dave hope it's a simple fix.... but keep us posted, as info is good smile

dnb

Original Poster:

3,330 posts

256 months

Thursday 20th September 2012
quotequote all
BlairOut: Sorry I was a little terse. Was stuck in a boring meeting trying to not be caught posting on PH with my phone. wink I've actually found a few less worn teeth, so have arranged the wipers to have less slop when they are near the park position so they don't try to wipe the bonnet. I don't think there are missing teeth, just everything is very worn.

The cable is getting worn out, but it was new relatively few miles ago (not used the car as much as I would like since 2009 frown ) so has worn out extremely quickly illustrating to me more is required than a replacement.

I don't believe there's an electrical problem (had those in the past) since the wipers don't do the characteristic thing of stopping mid wipe unless one of them tries to overtake the other, usually on high speed setting, but increasingly happening now on low speed...

dnb

Original Poster:

3,330 posts

256 months

Monday 5th November 2012
quotequote all
Finally had a bit of time, so bit the bullet and stripped out the wiper wheel boxes.

The job wasn't as bad as I thought (many thanks to the chaps at Surface and Design who offered some really good advice)

Car now looks like this:


I have even found the source of the mystery leak - the dam around the air vent to the screen was not bonded fully, so allowed the water that tends to collect in this section to get in to the passenger foot well. Going to try to come up with a better way to seal the bonnet hinge parts and wiper spindles since this is where the leak originates.

More pictures of the removed section when it's been cleaned up.

Finally, does anyone have a source for a pair of Lucas 72965 wheel boxes? They are 60.5mm long and have 40 teeth on the gear.

jesfirth

1,743 posts

256 months

Monday 5th November 2012
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does the perforated metal sheet actually do anything - other than for looks? - i was thinking of removing mine to ditch yet more weight

NOTAFINGA

19,173 posts

235 months

Tuesday 6th November 2012
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dnb said:
Finally had a bit of time, so bit the bullet and stripped out the wiper wheel boxes.

The job wasn't as bad as I thought (many thanks to the chaps at Surface and Design who offered some really good advice)

Car now looks like this:


I have even found the source of the mystery leak - the dam around the air vent to the screen was not bonded fully, so allowed the water that tends to collect in this section to get in to the passenger foot well. Going to try to come up with a better way to seal the bonnet hinge parts and wiper spindles since this is where the leak originates.

More pictures of the removed section when it's been cleaned up.

Finally, does anyone have a source for a pair of Lucas 72965 wheel boxes? They are 60.5mm long and have 40 teeth on the gear.
Dnb these guys may be able to help http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/category/Windscreen_Was...

clive f

7,250 posts

247 months

Tuesday 6th November 2012
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Hoover. said:
^^^^^^ electrical problem throws Harry Potter... shout News....

Dave hope it's a simple fix.... but keep us posted, as info is good smile
rofl

dnb

Original Poster:

3,330 posts

256 months

Tuesday 6th November 2012
quotequote all
Thanks for the pointer to CBS. Most useful, even if it means I have to make up hybrid parts. smile

The bushes TVR used simply aren't up to the task of holding the wiper spindles in place.
This is what mine ended up looking like - chewed by the fibreglass and undesirable wiper spindle motion:



They've attempted to escape through the fibreglass and have made quite a mess of it - they are fairly soft material, and very thin section, so really aren't up to the job. So I made some improved bushes out of some plastic bar. Here they are trial fitted to the removed fibreglass section: Still a bit of shaping left to do, but so far, so good.



The metalwork that sits on the top is supposed to add stiffness to the panel, but I can't see that it does. What it does do is support the bonnet and stop it rattling. I am tempted to not put it back, or at least change the design a bit. Now looking at how I can improve the bonnet hinge to stop that causing leaks...

BliarOut

72,863 posts

253 months

Tuesday 6th November 2012
quotequote all
Can you fit some sort of strut brace (for want of a better description) underneath before you put the assembly back in situ?

Piccies of it going in would be ace in case mine ever have to some out. The housings do feel pretty flimsy!

dnb

Original Poster:

3,330 posts

256 months

Tuesday 6th November 2012
quotequote all
That's effectively what I've done. I don't think it needs to span both the wheel boxes since the curve in the fibreglass is sufficiently strong to maintain shape away from the individual wheel boxes themselves. I can't rock the spindles by hand now, whereas I could with the old mounting scheme.

Next job is to properly duct the dash and floor air vents and fill the remaining void with polyurathane foam - should be good as both sound and heat insulation from the engine bay. It'll also not let water get in to it... Got to be better wink

NOTAFINGA

19,173 posts

235 months

Tuesday 6th November 2012
quotequote all
That will be a pukka job i reckon.