Best chassis paint in engine bay... to take the heat....
Best chassis paint in engine bay... to take the heat....
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Discussion

TVR Beaver

Original Poster:

2,874 posts

204 months

Sunday 28th October 2012
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With my engine out I can get stuck into cleaning up the engine bay... where the manifoulds run on top of the chassis rails and where the exhaust passes down the LHS, the heat has bubbled the original powder coating..... As you can see, under the bubbles there is no rust so got it in time smile but obviously want to put something back that's better...
Have used POR15 on the outriggers but not sure if it will take the heat?... anything recommended at all smile cheers




yellowgriff

1,429 posts

206 months

Sunday 28th October 2012
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Any 2k paint and primer will do .. Buy the best paint you can afford ,

TVR Beaver

Original Poster:

2,874 posts

204 months

Sunday 28th October 2012
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Got to say, the front arms were done in 2 pack 2 years ago and are standing up well (as you can see in the pic)... but at the time I sprayed it on?... I think here I'll have to brush it... can you brush 2 pack?

carsy

3,019 posts

189 months

Sunday 28th October 2012
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Cant help with the paint but when i finished mine i wrapped those top rails with some heat reflective material to help out with the heat.

TVR Beaver

Original Poster:

2,874 posts

204 months

Sunday 28th October 2012
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Ian... yes I've seen a pic of that somewhere... was thinking the same myself... but the question I had was does it hold water that will be held on the tube rolleyes

MPoxon

5,329 posts

197 months

Sunday 28th October 2012
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Engine out??? What's going on?

TVR Beaver

Original Poster:

2,874 posts

204 months

Sunday 28th October 2012
quotequote all
Its winter time and I just wanted to clean up in there wink

GasMunkey

5,697 posts

203 months

Sunday 28th October 2012
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I'm in the same boat as you, I'm going to use a metal paint in the same colour as what's there already, 2 pack will require a lot of prep work IMO

Where as metal paint is abit thicker and will fill up the tiny blemishes

carsy

3,019 posts

189 months

Sunday 28th October 2012
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This question was always at the back of my mind and i did ponder it for a while. I have recently checked under it and its fine. Having said that mine is rarely if ever out in the rain.

The ideal like you say will be to find paint that will take the heat. Mine was powder coat though and as you can see from yours the exhaust will just take it in time.

MPoxon

5,329 posts

197 months

Sunday 28th October 2012
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I was going to say surely not a new engine you already have a sorted engine in yours. smile

Simon says

19,335 posts

245 months

Sunday 28th October 2012
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carsy said:
Cant help with the paint but when i finished mine i wrapped those top rails with some heat reflective material to help out with the heat.
Same here no regrets 6 years + don't see much weather or salt action to worry, although as of late car not seen much of anything full stop frown interestingly the POR 15 next to the cat (cross brace) discoloured but never peeled or flaked when I had one fitted scratchchin

TVR Beaver

Original Poster:

2,874 posts

204 months

Sunday 28th October 2012
quotequote all
Yes.. I do like my set up now.... but it chatters on the over-rum at around 1300 rpm.. Rob's 100% sure it's piston to pin so I'm in for a look... depending what I find will determine the way I go with regards to bore size.... It could be a £380 piston job... .or a lot more if I need to re-size rolleyes
anyway... we'll see what I find smile

GTRene

21,046 posts

248 months

Sunday 28th October 2012
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maybe you can use something like this? its in white or black but maybe not heat resistance enough?

http://www.agriemach.com/c319/ceramic-insulation/p...

Lizardskin...also anti rust and or moist.

or maybe this? this one can handle 760c

http://www.holden.co.uk/displayproduct.asp?pCode=0...

said:
POR-15 Factory Manifold Paint - Gray
POR-15 Exhaust Manifold Gray paint is a high temperature gray paint capable of withstanding extreme temperatures up to 1400F (760C). This heat resistant paint will maintain a durable iron gray colour and won't burn off. Can be used on all cars, domestic or foreign, and meets or exceeds properties and requirments of MIL-C-13370. POR-15 Exhaust Manifold Paint can be brushed or thined down for spraying using POR-15 Solvent (094.927)
Edited by GTRene on Sunday 28th October 22:59

TVR Beaver

Original Poster:

2,874 posts

204 months

Saturday 17th November 2012
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My go the POR15 and rad enamel on top to get the white.... any other sugestions??

How much metalwork is there in the engine bay !! eek

there must be about 30 meters of the stuff!.. it's going to take ages!!!! weeping

blitzracing

6,419 posts

244 months

Saturday 17th November 2012
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I really like this stuff, but it is silver. It seems to have a very high metal content so it layers up nicely, and does not seem to be porous like the "VHT " paints that go on complete matt. Its a satin type finish, and with some careful masking would go along side the white quite nicely.



http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/130643449437?ssPageName=...

TVR Beaver

Original Poster:

2,874 posts

204 months

Saturday 17th November 2012
quotequote all
Cheers Mark... but your right.. it's silver.....

I need something that will go on the cleaned metal... but also on the powder where I've not removed it as it's solid... How do you key POR 15 to the powder?.. I must have done it before rolleyes

So I've got a good start now... taken me about 6 hours but all the loose / bubbled bits are off. It's all de-greased.... and I've got the metal back to a nice shiny finish...... and gone a bit mad as I've done more than I thought in places because there was a small scratch or something laugh

What next?? laugh... Pub I guess!!





Edited by TVR Beaver on Saturday 17th November 20:32

GTRene

21,046 posts

248 months

Saturday 17th November 2012
quotequote all
looks almost like a stainless steel chassis so clean...

there are also some good heat resisted alu or zinc-sprays...some can handle high temps say 600c and are good against corrosion, apply some layers and then it has to dry about 24h I believe...
maybe a good ground for the chassis.

Edited by GTRene on Saturday 17th November 22:00

TVR Beaver

Original Poster:

2,874 posts

204 months

Saturday 17th November 2012
quotequote all
yes... the powder although bubbled had not actualy split.. so you could scrape it off and it looked almosed galvanised underneath!...
question is.. do I take it all off... or can I patch it up and then top coat it White with rad paint or something?..

How I'd love to get the chassis out and get the full thing done rolleyes

One day!! smile

GTRene

21,046 posts

248 months

Saturday 17th November 2012
quotequote all
I think it looks way to good to do a body off...

I would do it as you suggested, sounds good to me and then maybe some years later when you need another big update (say engine/drive-train etc) then do it all in one time.

I see you also have some outrigger protection rubber shield? nicely done.

Edited by GTRene on Saturday 17th November 23:29

TVR Beaver

Original Poster:

2,874 posts

204 months

Sunday 18th November 2012
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Yes... did a body lift about 4 years ago... did all the outriggers back to metal then POR15'd them.. they are solid... made the guards at the same time but TBH once POR15's on there nothings getting through!...

You are right... the rest of the chassis is mint so I can't justify a full body off... but just want it to be the best I can get it...

Whould hate to put it all back in a find the paint bubbling after the first few runs... smile


Not the best pic but you get the idea... removed in seconds.. bolts onto the front body mount and screws into an insert in the inner wing..
.

.


Edited by TVR Beaver on Sunday 18th November 12:16