Removing Exhaust Manifolds & Winter Jobs
Discussion
Hi guys, have taken car off the road for a couple of months to carry out some work. Main job is replacing the inner wing heat shields and whilst manifolds and 'Y' piece off shall get them grit blasted to get rid of the crusty flaky stuff which I believe is the residue of a previous owners paint! Believe I mentioned on an earlier reply to a post that I was going to apply liberal coats of WD40 to the cleaned manifold etc, and reapply as required. Anyway, read all the horror stories about trying to remove the bolts (especially the offside/RH ones). I studied the problem and prior to carrying out the operation made up a couple of special tools! I bought a combination spanner of the correct size (9/16 AF), cut it in half, used some 16mm steel rod (250 mmm long), bored into the end to accept the spanner shaft, bent the rod to form a long cranked handle, fitted the spanner into the end and 'crimped' it into place. Now, having the option of ring and open end was great. I also had at my disposal a 9/16 AF 'S' spanner and a small 1/4 drive ratchet with an appropriate socket. Well, within an hour I had jacked the car up and easily and quickly removed all the bolts from the R/H manifold! The long cranked spanners were great, enabling me to get up underneath ad loosen the bolts, I followed this with removing the bolts up top using either the 'S' spanner or 1/4 ratchet. I shall post pictures of my special tools soon. Shall update this post as work proceeds. If anyone is interested in the special tools once I have posted picture, I can send through details. All the best, Pete
Pete, I am also very interested in seeing what you came up with. I have recently done the nearside, what a pig of a job. I also ended up buying two off 9/16 spanners and then clamped a long masonry drill bit to the spanners - still a pig though! My advice to doing the nearside is to remove the exhaust, I didn't and it made it ten times as hard. V. interested in the pics. Pete
Hi guys, pics of tools as promised:
1. Special tools I made - 9/16 combination spanner, cut in half, each half mounted in a 16mm steel rod. Overall length 300mm, length of crank 200mm.
2. Other tools used - 9/16 'S' spanner (useful for using around corners) and 1/4 drive ratchet with appropriate socket.
Special tools used underneath car, 'S' spanner and ratchet used from engine compartment side.
1. Special tools I made - 9/16 combination spanner, cut in half, each half mounted in a 16mm steel rod. Overall length 300mm, length of crank 200mm.
2. Other tools used - 9/16 'S' spanner (useful for using around corners) and 1/4 drive ratchet with appropriate socket.
Special tools used underneath car, 'S' spanner and ratchet used from engine compartment side.
Before the manifold goes back on it is useful to invest in a nice set of ARP bolts with smaller head size. The ones I used have 3/8 heads and it makes the task so much easier.
With the smaller bolt head there is a lot more room to get a spanner on and more importantly actually rotate it.
With the smaller bolts you can get at all but one of them from above.
With the smaller bolt head there is a lot more room to get a spanner on and more importantly actually rotate it.
With the smaller bolts you can get at all but one of them from above.
Studs in the bottom and slotting the manifolds to drop them on makes the job far easier than smaller bolts. The studs will keep the gaskets located, and since the nuts only need 1or2 turns to loosen/tighten you have very little work to do underneath (and they prevent you damaging the head threads to boot!).
You can get wasted studs to take smaller nuts even, and wired 7/16AF smaller hex headed 3/8UNC manifold bolts, all for half the price of the ARP bolts (which in many cases always seem very short in length IMHO).
You can get wasted studs to take smaller nuts even, and wired 7/16AF smaller hex headed 3/8UNC manifold bolts, all for half the price of the ARP bolts (which in many cases always seem very short in length IMHO).
spend said:
Studs in the bottom and slotting the manifolds to drop them on makes the job far easier than smaller bolts. The studs will keep the gaskets located, and since the nuts only need 1or2 turns to loosen/tighten you have very little work to do underneath (and they prevent you damaging the head threads to boot!).
You can get wasted studs to take smaller nuts even, and wired 7/16AF smaller hex headed 3/8UNC manifold bolts, all for half the price of the ARP bolts (which in many cases always seem very short in length IMHO).
I intend to use studs in the bottom locations, slotting the manifold holes to allow the location of gaskets and ease of refitting. I sourced some ideal manifold studs of 3/8 UNC, they are a Volvo part and only cost £3.85 for 10. As in my reply to a recent thread, I will NOT be using stainless fixings to secure the manifolds to the heads. As the heads are aluminium there can be a tendency for stainless to 'lock' up therefore causing potential future removal problems. I have also sourced some nice thick washers to be used along with the slightly longer (1 1/4") bolts/studs. These will not only spread the load especially across the slotted holes) but will move the bolt head away from the manifold a bit more to facilitate a more secure spanner fit. Shall keep you posted. Regards, PeteYou can get wasted studs to take smaller nuts even, and wired 7/16AF smaller hex headed 3/8UNC manifold bolts, all for half the price of the ARP bolts (which in many cases always seem very short in length IMHO).
May be useful when you start to re-assemble. Some of the bolts are difficult to re-locate and get back in - especially if you have fat hands and fingers. My special tool (patent pending) is a bit of stick and string. Hold the bolt with the string to position it in the hole, let go of string, give a light tap with stick, and then it wil be in positin and you are ready to turn the bolt.
Good luck
Good luck
red griff roger said:
May be useful when you start to re-assemble. Some of the bolts are difficult to re-locate and get back in - especially if you have fat hands and fingers. My special tool (patent pending) is a bit of stick and string. Hold the bolt with the string to position it in the hole, let go of string, give a light tap with stick, and then it wil be in positin and you are ready to turn the bolt.
Good luck
Great stuff RGR, I love the simplicity, easy to make and effective. I suggest 'World Patents Pending'. All the best, PeteGood luck
thats some expensive tool.Gassing Station | Griffith | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff