Griff wouldn't start!

[SteveGriff]

Hi Guys,
I pulled the car out of the garage today with a cold engine it struggled to re-start. It then drove perfectly for half an hour to my destination. 10 minutes later it would not start again.
It was turning over no problem but just not firing at all. 10 minutes later it started ok.
I am going to check the obvious electrical connections etc, but I just wondered if anyone could give me a headstart?
Thanks!

[SteveGriff]

Tried the search again but it's down.
The engine was turning over freely but just not firing. Is the "hot start" issue different to this? I was under the impression that the hot start fault stopped the starter motor turning?

[infinity]

Sorry about off topic, but to be honest it is getting quite annoying how often the search function is down. PH is what we all made of it and forms a treasure of data to be explored by all of us and which also generates lots of traffic (what a website is living from....), however we are not thanked for that by a functioning product.

I am an early 9-ties visor and registered member since 2000, so in all modesty, i think i have a right to say this.

Good luck with your non starting car, it sounds like an earth problem to me. Did you check the connections of the main fuse?

Tip; if you search via Google (which is ridiculous of course) if you add "Pistonheads" (and eventually "Griffith") to your search request you quite often get to where you want anyway. Don't mean to offend you if you think this is obvious....

[Moycie]

This one any use? here

Search funtion is a pain - use Google with this in the search box "site:www.pistonheads.com griffith starting problem" or similar.

[LordGrover]

Not ideal but a few google linkys here: click.

[blitzracing]

Check to see if the tacho moves at all when its failing to start- I dont know if cranking speeds will show up at all, but if it does normally, check to see what happens when it wont start- a dead tacho would indicate no ignition pulse. Also listen for the fuel pump on cranking- again if its not running the ignition pulse is missing. Likely causes would be imobiliser, ignition amp, ignition amp connections, or possibly distributor trigger head wiring.

[SteveGriff]

Thanks Guys,
I would prefer to use the search function rather post for every question.
I have been a member for a few years now and enjoyed use the search facility for the S4.
Really appreciate the info and will look into it shortly. The confusing thing is that it goes like a scalded cat when it starts.

[T1pper]

Can you hear the fuel pump priming when you turn the key on?

Maybe worth trying a few restarts of the engine as soon as it is switched off. i.e Before the alarm has time to re-activate if it starts everytime it may well be down to an imobiliser fault??

[anonymous-user]

Apols to OP, also re search, just add

site:pistonheads.co.uk

to your google search string.

Edited by anonymous-user on Wednesday 27th February 13:18

[Julesprivate]

Not at all sure if this is helpful but my understanding is that the injectors "pulse" when the key is first turned, so if the car doesn't start reasonably quickly it can flood easily. That's why it's a bad idea to keep turning the ignition on and off - not that I am suggesting this is the case here.

As long as you heard the fuel pump prime and the starter is turning it is UNLIKELY to be an imobiliser issue as the 2 ccts in the imobiliser are fuel pump and starter circuit.

Pop a plug out and see how "wet" it is...

[blitzracing]

Ive still got to check the phantom injector pulse out- I certainly did not hear the injectors pulse after multiple fuel pump cycles to check for leakage having have the injectors out for a clean, but I need to get a test meter or LED onto the injector connector. Personally Id like to check if this is true before it becomes an urban myth.

[SteveGriff]

I've just had a quick look under the bonnet.
I removed the distributor cap and rotor arm and I am frankly surprised it was running at all. The parts of the cap that the rotor arm connects with were so bad that I could remove a "crust" from each one. The rotor arm face is black and the surface is rough/pitted due to arcing.
So much for having a service before I picked it up from the garage.
I have ordered up a cap, arm, leads and coil. I know its maybe overkill but at least I know I am not fault finding with worn parts on the car.

[EGB]

SteveGriff said:

I've just had a quick look under the bonnet.
I removed the distributor cap and rotor arm and I am frankly surprised it was running at all. The parts of the cap that the rotor arm connects with were so bad that I could remove a "crust" from each one. The rotor arm face is black and the surface is rough/pitted due to arcing.
So much for having a service before I picked it up from the garage.
I have ordered up a cap, arm, leads and coil. I know its maybe overkill but at least I know I am not fault finding with worn parts on the car.

Fit the arm and cap first to see if they were the primary problem. Then fit the new leads and then the coil. Let us know when fixed. Don't wish to bleat ba ba, but sometimes TIVS do not let us know when a problem is fixed. Good luck.

[SteveGriff]

EGB said:

Fit the arm and cap first to see if they were the primary problem. Then fit the new leads and then the coil. Let us know when fixed. Don't wish to bleat ba ba, but sometimes TIVS do not let us know when a problem is fixed. Good luck.

I fitted the cap and arm, I also replaced the fuel pump relays (relays were supplied by Fernhurst).
The problem has not happened again. I will replace the coil and leads when they arrive.
Once I have had the car a while I will have a better understanding of what's been done and what can be ruled out straight away in the event of a problem.
Thanks.

[EGB]

Thanks Steve. Seems you were correct first time. Crusty Cap and arm! Hope the new ones are genuine Lucas and not those high carbon plastic Chinese ones which can short out down the shaft. Fernhurst supply should be ok. Cheers.