Discussion
Thought it'd be a good time to really give my chassis a proper seeing to - scrape all the crappy waxoyl and flakey powder coat off and re-do with por15 from Frosts.
I started on the passenger side outrigger - degreased x 2 to get the waxoyl loose, then grinding with a wire wheel in my angle grinder, revealing fairly decent tubing which when prodded with a flathead screwdriver felt really solid, but a bit flakey in a couple of places... you know whats coming next
This is the outrigger tube just behind the front wheelarch, under the footwell. And that's a 3 to 4 inch hole - after digging and digging with basically a metal spike (part of my Machinemart 'scraper' kit), the tube just crumbled to nothing.
Suitably depressed, I moved to the rear wheelarch, and after the same (admittedly harsh) treatment, I got to this
so basically in a crash, the only thing the passenger seatbelt would do is make a swooshing noise as it flys past the passenger and hits the driver on the nose Its not really visible in the pic, but there's a hole in the top of the tube (after much prodding), and the bracket for the other end of the seatbelt (and captive nut welded to the top of the outrigger) is Not Very Happy Either. What should be there in the pic (and was, kind of, before I started 
) is a two-by-six inch plate welded to the outrigger tube, to hold the seatbelt reel in place. And no holes.
I'm now looking at a body-up or body-orf jobbie (no sleeve-weld-to-rusting-stump-botches
here thankyou) - after much telephone time and a couple of hundred miles, it's going into Richard Moore Racing in Milton Keynes for full new outriggers welding to the main rails, new body mount plates, seat belt mounts etc both sides.
Just thought I'd brighten your day
On the positive side, the main rails are 100% solid, and its a precat '92 car, which has spent a lot of time in Scotland (salt/cold/grit etc), and I haven't done anything to the chassis apart from a squirt of waxoyl in the two years I've had it.
Interesting comments from the professionals are 'they all do that sir', 'they only last about 10-12 years on average', 'TVR powdercoating is known to be c
p 'cos they don't degrease the steel properly' 
I can almost hear all those jetwashes starting up around the country tomorrow
>>> Edited by andy43 on Tuesday 21st September 19:08
I started on the passenger side outrigger - degreased x 2 to get the waxoyl loose, then grinding with a wire wheel in my angle grinder, revealing fairly decent tubing which when prodded with a flathead screwdriver felt really solid, but a bit flakey in a couple of places... you know whats coming next
This is the outrigger tube just behind the front wheelarch, under the footwell. And that's a 3 to 4 inch hole - after digging and digging with basically a metal spike (part of my Machinemart 'scraper' kit), the tube just crumbled to nothing.
Suitably depressed, I moved to the rear wheelarch, and after the same (admittedly harsh) treatment, I got to this
so basically in a crash, the only thing the passenger seatbelt would do is make a swooshing noise as it flys past the passenger and hits the driver on the nose
Its not really visible in the pic, but there's a hole in the top of the tube (after much prodding), and the bracket for the other end of the seatbelt (and captive nut welded to the top of the outrigger) is Not Very Happy Either. What should be there in the pic (and was, kind of, before I started ) is a two-by-six inch plate welded to the outrigger tube, to hold the seatbelt reel in place. And no holes. I'm now looking at a body-up or body-orf jobbie (no sleeve-weld-to-rusting-stump-botches
here thankyou) - after much telephone time and a couple of hundred miles, it's going into Richard Moore Racing in Milton Keynes for full new outriggers welding to the main rails, new body mount plates, seat belt mounts etc both sides. Just thought I'd brighten your day
On the positive side, the main rails are 100% solid, and its a precat '92 car, which has spent a lot of time in Scotland (salt/cold/grit etc), and I haven't done anything to the chassis apart from a squirt of waxoyl in the two years I've had it.
Interesting comments from the professionals are 'they all do that sir', 'they only last about 10-12 years on average', 'TVR powdercoating is known to be c
p 'cos they don't degrease the steel properly' I can almost hear all those jetwashes starting up around the country tomorrow
>>> Edited by andy43 on Tuesday 21st September 19:08
you need some of these to protect the outriggers from damage by stones etc.
from Peninsula TVR. weren't expensive.
still need to clean out the corner plates etc as per steves bible.
sorry its too late for you andy43
>> Edited by Guillotine on Tuesday 21st September 21:49
>> Edited by Guillotine on Tuesday 21st September 21:50
from Peninsula TVR. weren't expensive.
still need to clean out the corner plates etc as per steves bible.
sorry its too late for you andy43
>> Edited by Guillotine on Tuesday 21st September 21:49
>> Edited by Guillotine on Tuesday 21st September 21:50
Now that looks a good idea - what's it made of - looks like aluminium sheet - think I'll be making some for front and back once the repairs are done 
unless they're really dirt cheap to buy ready made
Do you have any more pics of the plates, and how are they attached - just screwed or bolted into the fibreglass? Bdy good idea, shame noone thought of them in 1992
On the up side, I won't be worrying about getting my Griff wet when it's been re-done
unless they're really dirt cheap to buy ready made Do you have any more pics of the plates, and how are they attached - just screwed or bolted into the fibreglass? B
dy good idea, shame noone thought of them in 1992 On the up side, I won't be worrying about getting my Griff wet when it's been re-done
shut! 
andy43
ally sheet cut to size, plastic cable mounts (as in holding the air hose to inner wing) screwed to it by s/steel screws and nut, then cable tied to chassis.
NO METAL TOUCHES CHASSIS! can be snipped off for cleaning/maintenance then cable tied on again.
sorted! weren't expensive...probably cost u more to get the bits!
>> Edited by Guillotine on Wednesday 22 September 20:47
ally sheet cut to size, plastic cable mounts (as in holding the air hose to inner wing) screwed to it by s/steel screws and nut, then cable tied to chassis.
NO METAL TOUCHES CHASSIS! can be snipped off for cleaning/maintenance then cable tied on again.
sorted! weren't expensive...probably cost u more to get the bits!
>> Edited by Guillotine on Wednesday 22 September 20:47
Been to see Richard Moore & had the car in the air. As per Andy43's car the central rails are A1(kept in good condition by TVRs auto drip system), the outriggers aren't structurally poor, just slight perforation in the vicinity of welds. I have opted for complete replacement from the central rails outwards with bolts welded in for internal access.
Andy43, I'm glad you opened this can of worms as the long term safety implications & longevity of a prized possesion cannot be compromised.
Andy43, I'm glad you opened this can of worms as the long term safety implications & longevity of a prized possesion cannot be compromised.
griffdude said:
Been to see Richard Moore & had the car in the air. As per Andy43's car the central rails are A1(kept in good condition by TVRs auto drip system), the outriggers aren't structurally poor, just slight perforation in the vicinity of welds. I have opted for complete replacement from the central rails outwards with bolts welded in for internal access.
Andy43, I'm glad you opened this can of worms as the long term safety implications & longevity of a prized possesion cannot be compromised.
Sounds in a better state than mine - but define 'slight perforation' Never mind opening a can of worms, looks like someones been at my outriggers with a tin opener
I've asked about bolts in each tube as well - I'll be topping up the chassis with waxoyl every week once its done - 5 gallons of wax might screw the power-to-weight ratio up, but it'll be worth it
It'd be interesting to look and prod underneath a few other precats, just to see how bad mine really is in comparison - any pics?
Two shiny new outriggers Pics below are of the passenger side outrigger once cut out from the car. Not pretty. I've actually seen whats left of the outrigger lying outside RM Racing's workshop - frightening - no strength in the tubing at all, no seatbelt mounts to speak of - the hidden bracket that holds the 'fixed' end of the belt to the outrigger tube was useless, the plate to hold the reel end of the belt was just rust, the whole top half of the outrigger was delaminated to such an extent that the long front/back tube had fallen to bits. An accident would have been too horrific to think about. The pics Richard has taken aren't big enough to show the problems in scary detail.
Richard Moore Racing have done an absolutely superb job, the outriggers, body mount plates and seat belt mounts have all been replaced, right back to the main chassis rails. The seatbelt brackets are now 6mm steel plate - should be around for the next millenium. Its all been Por-15 spray-painted, each new tube has been filled with waxoyl-type stuff, the rest of the rust patches on the chassis have been rubbed down and por-15'd, all new body mount/seatbelt/seat bolts, the list goes on - well impressed. Even my p
ss-poor attempts at dribbly painting on the drivers side of the chassis have been tidied up, well, ok, removed completely Sorry boys - I'll stick to skirting boards and window frames in future. Promise. The doors still open perfectly, the hood still fits, there's no creaks or squeaks, and I've just driven the car back from Milton Keynes to Manchester in the p*55ing rain without a single problem. Might just be 'cos I've been driving a sloppy scooby for two weeks, but I'm sure it feels 'tighter' than it used to as well. No damage to anything anywhere - no scratches or torn trim, a couple of loose bits of carpet and that's it. Stainless brake flexies fitted, fuel hoses checked (been replaced previously), geometry all done etc etc. Me happy bunny
Can't thank RM Racing enough - they picked the car up EXACTLY when they said they would, finished it within 24 hours of when they said they would, despite my painting over all the body bolts with por-15, sent me pictures of work in progress, collected me from MK station, and spent well over an hour with me going over what's been done, and making sure I was happy with the job. They've even cleaned it.
When I get time, I'll jack the car up and post some pics of the finished job.
Griffdude - you've not a thing to worry about - I'm well impressed, chuffed to bits.
RM Racing 01908 368960
Time for more
but after I've been out to the garage again
>> Edited by andy43 on Saturday 16th October 21:14
I am reliably informed that if they were to quote for a similar job now, it will cost a fair bit more than what I paid, as it took a lot longer than estimated so maybe a couple of grand would be somewhere near
Approx 70 man-hours went into my Griffs underbelly
but being top blokes they stuck to what they had quoted me
so maybe a couple of grand would be somewhere near Approx 70 man-hours went into my Griffs underbelly
but being top blokes they stuck to what they had quoted me 
To remove the body only involves a dozen bolts, clutch/brake/fuel plumbing, and a couple of wires apparently but no, this wasn't a body-off repair. They were prepared to do it, if needed, but the rest of my chassis was in good enough shape to just need a lick of paint. I think there would have been loads of problems with a body lift anyway - seized captive bolts, electrical niggles etc. RMs welder somehow seems to be able to weld in places I couldn't even get my paintbrush 
The only non-TVR-position welds are on the tubes going up to the top rear wishbone mounts - the join has been welded maybe 1 to 2" down the original tube.
The clever bit is that the body mount plates don't go right to the corner point at which the tubes meet, so welding is possible all the way round the front/upper and all the lower tubes whereas on the original chassis the plates would prevent access. Better for letting stones/grit fall out as well. Without the re-shaped body mount plates, removing or at least lifting the body would be the only way of welding all the way round the joins. Or half-welding then finishing up with some seam sealer
Each outrigger assembly was built up, finish-welded and finally sprayed up after trial and error fitting-up to the car, then the whole lot welded to the main chassis with a final lick of paint over the welds. Captive tubes for the wishbone mounts are part of the new tubes as well - must have been tough getting the geometry, body support, and original weld points all correct, but it looks spot on, and drives great.
but no, this wasn't a body-off repair. They were prepared to do it, if needed, but the rest of my chassis was in good enough shape to just need a lick of paint. I think there would have been loads of problems with a body lift anyway - seized captive bolts, electrical niggles etc. RMs welder somehow seems to be able to weld in places I couldn't even get my paintbrush The only non-TVR-position welds are on the tubes going up to the top rear wishbone mounts - the join has been welded maybe 1 to 2" down the original tube.
The clever bit is that the body mount plates don't go right to the corner point at which the tubes meet, so welding is possible all the way round the front/upper and all the lower tubes whereas on the original chassis the plates would prevent access. Better for letting stones/grit fall out as well. Without the re-shaped body mount plates, removing or at least lifting the body would be the only way of welding all the way round the joins. Or half-welding then finishing up with some seam sealer
Each outrigger assembly was built up, finish-welded and finally sprayed up after trial and error fitting-up to the car, then the whole lot welded to the main chassis with a final lick of paint over the welds. Captive tubes for the wishbone mounts are part of the new tubes as well - must have been tough getting the geometry, body support, and original weld points all correct, but it looks spot on, and drives great.
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