Replacing the Diff bush
Discussion
Last weekend I finally got out into the garage to do a job I've been putting off since I took the diff out of the Griff last August.
This was the result of 2 days drilling, grinding, hammering and cutting
I knew it was going to be a swine of a job, and it didn't let me down.
I also got into "while I am here" mode, and started poking about at the crumbly powder coating around the chassis joints and after a couple of weeks I am finally at the position of being able to crack open the POR15 tomorrow
Thats not silver paint, its bare steel. I've scraped and gouged as much powder coat off and I can bear.
I can't tell you how much I am looking forward to getting the diff back in that hole instead of my head
This was the result of 2 days drilling, grinding, hammering and cutting
I knew it was going to be a swine of a job, and it didn't let me down.
I also got into "while I am here" mode, and started poking about at the crumbly powder coating around the chassis joints and after a couple of weeks I am finally at the position of being able to crack open the POR15 tomorrow
Thats not silver paint, its bare steel. I've scraped and gouged as much powder coat off and I can bear.
I can't tell you how much I am looking forward to getting the diff back in that hole instead of my head
Edited by Barreti on Saturday 6th April 20:08
I use the silicone spray (like for the window channels) to aid pressing it in. The cup washers from the Disco rear damper bushes are ideal for clamping the bush as you insert it BTW.
POR will be crappy on clean metal, forget their extra products, just spray a mist of water and leave a day or so to get a nice light rusting and the POR goes on great.
POR will be crappy on clean metal, forget their extra products, just spray a mist of water and leave a day or so to get a nice light rusting and the POR goes on great.
Barreti said:
A question for those of you who have done this before....
I've pressed metalastik bushes in the side brackets and will be fitting a poly bush in the rear bush
Do you grease anywhere or fit it all dry?
I use good old neat washing up liquid. Just spread it on the polybush and push into place. Unlike normal grease it will degrade and leave the bush unaffected. I keep a small bottle in the garage for all such jobs! I've pressed metalastik bushes in the side brackets and will be fitting a poly bush in the rear bush
Do you grease anywhere or fit it all dry?
A way of removing old bushes (done this just over a year ago on mine), is to use a heavy duty G clamp. I made some hard wood pieces with holes in to accept the rubber inner and sleeve, then just pushed out the rubber plus sleeve by clamping in the end (G clamp threaded cup just fits. Once the rubber is out I cut through the outer bush tube with a hacksaw blade (I have a handle that holds a blade), this the enables the sleeve to compress and be released. Done all three of mine in about a couple of hours. Replacing is easier, by using a vice for the side mounts and the G clamp again for the top. Regards, Pete.
For anyone else searching GKN diff in the future and wants information on how it goes back into its space.
Before you start, if you're using Polybush 26A for the rear bush - which I recommend - fit it and measure its overall length is not wider than the rear bracket gap.
I had to turn 5mm off the edge lips to allow it to shut together enough to fit in the bracket.
Fitting then:
I put mine on a high lift trolley jack with the offside drive flange on the jack, lifted it into the space, nearside flange up and strapped it with a sling underneath and a short rope through a front bracket bolt hole and onto the chassis. This is to stop in hitting the floor if it shifts and falls out. Then i could lower the jack out.
It then needs rotating. You can do this. There is enough space but it's tight.
You will be tempted to pull the prop flange over the round cross-chassis strut. Dont. It will only stop the diff rotating.
To rotate it I put knee pads on and used my knees to carry the weight so I could shove, wiggle and cajole the diff around with my hands. Once both drive flanges are over the square chassis legs you're laughing.
Use a pin through the rear bush. Don't bolt it yet, you might need wriggle room fitting the front brackets.
Fit the front brackets to the diff loosely. Short bracket to offside.
Then attach the bracket to the chassis. Repeat for the near side.
Replace the rear bush pin with the bolt.
Tighten up the front bracket bolts and fit the spring washer and nuts on the backs.
You're done. Have a beer. You deserve it.
Don't forget to fill it with oil !
Before you start, if you're using Polybush 26A for the rear bush - which I recommend - fit it and measure its overall length is not wider than the rear bracket gap.
I had to turn 5mm off the edge lips to allow it to shut together enough to fit in the bracket.
Fitting then:
I put mine on a high lift trolley jack with the offside drive flange on the jack, lifted it into the space, nearside flange up and strapped it with a sling underneath and a short rope through a front bracket bolt hole and onto the chassis. This is to stop in hitting the floor if it shifts and falls out. Then i could lower the jack out.
It then needs rotating. You can do this. There is enough space but it's tight.
You will be tempted to pull the prop flange over the round cross-chassis strut. Dont. It will only stop the diff rotating.
To rotate it I put knee pads on and used my knees to carry the weight so I could shove, wiggle and cajole the diff around with my hands. Once both drive flanges are over the square chassis legs you're laughing.
Use a pin through the rear bush. Don't bolt it yet, you might need wriggle room fitting the front brackets.
Fit the front brackets to the diff loosely. Short bracket to offside.
Then attach the bracket to the chassis. Repeat for the near side.
Replace the rear bush pin with the bolt.
Tighten up the front bracket bolts and fit the spring washer and nuts on the backs.
You're done. Have a beer. You deserve it.
Don't forget to fill it with oil !
Barreti said:
...You will be tempted to pull the prop flange over the round cross-chassis strut. Dont. It will only stop the diff rotating.
Thats how I do it, and it definitely works ~ If you have the diff with very big fins (that literally wrap round the chassis rails when fitted) its the only way to get the diff up into the chassis to rotate it.You cunningly didn't mention fitting the speed sensor bracket on top of the mounts (due to your precat Lt77 arrangement I guess) which I actually found to be the most awkward part
Gassing Station | Griffith | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff