How does your dash fit?

[Barreti]

Help me get to Chatsworth guys.

The pillocks who have my dash to veneer aren't returning my calls so I've no idea if I will see my dash again let alone for Chatsworth.

So I've got a dash out of storage which i had veneered last year.
Its in storage because when i went to fit it i found out it wasn't an original backing plate but a copy and the clock hole had been cut the same size as the small gauges but the clock is a couple of MM smaller than the gauges. Doh!

I was going to temporarily fit this tonight until I noticed it also hasnt got the two holes - one below right of the speedo and one below left of the rev counter - where self tapping screws hold the right hand side of the dash in.
Come to think of it, they are the ONLY thing that holds the dash in. (it's a pre-cat thing, everything is half done!)

I am sure if i try to drill the veneer then the stainless plate I will knacker the dash.

But I am not sure all dashboards have these little screws.

So, if you don't have the screws, how is the dash held in?

Cheers guys.
IanB

[Ant.]

All Griff dashes have those screw holes.

And all should have a m5 stud just above the hazard switch area onto which a wingnut fits to secure that end.....

[Barreti]

st!

[carsy]

Mine is only held in with the two screws. The wing nut on the left hand side doesnt do any securing as there is nothing behind for it to attach to. The very edge of the wing nut just about touches the dash surround edge so acts as a stop to stop you pushing the dash any further back.

Having recently had the dash out you realise what an appauling job TVR made of fitting it and also the fitting of the clocks. Mine is a pre cat.

[Colin RedGriff]

I would have thought that even without those two screws the likelihood of the dash falling out were pretty low. If it's just temporary to get you to Chatsworth then I'd have thought' you'd have been ok.

If yours is particularly loose, could you maybe make up some small wedges to go between the dash and the surrond to hold it in place?

[davep]

If it's a temporary fix you could use some meaty double sided tape on the two tangs that align with the top edge.
One poster on here designed some clamps to do the same thing.

[Barreti]

I've just stuck a magnet on the backing plate and it sticks. Which means its mild steel.
Magnets

[Ant.]

carsy said:

Mine is only held in with the two screws. The wing nut on the left hand side doesnt do any securing as there is nothing behind for it to attach to. The very edge of the wing nut just about touches the dash surround edge so acts as a stop to stop you pushing the dash any further back.

Having recently had the dash out you realise what an appauling job TVR made of fitting it and also the fitting of the clocks. Mine is a pre cat.

Yes , the wing nut does secure, there should be a repair washer too, that pulls the dash back into the main dash pod....

Believe me , had more than my fair share of Griff dash's out....

[Paxo1]

you can drive the car fine without the dash in....when I got my dash done a few years ago my griff was my everyday car so I had to keep it on the road. Sit the speedo back in where you can see it, secure with a bit of tape etc & bobs your uncle :-)

[Hoover.]

No wing nut on mine

March 92

[roseytvr]

Ian
I have a dash at home (Burton on Trent) if you want to borrow it.

[dnb]

Mine hasn't been bolted in for years. It never falls out.

[PeteGriff]

Barreti said:

I've just stuck a magnet on the backing plate and it sticks. Which means its mild steel.
Magnets

Hi Barreti, not necessarily! Lower grades of stainless is, contrary to popular belief, magnetic - induction type electric hobs rely on the magnetic properties of the 'stainless vessels'! Don't worry too much about drilling stainless mate, if you drill carefully from the back through the metal first then into the veneer with a small (say 3mm) sharp drill (about 800 rpm), then put masking tape over the front veneer surface, pierce through where hole is, drill carefully through (place onto wooden backing) increasing the drill size gradually. The sharper the drill the easier the job, just take your time and protect the parts you want to dtop from damaging! All the best, Pete

[Barreti]

Guys, as usual your generosity and help amazes me.

I thought I'd give it a go to see if the dash would friction fit into place.
Well it won't, it's at least half an inch too wide and the bottom left doesnt even look the correct profile.

That's the bad news.

The good news is I sent a stroppy email to the veneer people telling them I wanted the dash back in any state and I am coming to pick it up Thursday.
Unbelievably they emailed me yesterday to say the dash will be ready.

So it's going to be a hellish busy Saturday but weather permitting I will be at Chatsworth on Sunday.

Thanks again for your amazing offers of help and advice. I love this place.

[Barreti]

Good morning dash gurus

Great news. I picked up my old dash with a shiny new veneer yesterday.

I've already glued the studs on the back and tonight will fit the clocks.

I was wondering if anyone had useful tips for aligning everything up before gluing the brackets in.
We have bugger all wriggle room when the brackets are glued so you need to get it right first time and it's one of those OCD things which will drive me mad if one is not quite right.

Cheers guys.
IanB

[RAS]

Be careful when you fit the switches because if they are not centre they can catch the dash and stick. The important one to get spot on is the boot release as it caN stick and burn out the solenoid, I know I've been there!