battery problems
Discussion
Since a few weeks the battery goes dead quite quickely and of course the car won't start. It takes only 2 days to fully discharge. Last weekend I charged the battery, took it for a spin on the motorway for about 45 min. and (slowly) charged it afterwards for about 24 h. After the charging the meter indicated fully charged. Now, 3 days later, it's fully empty.
During driving the voltmeter indicates some 17 volts.
Am I right in concluding that the alternator works fine but the battery needs changing? Or can there be some faulty connection which drains the battery?
Only strange thing is that this problem only occured a few weeks ago, before the battery seemed fine. Does it degenerate that fast?
During driving the voltmeter indicates some 17 volts.
Am I right in concluding that the alternator works fine but the battery needs changing? Or can there be some faulty connection which drains the battery?
Only strange thing is that this problem only occured a few weeks ago, before the battery seemed fine. Does it degenerate that fast?
It could be the battery which is now faulty, how old is it?
It maybe you have a short circuit somewhere on the car thus draining the battery.
Can you loan a good battery from a friend for a couple of days. If that plays up then at least you know the faults in the car.
Purchase a battery conditioner and plug it in whenever the car is garaged.
Good luck
It maybe you have a short circuit somewhere on the car thus draining the battery.
Can you loan a good battery from a friend for a couple of days. If that plays up then at least you know the faults in the car.
Purchase a battery conditioner and plug it in whenever the car is garaged.
Good luck

Did you leave the battery in a flat condition for any length of time? If you did then it will probably have a much reduced capacity. If this is the case it will reach full charge from flat very quickly, but also go flat quickly ( just like having a very small battery fitted) This is unfortunately a feature of modern batteries. If they are left below around 11v for any time they start to degrade quite quickly and the only real solution once it has happened is replacement.
The volt meter has always been indicating around 15-17 volt when moving, so nothing changed there. Could the alternator still be misfunctioning?
What is the fuse else regulator pack and how can I check it?
What is the diode pack on alternator and how can I check it?
Battery is some 4 years old, so seems suspicious. Just strange that it deteriorated so fast; the car was sitting in the garage only for 2 weeks when the problem occured. Before, I could leave it easily for a month and it still started.
thanks a lot, guys.
What is the fuse else regulator pack and how can I check it?
What is the diode pack on alternator and how can I check it?
Battery is some 4 years old, so seems suspicious. Just strange that it deteriorated so fast; the car was sitting in the garage only for 2 weeks when the problem occured. Before, I could leave it easily for a month and it still started.
thanks a lot, guys.
spend said:
Charge battery and disconnect the alternator (big brown cable). If battery retains charge its the diode pack - this can be replaced along with brushes by competent auto-electrician.
Do ensure the battery connections and alternator fuse are good.
HTH, Dave
Did it and connected the charger, let's wait and see. Found a big brown cable in a black ribbed plastic tube connected to the red pole, guess this must be it; the only other brown cable was very thin.
Is it normal that after disconnecting the cable the alarm sounds and the interior lights go out?
All clear now: after disconnectiing and fully charging the battery, it fully decharged within 8 hours. So I obviously need a new battery; should manage to do it with Steve's book, although it doesn't sound easy.
Any suggestions which battery to buy? Bible says 072 630 amp Range Rover, but maybe there are better ones available at this moment?
Any suggestions which battery to buy? Bible says 072 630 amp Range Rover, but maybe there are better ones available at this moment?
Why is 17 volts a bad thing? As far as I can remember it has always been like this (3 years now) and never had any trouble before.
How can I check the alternator?
As I'm a 1.000 km away (France) from the nearest decent TVR dealer (haven't found any here yet), I will have to do this myself.
thanks again guys!
How can I check the alternator?
As I'm a 1.000 km away (France) from the nearest decent TVR dealer (haven't found any here yet), I will have to do this myself.
thanks again guys!
Ballistic Banana said:
Out of interest Gerjo where exactly are you in France, I have Family in Limoges, Pompadore, and Brive (and some friends in Marsielle and Bordeux). anywhere close to You??
Simon
hi Simon,
We are some 35 km. south of Brive (25 min. drive), 5 km south of Souillac. Drop by some day when you are visiting your family!
BTW battery is out, wasn't too bad.
Out is not so bad, it’s back in when the fun starts.
I bought a real cheap no-make from a local retailer, he checked a few and gave me the one with the best cranking current that would fit in the box (it didn’t have the vent tube connection). The intention was to keep me on the road while I could source a good one, but this was nearly a year ago no problems so far.
Cheers,
Simon.
I bought a real cheap no-make from a local retailer, he checked a few and gave me the one with the best cranking current that would fit in the box (it didn’t have the vent tube connection). The intention was to keep me on the road while I could source a good one, but this was nearly a year ago no problems so far.
Cheers,
Simon.
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