Discussion
I had my rad re-cored last winter by a place in Preston as I wanted to move the water inlet pipe to where the switch usually lives. They talked me into a 3 row (I think) instead of the 4 row I had, saying 'it will actually be better as they are a bigger cross section'?.... but have notice this weekend that its not as efficient as the last one for sure... On the motorway at 70's 
its fine.. but even dropping down into the 50 area of average speed cameras I could see the needle starting to creep up a tad..
The fans do pull it back but it does appear to take longer...
Does anyone else see this and can I just put it down to the 30 deg weather today?
Great Growl as usual BTW... I just need to deal with sunburn now
its fine.. but even dropping down into the 50 area of average speed cameras I could see the needle starting to creep up a tad..The fans do pull it back but it does appear to take longer...
Does anyone else see this and can I just put it down to the 30 deg weather today?
Great Growl as usual BTW... I just need to deal with sunburn now
I have a 82 stat fitted so it was 80-82 on the motorway.. going to 88 when 1 fan comes in and 90 when both come in... it does appear to retain the heat more than the old one... even slowing to come off the motorway and onto the next I could see it go up a few deg...
I've always had problems keeping it warm before
I've always had problems keeping it warm before
Mine showed its normal temp on the gauge on the way to the Growl but this was at 7, 8am. On the way back home at about 5pm it was seriously hot and it ran considerably hotter and this was at motorway speeds. The gauge was at the point where my fans come on and i have them set to come on at 93 degree. So guess it was running at about this at 70, 80mph.
Mine is however a pre cat and the nose does not get as much air through as the 500`s. Due to this i have decided to fit a splitter to get some air through the rad.
I bet most cars would have run hotter than normal as it was seriously hot over the weekend.
Mine is however a pre cat and the nose does not get as much air through as the 500`s. Due to this i have decided to fit a splitter to get some air through the rad.
I bet most cars would have run hotter than normal as it was seriously hot over the weekend.
Eeeek.. 93 @ 70!... what am I complaining about
I'm guessing its all about temperature differentials but they do hold a lot of heat in for sure!.. from 82 @ 70 to coming off the slip road and stopping for 10 seconds, the fans were on (90 switch for both)...
I must check my water and oil levels... they can take a hammering in those temps!
Didn't you have your inlet pipe moved down like I've done?... I did wonder if its created a bit of a dead area at the top??...
I'm guessing its all about temperature differentials but they do hold a lot of heat in for sure!.. from 82 @ 70 to coming off the slip road and stopping for 10 seconds, the fans were on (90 switch for both)...
I must check my water and oil levels... they can take a hammering in those temps!
Didn't you have your inlet pipe moved down like I've done?... I did wonder if its created a bit of a dead area at the top??...
Yes, also had my inlet pipe moved down a bit. I cant see that making any difference John. I dont think the temps you saw are a problem at all.
My car has never run as hot as it did at weekend (all motorway) but we dont often have weather that hot. I would say your car acted normally for the conditions and nothing to worry about. Since getting back i have checked my water level and it hasnt moved.
As much as i like the pre cat nose it isnt the best for getting air to the rad. So just in case this weather extends for more than a few days, its off the B&Q for some guttering and splitter time.
My car has never run as hot as it did at weekend (all motorway) but we dont often have weather that hot. I would say your car acted normally for the conditions and nothing to worry about. Since getting back i have checked my water level and it hasnt moved.
As much as i like the pre cat nose it isnt the best for getting air to the rad. So just in case this weather extends for more than a few days, its off the B&Q for some guttering and splitter time.
still noticing this and the fact its not as good as the last one.. and I am starting to wonder about the pipe move creating a dead area at the top... I guess it may depend on the pump and if it pushes water through the rad or pulls it through?.. if it pushes it should work okay.. but if it pulls it, why would the water go up first?...
does anyone know how the pump works ???
does anyone know how the pump works ???
It pushes coolant into the block ~ obviously an 'opposite & equal' pull from the rad.
Forget pipe size / routing ~ they are insignificant when you compare them to the restrictions of the stat & waterways in the block.
IR the temps across the rad (top hose - bottom hose stubs) to see how well the rad is working.
Forget pipe size / routing ~ they are insignificant when you compare them to the restrictions of the stat & waterways in the block.
IR the temps across the rad (top hose - bottom hose stubs) to see how well the rad is working.
Dave
The problem is I've had the infeed pipe moved down to where the switch screws in and the switch moved up to where the pipe is now as it was compressing the air pipe especialy when the water pipes fitted... Didn't think it would matter as hot water rises etc... but if its being pulled out of the rad, maybe the bit in the top is not moveing as much as it did and has in effect reduced the size of the rad????... TBH I can't see it doing this but the guy's at Aarin rads say it will make a big differance??
I think its more likely to be 3 rows instead of the 4 row I had before??
This is the set up now............
The problem is I've had the infeed pipe moved down to where the switch screws in and the switch moved up to where the pipe is now as it was compressing the air pipe especialy when the water pipes fitted... Didn't think it would matter as hot water rises etc... but if its being pulled out of the rad, maybe the bit in the top is not moveing as much as it did and has in effect reduced the size of the rad????... TBH I can't see it doing this but the guy's at Aarin rads say it will make a big differance??
I think its more likely to be 3 rows instead of the 4 row I had before??
This is the set up now............
Edited by TVR Beaver on Wednesday 17th July 18:49
spend said:
Looks like having the top hose dropped down only uses 2/3 - 3/4 of the rad in anger, as well as the 4 -> 3 rows....
In retrospect you should have just had the top hose stub set at an angle to clear the induction?
Hi Chris, Spend is correct that arrangement of pipe will cause an issue with correct flow of the coolant, in effect almost negating what looks like a 1/4 of your rad cooling? There is probably cooler spots on that area, do some temperature measurements with a probe type digital thermometer and assess the temperatures across the rad. Regards, PeteIn retrospect you should have just had the top hose stub set at an angle to clear the induction?
I get your point, but why.. hot water will rise in the rad I would have thought. std central heating rads are connected at both bottom corners and the heated water goes in a inverted U around the outside of the rad eventualy warming up the bottom middle areas... with the tubes in these going accross the rad and not up and down, I would have thought it would pull accross from the plentyfull supply down the LHS over its length?
I'll try take some readings but will have to be stoped to do it... and whats the expected outcome?.. hot top or cold top??... all very interesting
I'll try take some readings but will have to be stoped to do it... and whats the expected outcome?.. hot top or cold top??... all very interesting
There`s a similar thread on the chimp forum. People experiencing higher than normal temps. Are you sure its just not this unusual hot weather. We have not had heat like this for a good few years. See whats its like when the weather cools slightly to our normal summer temps, if there is such a thing as a normal summer.
I bet its the weather John. I`m sure i have the same rad as you 3 core as against 4. i will check tomorrow. They told me it would give better cooling as well due to more rows packed closer together. I dont appear to have an issue now that i have my new splitter fitted.
I bet its the weather John. I`m sure i have the same rad as you 3 core as against 4. i will check tomorrow. They told me it would give better cooling as well due to more rows packed closer together. I dont appear to have an issue now that i have my new splitter fitted.
yes.. we will see... TBH I'm not worried about it but just want to understand why.. I think the 3 rows and bigger tubes make it a much stronger unit as the 4 row I had was always cracking at the bottom corners... So long as the fans drag it down then its not going to overheat... but I have noticed it all this year even at 'normal' temps.. that once it got up to say 90 and the fans come on.. it does take longer to pull back down?...
. but thats another thing.. to say I've re-located the switch, it still comes on at the exact same temp as it did before.. so there must be flow past it...
TBH I'm not sure you can count the rows that easy unless you can do it from below?.. i'll go have a look...... .....
yes.. from the underside if you look at the top you can look through the core at an angle and I'm sure its a 3....
. but thats another thing.. to say I've re-located the switch, it still comes on at the exact same temp as it did before.. so there must be flow past it...
TBH I'm not sure you can count the rows that easy unless you can do it from below?.. i'll go have a look...... .....
yes.. from the underside if you look at the top you can look through the core at an angle and I'm sure its a 3....
Gassing Station | Griffith | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff