Takara upgrade?
Discussion
Standard brakes are fine for road use even with a "tad" more power, recommend decent pads and ideally a suspension upgrade though. with regard to increasing the value of the car it depends on the buyer (if i were buying i would pay a bit more for a sorted engine) but don't bank on any increase.
Tim
Tim
Gazboy said:
Out of curiousity (sp?), I clicked that link for the Takara 500 upgrade, is it worth the 3 grand? Do you have to upgrade the brakes to cope, and would you get some of the money back on resale?
Hi Gaz
Well worth the money, dont know how they do it for that, Starmist and I have had varying flavours of the Taraka (not Takara by the way, both with excellent results.
Brakes are as Tim (2sheds) says and i concurr with his suspension comments.
Need anymore info feel free to post.
David GriffNoNos (the artist formerly known as GriffNos)
Having now had my 5ltr fully rebuilt by V8D ... fully balanced I have the kind of power the car should have had to start with ... what it does highlight though is that the suspension is not up to taking the grunt.
My car is only 3 yrs old, but does have 38,000 miles on the clock and a few track days, but the Bilsteins are knackered with that kind of grunt.
TThe standard brakes are fine for the power though, but I do concurr that you will need better pads. I used DOT 5.1, braided lines and fast road pads at Donington and did not suffer from excessive fade, a circuit where it is known to be very hard on brakes. Evena a friend in his radical struggled to believe the braking points I could use.
I am still upgrading the fronts to Tuscan calipers though
My car is only 3 yrs old, but does have 38,000 miles on the clock and a few track days, but the Bilsteins are knackered with that kind of grunt.
TThe standard brakes are fine for the power though, but I do concurr that you will need better pads. I used DOT 5.1, braided lines and fast road pads at Donington and did not suffer from excessive fade, a circuit where it is known to be very hard on brakes. Evena a friend in his radical struggled to believe the braking points I could use.
I am still upgrading the fronts to Tuscan calipers though
RichB said:
johno said:
I am still upgrading the fronts to Tuscan calipers though
What like this?
Yep .... Those are the kiddies !! Getting them on Nov 11th and hopefully will fit them while the car remains in the bodyshop ... if not, whenever i get it back !
What did you do to the rears ... I am tempted only to put an improved drilled/grooved disk in and a Tilton bias adjuster. The fronts are going to be 300mm drilled and grooved as I have only 16" wheels ...
I could take them out to 300mm as well, but then I would have both front and rear the same and I want to get the bias back towards the front. Having also added Nitrons into the package, if I can get the set up right it will help with braking.
It will be interesting to see what difference just the front calipers will have to the brake bias, as many people are telling me that this is just about spot on after the upgrade ...
>> Edited by Johno on Monday 18th October 14:25
John, take a look at my web site www.greenbear.org.uk for more details - although for some reason when I just took a look it was slow opening the first page!
Yes I've got drilled 300's on the back but then again I've got 315 on the front due to the bigger wheels. I find mine very good indeed, but I guess each set-up is slightly different. Rich...
Yes I've got drilled 300's on the back but then again I've got 315 on the front due to the bigger wheels. I find mine very good indeed, but I guess each set-up is slightly different. Rich...
Johno said:
It will be interesting to see what difference just the front calipers will have to the brake bias, as many people are telling me that this is just about spot on after the upgrade ...
Will you let us know? I can't fault the standard size 500 brakes and I'm loathed to risk messing up the balance, even though I'd love a set of brakes like those. My impression (guess) is that the front upgrade will work really well on hot/dry/tracks but not so well everywhere else.
RichB, that looks like the Spider wheel conversion, but the keen eyed amongst us will have spotted they're still the original 4 stud fixing. Where did you source the wheels from?
Johno, I have 300mm Wilwood discs and 4 pot racing calipers on mine (under standard 15" wheels), with standard rears, and it pulls the balance forwards a bit, which is no bad thing.
It TVR cancel the Spider upgrade (I'm still on the list) I will probably fit larger rear discs with the standard calipers (saves pissing around with the handbrake mechanism, but I don't expect a balance bar or bias adjuster will be strictly necessary.
Johno, I have 300mm Wilwood discs and 4 pot racing calipers on mine (under standard 15" wheels), with standard rears, and it pulls the balance forwards a bit, which is no bad thing.
It TVR cancel the Spider upgrade (I'm still on the list) I will probably fit larger rear discs with the standard calipers (saves pissing around with the handbrake mechanism, but I don't expect a balance bar or bias adjuster will be strictly necessary.
starmist said:
RichB, that looks like the Spider wheel conversion, but the keen eyed amongst us will have spotted they're still the original 4 stud fixing. Where did you source the wheels from?
without meaning to be pedantic or an anal bearded one...
they are actually the "other" cerb wheels, not the spiders... is it RL7s or something like that? look excellant.
Rich...starmist said:
RichB, that looks like the Spider wheel conversion, but the keen eyed amongst us will have spotted they're still the original 4 stud fixing. Where did you source the wheels from?
Johno, I have 300mm Wilwood discs and 4 pot racing calipers on mine (under standard 15" wheels), with standard rears, and it pulls the balance forwards a bit, which is no bad thing.
It TVR cancel the Spider upgrade (I'm still on the list) I will probably fit larger rear discs with the standard calipers (saves pissing around with the handbrake mechanism, but I don't expect a balance bar or bias adjuster will be strictly necessary.
With the 16" wheels I don't think I can take the disk size out any more, but I will check if I cn take it to 315mm so then I could take the rear out to 300mm.
However, I hav some calculations to make thanks to Pete H that will tell me more precisely/scientifically what the upgrade to the rear should be and what difference I will have made to the set up by not changing them etc etc ..
Gazboy said:
No major issues in the wet. I would say about 25bhp and about the same in torque. It feels stronger everywhere. If you were to fit the ACT tripple thrttle body plenum, that increases thrttle response, which means you have to be a bit more careful in the wet.
Have you got any dyno/rr charts for stock vs Taraka (did i get it right that time?)?
Unfortunately not, as my cam was very worn before I had it done. On Mech Repairs dyno (which reads 20% less than anyone else's) it was 207bhp before, and 253bhp after (248 and 304 on, say Austec's), so a good 56 bhp, but mine should really have been around 275 before if it was healthy, and the ACT triple throttle body plenum, Mark Adams chip and Bosch airflow meter would have accounted for probably 10 of that, at least.
The Weber injectors and ACT manifolds added another 22bhp, but I think there might be a little more to come, once I've sorted a few niggles out, maybe 5 or so.
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