Discussion
Finally got round to fitting the new suspension.
Old and new

Rear fitted

The worst bit of the job - how I hate that nut and bolt (front lower damper), no access for a socket and limited access even for ring spanners. Loosened and tightened about one flat at a time
No idea how you're supposed to torque them up.

New wheels also fitted (pics to follow), after hours of researching what fits without mods. A quick drive down the road to settle the suspension before sorting out the ride height revealed rear tyres touching the wheel arches on the outside, so hoping that this will be eased by an increase in the ride height (currently 13cm front and rear). If not.......
Old and new
Rear fitted
The worst bit of the job - how I hate that nut and bolt (front lower damper), no access for a socket and limited access even for ring spanners. Loosened and tightened about one flat at a time
No idea how you're supposed to torque them up.New wheels also fitted (pics to follow), after hours of researching what fits without mods. A quick drive down the road to settle the suspension before sorting out the ride height revealed rear tyres touching the wheel arches on the outside, so hoping that this will be eased by an increase in the ride height (currently 13cm front and rear). If not.......
Edited by GlynMo on Wednesday 31st July 16:26
FlipFlopGriff said:
QBee said:
Rear ride height should be around 160mm, ground to outrigger triangle.
Thought it was 145 front, 155 rear or something like that.FFG
SILICONEKID343HP said:
How much do ohlins cost ?
Best part of £3k inc shipping to France.SILICONEKID343HP said:
3k would of paid for a full body off ,those wishbones look goosed 
The wishbones are solid, they look worse than they are due to the rust against the white paint.
infinity said:
i always wonder why people mount their shocks this way, i mounted my new Nitrons upside-down to keep unsprung mass lower.
I originally tried fitting them the other way up and the body of the shocker just fouled the wishbone on full droop.Now have house guests so another delay in finishing the job

I would be very interested to hear what you think of the Ohlins once they are fitted and bedded in. I am really surprised that there are not more cars out there with Ohlins. They seem like a great choice being that they are specifically setup for the car as a result of the development work and jig etc.
MPoxon said:
I would be very interested to hear what you think of the Ohlins once they are fitted and bedded in. I am really surprised that there are not more cars out there with Ohlins. They seem like a great choice being that they are specifically setup for the car as a result of the development work and jig etc.
I'll report back once I've had the opportunity to finish the set-up and get some miles in.I too am surprised that there are not more Griffs on Ohlins, but I suppose you need to be convinced that the extra cost over the usual suspects is going to be worth it. Being able to talk to Giles over a beer was very helpful, as was Dave at Aurok.
Front and rear Ohlins fitted to my Griffith in January 2012 at a cost of £2640 by Aurok Limited http://www.aurok.com/.
TvrIanD said:
Front and rear Ohlins fitted to my Griffith in January 2012 at a cost of £2640 by Aurok Limited http://www.aurok.com/.
and....... ?FlipFlopGriff said:
QBee said:
Ok, I'm 5mm out.......but the OP is 25 mm out. My Chimaera is set at 165mm rear, drives beautifully on 18 inch rears and 888s.
Needs to look right and feel right. Soon as you change the wheel sizes then its all guesswork I guess.Prefer the original stance TBH.
FFG
My 888s on my 18 inch rears were catching on the wheel arches, and i was having problems with the car grounding the rear ARB or exhaust on country roads, but when I checked the ride height I found it was at about the same level as the OP's. Car always looked arse down, too. Raised it by 30 mm, car looks right now, tyres don't catch, bonnet doesn't flap at speed, handling is improved.
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