Top Rear Diff Bush

[seasider]

Have seen the other threads on diff removal & i am rather hoping it's possible to replace the rear/top bush without removing the diff.....

I expect not but confirmation either way would be helpful.

Tks in advance

[spend]

Only if you removed the body I think..

[seasider]

St

Tks Dave i think you can gather i was rather after the other option

Spose i can do some of the chassis that doesn't really need doing anyway!!!!!

edited to add: i read your list on the other thread should be very helpful tks....

>> Edited by seasider on Tuesday 16th November 14:12

[wixer]

It is possible to replace the bush without removing the diff, as the bush sits in the chassis and a bracket then attaches it to the diff. However, it is a complete b***tard of a job to do. I'd pay someone who's done the job before, to do it for you, I did.

[david beer]

I had a look at it this very weekend, bodged it for now. Cutting up the dogs "nyler bone" very hard plastic type stuff, i raised the diff in its bush and jammed the "nyler" between the bolts and the "v" shaped chassis, lowered and there it has stayed. My last Griff ran for 6 months like it until i sold it. It does look a real horid job to do, when i get round to it.

[seasider]

wixer said:

It is possible to replace the bush without removing the diff, as the bush sits in the chassis and a bracket then attaches it to the diff. However, it is a complete b***tard of a job to do. I'd pay someone who's done the job before, to do it for you, I did.

Thats what i'm thinking Phil, had a good look today & with about 6 inches of room (if ya lucky)either side it would need a very well designed bolt/puller to get the bush out even with the diff off...

david beer said:

I had a look at it this very weekend, bodged it for now. Cutting up the dogs "nyler bone" very hard plastic type stuff, i raised the diff in its bush and jammed the "nyler" between the bolts and the "v" shaped chassis, lowered and there it has stayed. My last Griff ran for 6 months like it until i sold it. It does look a real horid job to do, when i get round to it.

HERE BOY!!!

Not my usual type of fix (or yours David) but might stop the clonk till i do it... or get it booked in...

I'm just hoping the clonk is the bush not the diff

Jools soft poly bushes or normal?

[only me]

if its the same as my golf cart i believe mine was done by cutting the bracket replace and the re-weld

mine was done by Mr Batty and I Know the Diff was NOT removed

[joospeed]

seasider said:

Jools soft poly bushes or normal?

poly every time for me .. cheaper than the tvr bush aswell

you might as well do all three if you're in there ..

[seasider]

joospeed said:

you might as well do all three if you're in there ..

Would do all three anyway & the roll bar bushes i suppose... Are you the Da Man for the poly's? if so i'll give you call tomorrow if thats ok...

[seasider]

only me said:

if its the same as my golf cart i believe mine was done by cutting the bracket replace and the re-weld mine was done by Mr Batty and I Know the Diff was NOT removed

Hi Tony that was my first thought but if i can get to the fr out without cutting or to much blood i'd rather go that route... me thinks it will need a very cunning extractor

>> Edited by seasider on Tuesday 16th November 21:52

[david beer]

I know its a bodge, i will do it properly, i promise. Now all we need is for someone to attempt a DIY and then tell all. I cant do it for two weeks, so its not me ! If you take a look at the bush, you will see the rubber squezzing out.

Not my usual type of fix (or yours David) but might stop the clonk till i do it... or get it booked in...

I'm just hoping the clonk is the bush not the diff

Jools soft poly bushes or normal?[/quote]

[Seasider]

I repaired a Gearbox mount on my old m6 bmw in the same way but used an old 1 inch radiator hose!! lasted 2 years....

The diff clonk disappeared today

But will still get it done or do it myself asap...

The main problem i can see on a home job is extracting/replacing the bush in the chassis.
I'm thinking a couple of sockets & a bolt to make a puller, just worries me that i get it all off then cant get the fr out... also not much space either side!!!!!

Will also have to source the poly bushes so need to speak with a certain Northerner
Help Jools

Edited to add:
David, I really think you should do the job first so i can pick your brains/ideas


>> Edited by Seasider on Wednesday 17th November 20:16

[joospeed]

it's a right royal pain in the arse of a job. you won't shift it with just a puller i dont think .. i never have anyway. I do it the long way taking the diff out and heating the bush up, takes about 5-6 hours all total but guaranteed to work every time that's why i do it that way ..

[Seasider]

joospeed said:

it's a right royal pain in the arse of a job. you won't shift it with just a puller i dont think .. i never have anyway. I do it the long way taking the diff out and heating the bush up, takes about 5-6 hours all total but guaranteed to work every time that's why i do it that way ..

Hi Jools, if i do it!! i'm planning on a "diff out" Hammerite chassis opportunity(thats the only reason i'm considering the home job! & the fact your a few to many miles away )

When heated do you knock it out or use a puller?
& do you have the poly's? will call you tomorrow if you have.

& I'm Still well happy with the AVO's....

Tks Del

[spend]

If like me you're too chicken to burn it out:

Saw drills like www.vehicle-wiring-products.co.uk/VWPweb2000/tools-2/photo/2208.jpg

make holes in the rubber quick & easy, forget the words of warning about drilling in the bible with these tools.

I still find it hard to believe the top bush can be done with diff in-situ. I know there is more room if you have'nt the fins - but not that much!

Dave

[Seasider]

Hi Dave,
Having had another look today i think it's impossible in situ...

Did you get a drill & bit in that small space??? & surely the rubber bush has an outer metal case...

>> Edited by Seasider on Wednesday 17th November 21:04

[spend]

Air drilled large hole in rubber, then air saw to cut 2 slots in metal outer. Tapped out with a punch. A battery drill & hand saw might do it, but my air tools were smaller (and being lazy + weakling...)

PS having burnt out wishbone bushes, I would use the saw drills if I had to do it again, much cleaner and the large drills leave the inner & outer metal of the bush exposed nicely, ready to cut the slots.

Dave

[joospeed]

seasider, if you're changing all 3 bushes the diff is 5 minutes away from being on teh floor anyway .. no need to struggle with it in situ. use poly and never have to do them again

[Seasider]

spend said:

A battery drill & hand saw might do it, but my air tools were smaller Dave

Looks like i'm gonna invest on a very small/expensive drill... tks for the advice Dave i enjoy a challenge

joospeed said:

seasider, if you're changing all 3 bushes the diff is 5 minutes away from being on teh floor anyway .. no need to struggle with it in situ. use poly and never have to do them again

Jools, The diff is coming out if i'm doing it (which looks likely) will give you a bell tomorrow for some poly... & thank you as well

[Corin Denton]

I've done this job on a ramp and it's a complete Bd!