Starter motor woes
Discussion
Hi all,
This has been done before I'm sure.
Can someone point me at some advice on how to cure the hot start problems when the starter motor decides not to play when hot?
Mine won't start immediately after it's been given a good run and it needs 20 minutes or copious amounts of water tipped over to cool it.
Is there any preventitive measure that can be used or is just a case of replacement? Is the problem in the starter motor itself or just heat soak?
Cheers
Dave
This has been done before I'm sure.
Can someone point me at some advice on how to cure the hot start problems when the starter motor decides not to play when hot?
Mine won't start immediately after it's been given a good run and it needs 20 minutes or copious amounts of water tipped over to cool it.
Is there any preventitive measure that can be used or is just a case of replacement? Is the problem in the starter motor itself or just heat soak?
Cheers
Dave
From my understanding it can point to a few things.
The feed wire brakes down and doesnt give enough power at the solinoid. Cure = Mod-Wise relay.
Another problem can be with the Alarm/immobilsor wires also braking down under the heat and no amps getting through until its cooled.
The solinoid usually gets cooked from heat soak and then starts sticking and not engaging as what happened to mine.
I changed it and added some heat shield been OK all through the summer just gone, although it does seem to crank a little slow to start with but then catches quickly.(that could be be my battery as I havent had a new one in 3 years at least).
You can do a few tests as in the Bible to see what volts your getting at the Starter, but must admit its hard to get the starter to stick and then see what volts your getting. that would show whether its the wiring or the Starter.
hope that makes some sense and is of help.
BB
The feed wire brakes down and doesnt give enough power at the solinoid. Cure = Mod-Wise relay.
Another problem can be with the Alarm/immobilsor wires also braking down under the heat and no amps getting through until its cooled.
The solinoid usually gets cooked from heat soak and then starts sticking and not engaging as what happened to mine.
I changed it and added some heat shield been OK all through the summer just gone, although it does seem to crank a little slow to start with but then catches quickly.(that could be be my battery as I havent had a new one in 3 years at least).
You can do a few tests as in the Bible to see what volts your getting at the Starter, but must admit its hard to get the starter to stick and then see what volts your getting. that would show whether its the wiring or the Starter.
hope that makes some sense and is of help.
BB
cheers BB
Mine won't even kick in when it plays up - i.e it doesn't click to position, so it's not lack of power just a lack of incentive for the SM to move over
I assume there are 2 things, the movement in to the the block and the start actuation; I don't get the first stage. It cures itself once cool however but how long before it's completely bu66ered
Edit - once it turns it does turn well
>> Edited by donatien on Wednesday 17th November 00:39
Mine won't even kick in when it plays up - i.e it doesn't click to position, so it's not lack of power just a lack of incentive for the SM to move over
I assume there are 2 things, the movement in to the the block and the start actuation; I don't get the first stage. It cures itself once cool however but how long before it's completely bu66ered
Edit - once it turns it does turn well
>> Edited by donatien on Wednesday 17th November 00:39
The lack of click is exactly what you would have without enough power to the solenoid, just not enough to throw it when its hot and sticky. I think every car should have the relay put back in, its a weak link and would cost a fiver from halfords, get the one with the built in fuse. Its easy to do in the footwell as the wiring from there to the solenoid is of "Range Rover" quality !
donatien said:
It cures itself once cool however but how long before it's completely bu66ered
I added the relay as per Davids suggestion and cleaned and lubed the moving bits. The starter motor that I thought had had it is now back in the car and working perfectly well. It's also worth adding a short earth cable to the block from the battery(again a David suggestion).
FFG, if you have had engine work done i would check the connector on the solenoid is nice and tight. For the relay mod, find the wire, i have a photo, cut and insert relay.Take supply fron the battery and fuse it @15 or 20. The solenoid will draw 11-12 amps. Then the TVR wiring only has to turn on the relay, it can manage that ! SimonB had an immobiliser that cut his out when hot, but its the first i have heard of, but in TVR land, if ones done it !!
Mine seams to be OK now, touch dash.
When I got to the Immobiliser it was sat directly over the bellhousing behind the dash stuck on some foam. I moved it over to the right of the air vent and it now sits on the edge of centre console extension which gives it an extra layer of fibre glass and a small air gap between it and the bellhousing cover.
So far so good it’s not given me a problem now for nearly two weeks.
Cheers,
Simon.
When I got to the Immobiliser it was sat directly over the bellhousing behind the dash stuck on some foam. I moved it over to the right of the air vent and it now sits on the edge of centre console extension which gives it an extra layer of fibre glass and a small air gap between it and the bellhousing cover.
So far so good it’s not given me a problem now for nearly two weeks.
Cheers,
Simon.
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