Would retarding the advance drop exhaust CO2 rate?
Discussion
For emissions you want the best burn possible.
I have found that mine at tickover, which is where i`m assuming they will check, likes a lot of advance. You can hear the engine go sweet then not so sweet etc as you mess around with it.
If you are still running the distributor, be very careful driving the car if you advance the timing in this way, as higher up the rev range will give you way too much advance which could destroy your engine.
I have found that mine at tickover, which is where i`m assuming they will check, likes a lot of advance. You can hear the engine go sweet then not so sweet etc as you mess around with it.
If you are still running the distributor, be very careful driving the car if you advance the timing in this way, as higher up the rev range will give you way too much advance which could destroy your engine.
When you say Co2 do you actually mean CO ?
Normally it is CO that causes the problem. CO ( Carbon Monoxide) is the main result of combustion and will be high if the engine is running too rich. Altering the timing wouldn’t have a direct effect on the CO figure it is really only a result of the ratio of fuel to air. If all is working well the ECU should measure the air going in and inject the correct amount of fuel to achieve the correct ratio. The ratio is altered depending on the engine and air temperature. Ideally you need the engine at about 82c and a nice cool day.
As well as measuring the temperature and air flow the ECU uses data from the oxygen (lambda)sensors at low RPM. For a good CO figure you need the engine to be up to temperature and all the data from the air flow meter, temperature sensors and lambda sensors arriving at the ECU to be good.
Also tested and perhaps more of a problem are the hydrocarbon levels. If the burn is not completely successful some fuel remains in the exhaust gas. That can happen if the timing is not ideally set, the mixture is too lean or too rich, or one of the plugs is not sparking nicely.
If you think it is going to be marginal it is a good idea to fit a new set of plugs and put some fresh fuel in the tank.
Normally it is CO that causes the problem. CO ( Carbon Monoxide) is the main result of combustion and will be high if the engine is running too rich. Altering the timing wouldn’t have a direct effect on the CO figure it is really only a result of the ratio of fuel to air. If all is working well the ECU should measure the air going in and inject the correct amount of fuel to achieve the correct ratio. The ratio is altered depending on the engine and air temperature. Ideally you need the engine at about 82c and a nice cool day.
As well as measuring the temperature and air flow the ECU uses data from the oxygen (lambda)sensors at low RPM. For a good CO figure you need the engine to be up to temperature and all the data from the air flow meter, temperature sensors and lambda sensors arriving at the ECU to be good.
Also tested and perhaps more of a problem are the hydrocarbon levels. If the burn is not completely successful some fuel remains in the exhaust gas. That can happen if the timing is not ideally set, the mixture is too lean or too rich, or one of the plugs is not sparking nicely.
If you think it is going to be marginal it is a good idea to fit a new set of plugs and put some fresh fuel in the tank.
steve-V8s said:
When you say Co2 do you actually mean CO ?
Normally it is CO that causes the problem. CO ( Carbon Monoxide) is the main result of combustion and will be high if the engine is running too rich. Altering the timing wouldn’t have a direct effect on the CO figure it is really only a result of the ratio of fuel to air. If all is working well the ECU should measure the air going in and inject the correct amount of fuel to achieve the correct ratio. The ratio is altered depending on the engine and air temperature. Ideally you need the engine at about 82c and a nice cool day.
As well as measuring the temperature and air flow the ECU uses data from the oxygen (lambda)sensors at low RPM. For a good CO figure you need the engine to be up to temperature and all the data from the air flow meter, temperature sensors and lambda sensors arriving at the ECU to be good.
Also tested and perhaps more of a problem are the hydrocarbon levels. If the burn is not completely successful some fuel remains in the exhaust gas. That can happen if the timing is not ideally set, the mixture is too lean or too rich, or one of the plugs is not sparking nicely.
If you think it is going to be marginal it is a good idea to fit a new set of plugs and put some fresh fuel in the tank.
Yes, sorry, I ment the CO...Normally it is CO that causes the problem. CO ( Carbon Monoxide) is the main result of combustion and will be high if the engine is running too rich. Altering the timing wouldn’t have a direct effect on the CO figure it is really only a result of the ratio of fuel to air. If all is working well the ECU should measure the air going in and inject the correct amount of fuel to achieve the correct ratio. The ratio is altered depending on the engine and air temperature. Ideally you need the engine at about 82c and a nice cool day.
As well as measuring the temperature and air flow the ECU uses data from the oxygen (lambda)sensors at low RPM. For a good CO figure you need the engine to be up to temperature and all the data from the air flow meter, temperature sensors and lambda sensors arriving at the ECU to be good.
Also tested and perhaps more of a problem are the hydrocarbon levels. If the burn is not completely successful some fuel remains in the exhaust gas. That can happen if the timing is not ideally set, the mixture is too lean or too rich, or one of the plugs is not sparking nicely.
If you think it is going to be marginal it is a good idea to fit a new set of plugs and put some fresh fuel in the tank.
The idea of changing the full set of plugs is also pretty good, thanks.
Actually I must not have a perfect timing set (I do it manually moving the distributor back and forward and then trying at high load the car on the street), as the engine seems not to burn the gas completely...I often notice getting in the garage when I need to manouvre to park more then a couple of minutes the gases in the garage make me cry like a child LOL...
But what's very peculiar is that the engine seem to have a ''variable'' timing for some reason, one day I set it perfectly and I can see the results at speed and even in the garage and a couple of days later the engine does not fully run clean and when I get into the garage I feel plenty of uncombusted gases...How come?
The dizzy is new...
Thanks
Giuseppe
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