Still in a winter coma

[Plan B]

I'm a new Griff owner and had it garaged/laid up over winter. Apart from replacing the battery and keeping it charged up and starting her up every ~ 2 weeks I've done little else. Came to give it some spring air this afternoon and it won't start. Before I get under the bonnet and test the obvious I could use some advice on where best to look. Here's more detail:
1) I've got a battery isolator installed which has turned off all electrics for an extended period over winter. I know this mucks around with the alarm/immob so when re-instating the power I've cycled the alarm a few times to make sure it's got it's brains back together.
2) I had the immob replaced just before winter to fix a cold start issue.
3) Normally when I turn the ignition on and hit the fob button the fuel pump come to life. Now it doesn't - I can't hear the fuel pump priming
4) The starter is turning the engine fine - loads of cranking capacity so not a battery issue

My instinct says its the pump or the relay to the pump - what's the best way to test it?

Which is the pump relay - is it one of the relays lying loose on the harness or is it in mounted on the fuse box

I realise it could be one of a hundred things but would appreciate a priority sequence on where to look.

Thanks guys

[portzi]

Not a griff owner, but if like the chim, your fuel pump relay is in the passenger foot well, and is one of the 2 on the wire bundle going to the ecu. Try changing these around and see if that works?. I have to replace both mine as they were the old style metal land rover ones which had corroded over the years

Mark

[Hedgehopper]

The fuel pump relay is the blue one and the ECU relay the black one next to it. I understand that these are not standard relays but Bosch electronic ones. Also they both have to work for the car to start.

[Plan B]

Just so happens I had a spare relay - swapped it and started on the button. Happy again.
Thanks guys!!

[WinstonWolf]

Is it the 'correct' relay or a regular one you had handy?

They are special but I can't remember why

[TVR Beaver]

The real one has a diode fitted. If you fit a std unit it will drain the battery over time

[WinstonWolf]

Yeah, that's it

[WinstonWolf]

And a standard one has the contacts wired different which will lead to over fuelling.

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/forum.asp?h=0&a...

[Plan B]

The one I fitted was from Clever Trevor - I bought it some months ago as a spare as I was told this was a common failure point. It's a Bosch relay in a brown plastic enclosure. I'm not sure how it could cause a battery drain. When the ignition is off the relay unlatches from the fuel pump and surely the primary circuit is open circuited by the immob/ignition switch. So where does the current drain come from? I've got that feeling I am missing something obvious here and I just know someone is gonna correct me. OK I give in - how do I tell it is the diode type

[WinstonWolf]

On that link I posted it explains. Basically it keeps 12v on the lambda probes with the ignition off and doesn't power them when the engine is running.

[Plan B]

OK - just read the link - I understand now - if it's the wrong relay it will maintain power to the lamdas when in break position but cuts power when in the make position causing a fueling issue when running and battery drain when the ignition is off.
Another question - Assuming the BROWN relay I fitted is the correct type for the fuel pump/lamda relay. There are two relays on the loose harness around the ECU. I believe the second one is for the ECU feed. I also replaced this as a preventative measure with a second BROWN relay (yes I bought 2 spares!). I did this as I observed that both of the old relays on quick inspection seemed to be the same (aluminium cans with a diagonal stripe painted across the top). So two questions:
1) is the brown plastic canned relay correct for the fueling side
2) is this also good for the ECU relay replacement
BTW it seems fine but haven't driven in it yet and hope I'm not causing the lamda problem above.

[WinstonWolf]

The new correct ones are in a brown plastic shell, don't know the part numbers without a delve in the footwell

[ronspeedsix]

That's exactly what happened to me.
Read my recent topic 'Overfuelling solved'.
The normal relays have a normally open and a normally closed contact.
The Bosch relay has two normally opened contacts.

Regards Ronald

[Plan B]

Just to be sure I'll check there is only voltage at the Lamdas when ignition is on. Very useful info thanks

[ronspeedsix]

With the wrong relay there is still power at the lambda's with the ignition on, but when you start the engine it is switched off.
So if you check, with running engine !

Ronald

[Plan B]

OK got it

[chrispitman]

With the original metal ones if you think its causing the problem and its still clicking, you can get the metal can off the prob is the contacts get worn black and pitted causing bad connection. Run a little folded sand paper through the contacts will get it working again. Enough to prove that was the only fault and use the car till a replacement truns up.