Discussion
Hi all, anyone got a spare early dash (suitable for 4.3 Pre-Cat) that I can relieve you of for some pennies? I would like to have a go an reveneering my dash but want to do it to a spare dash then fit rather than strip all mine down first. Have already sourced some nice burr walnut veneer! Many thanks, Pete
Have you given any thought to making one Pete?
I was talking to the guy who veneered my dash and he said it should be good for 5-10yrs, but had the backing been made out of wood it would be good for life.
He couldn't understand why TVR made the backing plate out of steel
The problem we have is mounting the brackets to the back of the dash after its been veneered. We (pre-cats) need these brackets to be particularly strong because the clocks aren't supported by anything other than the brackets - the later cars have the bezel to stop the clock pushing into the dash.
If you can resolve how to fix the brackets to the dash after veneering you're laughing.
And if you do get a spare backing plate from someone I would advise measuring all the cutouts very carefully against your dash.
I've got a beautiful newly veneered dash on the shelf because it has a clock hole the same size as the petrol/volts holes - but the clock is smaller.
Fecking eejit!
I was talking to the guy who veneered my dash and he said it should be good for 5-10yrs, but had the backing been made out of wood it would be good for life.
He couldn't understand why TVR made the backing plate out of steel
The problem we have is mounting the brackets to the back of the dash after its been veneered. We (pre-cats) need these brackets to be particularly strong because the clocks aren't supported by anything other than the brackets - the later cars have the bezel to stop the clock pushing into the dash.
If you can resolve how to fix the brackets to the dash after veneering you're laughing.
And if you do get a spare backing plate from someone I would advise measuring all the cutouts very carefully against your dash.
I've got a beautiful newly veneered dash on the shelf because it has a clock hole the same size as the petrol/volts holes - but the clock is smaller.
Fecking eejit!
Barreti said:
Have you given any thought to making one Pete?
I was talking to the guy who veneered my dash and he said it should be good for 5-10yrs, but had the backing been made out of wood it would be good for life.
He couldn't understand why TVR made the backing plate out of steel
The problem we have is mounting the brackets to the back of the dash after its been veneered. We (pre-cats) need these brackets to be particularly strong because the clocks aren't supported by anything other than the brackets - the later cars have the bezel to stop the clock pushing into the dash.
If you can resolve how to fix the brackets to the dash after veneering you're laughing.
And if you do get a spare backing plate from someone I would advise measuring all the cutouts very carefully against your dash.
I've got a beautiful newly veneered dash on the shelf because it has a clock hole the same size as the petrol/volts holes - but the clock is smaller.
Fecking eejit!
Hi Ian, yes I have seriously considered making one. It could easily be manufactured out of wood, a good quality birch ply (6mm)would be the material of choice. If not 3mm aluminium, thicker than the thin steel original and if a couple of small angle stiffeners are Tig welded on the back would not flex! I was talking to the guy who veneered my dash and he said it should be good for 5-10yrs, but had the backing been made out of wood it would be good for life.
He couldn't understand why TVR made the backing plate out of steel
The problem we have is mounting the brackets to the back of the dash after its been veneered. We (pre-cats) need these brackets to be particularly strong because the clocks aren't supported by anything other than the brackets - the later cars have the bezel to stop the clock pushing into the dash.
If you can resolve how to fix the brackets to the dash after veneering you're laughing.
And if you do get a spare backing plate from someone I would advise measuring all the cutouts very carefully against your dash.
I've got a beautiful newly veneered dash on the shelf because it has a clock hole the same size as the petrol/volts holes - but the clock is smaller.
Fecking eejit!
Well, I reckon I have just talked myself into doing this haven't I!!!! My Griff goes in on Saturday for a complete interior retrim, perhaps a good opportunity of taking the dash away when the trimmer has removed the dash surround and making a template.
As far as any mountings on the back; with the ply dash mountings could be let in from the front prior to veneering, or captive nuts inserted. If aluminium, again relevant bracketry could be fabricated and Tig welded on.
Sounds like a project whilst the Griff is being trimmed. Regards, Pete
And if you do get a spare backing plate from someone I would advise measuring all the cutouts very carefully against your dash.
I've got a beautiful newly veneered dash on the shelf because it has a clock hole the same size as the petrol/volts holes - but the clock is smaller.
Fecking eejit!
[/quote]
Welcome to my world of f
k ups and I thought I was the only one, same us your catch for the glove box then 
The problem with mounting/welding brackets on before you veneer is you need to clamp the veneer down flat when its applied.
But if you could somehow fabricate flush fitting captive nut type fittings you can later screw into they you are on to a winner.
My thought was the same as yours - quality 6mm ply and fit captive nuts in from the front.
But the only captive nuts I could lay my hands on were computer cage nuts which are about 8mm
The advantage of cage nuts is they are made to fit into something and the nut isn't firmly fixed so if you get the angle slightly off it shouldn't matter too much.
Your IT bods will be able to give you a couple if you want to experiment.
A thought did just occur to me. If you fitted cage nuts and created a backing plate with recesses where they stand proud at the back you could then clamp the veneer in a nice fat sandwich.
ETA: I really wanted to make my own dash at the time I had it veneered a year ago. Even though I don't need one now, and certainly don't have the time either I really really want to make one again. Odd what gets your juices going eh!
But if you could somehow fabricate flush fitting captive nut type fittings you can later screw into they you are on to a winner.
My thought was the same as yours - quality 6mm ply and fit captive nuts in from the front.
But the only captive nuts I could lay my hands on were computer cage nuts which are about 8mm
The advantage of cage nuts is they are made to fit into something and the nut isn't firmly fixed so if you get the angle slightly off it shouldn't matter too much.
Your IT bods will be able to give you a couple if you want to experiment.
A thought did just occur to me. If you fitted cage nuts and created a backing plate with recesses where they stand proud at the back you could then clamp the veneer in a nice fat sandwich.
ETA: I really wanted to make my own dash at the time I had it veneered a year ago. Even though I don't need one now, and certainly don't have the time either I really really want to make one again. Odd what gets your juices going eh!
Edited by Barreti on Tuesday 20th May 17:11
Barreti said:
The problem with mounting/welding brackets on before you veneer is you need to clamp the veneer down flat when its applied.
But if you could somehow fabricate flush fitting captive nut type fittings you can later screw into they you are on to a winner.
My thought was the same as yours - quality 6mm ply and fit captive nuts in from the front.
But the only captive nuts I could lay my hands on were computer cage nuts which are about 8mm
The advantage of cage nuts is they are made to fit into something and the nut isn't firmly fixed so if you get the angle slightly off it shouldn't matter too much.
Your IT bods will be able to give you a couple if you want to experiment.
A thought did just occur to me. If you fitted cage nuts and created a backing plate with recesses where they stand proud at the back you could then clamp the veneer in a nice fat sandwich.
ETA: I really wanted to make my own dash at the time I had it veneered a year ago. Even though I don't need one now, and certainly don't have the time either I really really want to make one again. Odd what gets your juices going eh!
Hi Ian, if I was to use the ply another method would be to recess and glue in a series of 'tapping' plates in 3mm aluminium, then you could have flexibility in where you drilled and tapped holes for bracket mounting. This could all be done prior to veneering so you just screw into place before refitting dash. We use this method in our specialist trucks at work where clients might want to fit additional equipment. Regards, PeteBut if you could somehow fabricate flush fitting captive nut type fittings you can later screw into they you are on to a winner.
My thought was the same as yours - quality 6mm ply and fit captive nuts in from the front.
But the only captive nuts I could lay my hands on were computer cage nuts which are about 8mm
The advantage of cage nuts is they are made to fit into something and the nut isn't firmly fixed so if you get the angle slightly off it shouldn't matter too much.
Your IT bods will be able to give you a couple if you want to experiment.
A thought did just occur to me. If you fitted cage nuts and created a backing plate with recesses where they stand proud at the back you could then clamp the veneer in a nice fat sandwich.
ETA: I really wanted to make my own dash at the time I had it veneered a year ago. Even though I don't need one now, and certainly don't have the time either I really really want to make one again. Odd what gets your juices going eh!
Edited by Barreti on Tuesday 20th May 17:11
Hi Pete.
I have a one if you'd like to PM me - they're rare for pre-cats!
My dash was cracked and was going to attempt this job myself but decided it was beyond me.
I'm currently having the dash re-veneered (I think by London carriage craft) and the work being carried out by David at 'the garage' in Godalming.
It's still work in progress and the updates I've received so far confirm its a bugger of a job on the early cars.
I'm confident he'll do a good job though - would be happy to provide feedback of finshed job if it helps?
Graham
I have a one if you'd like to PM me - they're rare for pre-cats!
My dash was cracked and was going to attempt this job myself but decided it was beyond me.
I'm currently having the dash re-veneered (I think by London carriage craft) and the work being carried out by David at 'the garage' in Godalming.
It's still work in progress and the updates I've received so far confirm its a bugger of a job on the early cars.
I'm confident he'll do a good job though - would be happy to provide feedback of finshed job if it helps?
Graham
Classical Dash in High Wycombe have told me that they can re-veneer the dash with brackets still affixed.
http://www.classical-dash.co.uk/tvrchimaera.html
http://www.classical-dash.co.uk/tvrchimaera.html
As an update; armed with the CAD file from David I have had a quote to produce 1 off in 3mm aluminium for around £30. My intention is to get a mate to do me a 1:1 paper print from th efile and compare against my dash. Also, very luckily, within our woodshop at work we have a 'Master Veneer Craftsman' and I have been talking to him this morning. If I take up this project he will help, will then get it spray lacquered to a high gloss finish.
I am now thinking that the way to go is a metal backing plate in aluminium of say 1.5mm and a bonded ply front layer of say 4mm, then veneer onto the ply! I would have the ply CNC routed from the same CAD file from David that the aluminium is laser cut from. That way all fixing bracketry could be screwed or welded onto the aluminium sheet and the ply layer would go over any screw heards etc! Have seen some lovely walnut veneer for about £15 - £25 that would be more than enough for the dash plate. Regards, Pete
I am now thinking that the way to go is a metal backing plate in aluminium of say 1.5mm and a bonded ply front layer of say 4mm, then veneer onto the ply! I would have the ply CNC routed from the same CAD file from David that the aluminium is laser cut from. That way all fixing bracketry could be screwed or welded onto the aluminium sheet and the ply layer would go over any screw heards etc! Have seen some lovely walnut veneer for about £15 - £25 that would be more than enough for the dash plate. Regards, Pete
Hedgehopper said:
Classical Dash in High Wycombe have told me that they can re-veneer the dash with brackets still affixed.
http://www.classical-dash.co.uk/tvrchimaera.html
That's interesting to hear.http://www.classical-dash.co.uk/tvrchimaera.html
They did mine last year and I had to take off the brackets.
One thing they certainly can't do though is work to an agreed deadline, so if you use them, and the work they do is brilliant, give them lots of time and lots of calls to check on progress.
Just an update; have now ordered the walnut veneer. This is the plan now - make up a laminated sandwich of; 2mm backing aluminium, middle layer 4mm birch ply, top layer walnut veneer. Will then get a contact to 'waterjet' cut the whole dash shape including all cutouts, using a digital CAD file (many thanks Barretti), then the veneered surface will be finished to a high gloss standard. of course the fixing of brackets etc will be facilitated prior to the bonding of all three layers. This sandwich should produce a very stable dash face and dramatically reduce flexing which causes so many veneered Griff dashes to fail.
Shall keep you posted. Pete
Shall keep you posted. Pete
EGB said:
Pete. Where did you order the burr walnut from. Like to see it in the flesh before ordering. Thanks.
Hi EGB, I did not go for 'Burr Walnut' as firstly my Griff dash is not currently Burr and I could not find a supplier with a piece big enough in width to cover the whole dash (a centre split line would not suite the Griff dash shape). Have gone for a lovely piece of 'Figured American Walnut' which is 1000mm wide by 350mm high:
Will arrange cutting profile to give the best presentation of the veneer!
Thanks Pete. The very very best looking Burr Walnut I have ever seen! was on Emirates A380. Even the toilet seat. Probably highly polished plastic. For fun, perserverience and hard work will try, try to enquire with Airbus as to their source. Perhaps, a group TVR buy for handy A380 offcuts will do for us. Wish I knew where they park their skips!. ![](http://thumbsnap.com/sc/mLHgvnKK.jpg[/img]</a> <a href="http://thumbsnap.com/8ZXr7Jhy" Target="_blank">[img]http://thumbsnap.com/sc/8ZXr7Jhy.jpg[/img]</a> <a href="http://thumbsnap.com/XJ4WWJQI" Target="_blank">[img]http://thumbsnap.com/sc/XJ4WWJQI.jpg)
davep said:
Just a thought, doesn't the backing plate require a certain amount of flex to be able to compensate for the curvature caused by the dash mounting design? Make it too thick and this might be a problem.
Yes you are correct, but my laminated sandwich is only 6mm thick overall and the little amount of flex needed should easily be accomodated. It's the extreme flex in the standard TVR dash panels which 'kill' the veneer. My current dash had been redone by the previous owner at some time and it's cracking already, especially in the thin areas around the switches! You can feel it flex when you push the light switches in! My laminated design should hopefully stop this. I have decided I will make two dashes up, one in the walnut above and another in a more highly figured piece on it's way to me. Also, my contact with the water jet cutting machine has come back to me and is up for the trial, so we are almost on the way. One of my guys who sprayed my Griff last year will be applying the copious ammounts of lacquer needed and luckily one of my other guys in our woodshop will make up and press the 'sandwich' ready for water jet cutting! Exiting stuff, will keep you informed. Pete
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