Creaking Griffith
Discussion
I took my car out for the first time this year today and it creaks like an old bed. It was doing it a bit last year but it seems a bit worse now. It had new Nitron shocks in 2008.
Anyone any idea what the cause might be? It is hard to identify exactly where the noise is coming from - almost seems to come from all over. It passed the MOT with no relevant advisories in October.
Anyone any idea what the cause might be? It is hard to identify exactly where the noise is coming from - almost seems to come from all over. It passed the MOT with no relevant advisories in October.
Phew ! thought I was going mental......mine does this too, preferably when stood/cold
It had new outriggers and I thought it the body 'resting' to much on them, but have not got evidence, or a method of measuring.
I also suspected the window motors, sort of clickering ?
Not terribly annoyed by it, but it would be nice to know what it is !!
If anything, its good to know I wasn't loosing it
It had new outriggers and I thought it the body 'resting' to much on them, but have not got evidence, or a method of measuring.
I also suspected the window motors, sort of clickering ?
Not terribly annoyed by it, but it would be nice to know what it is !!
If anything, its good to know I wasn't loosing it
The fast clicking at the B-post is most probably caused by the door switch. When driving there will be slight door movement and the door switches are just slighty pressed in. So every (outwards) movement of the door will cause the door switch to make contact saying the door is open.
Solution is to add some more rubber at the door to push in the door switch some more.
Ronald
Solution is to add some more rubber at the door to push in the door switch some more.
Ronald
ronspeedsix said:
The fast clicking at the B-post is most probably caused by the door switch. When driving there will be slight door movement and the door switches are just slighty pressed in. So every (outwards) movement of the door will cause the door switch to make contact saying the door is open.
Solution is to add some more rubber at the door to push in the door switch some more.
Ronald
Could also be a dirty contact on the switch. Easy to remove and clean Solution is to add some more rubber at the door to push in the door switch some more.
Ronald
I have had very similar on my Griff, I have identified it as the door locking solenoids 'chattering' due to the door switches not fully braking contact! I replaced the switches a few months ago after completing my suspension refurbishment. What I did was to make a couple of small rubber pads and stick them onto the bottom of the doors where the switch makes contact, thereby enabling it to be pushed in that bit further! Rubber is approx. 3mm thick. Regards, Pete
PeteGriff said:
I have had very similar on my Griff, I have identified it as the door locking solenoids 'chattering' due to the door switches not fully braking contact! I replaced the switches a few months ago after completing my suspension refurbishment. What I did was to make a couple of small rubber pads and stick them onto the bottom of the doors where the switch makes contact, thereby enabling it to be pushed in that bit further! Rubber is approx. 3mm thick. Regards, Pete
Cheers, Pete !
PeteGriff said:
I have had very similar on my Griff, I have identified it as the door locking solenoids 'chattering' due to the door switches not fully braking contact! I replaced the switches a few months ago after completing my suspension refurbishment. What I did was to make a couple of small rubber pads and stick them onto the bottom of the doors where the switch makes contact, thereby enabling it to be pushed in that bit further! Rubber is approx. 3mm thick. Regards, Pete
Following the CL not working, closed and opened straight away, plus an issue with the indicator relay, I have now replaced the relay and made striker plates for the door switches (they had none....) and issue resolved !She hasn't chattered or squaked since, but if she does, I'll have planned new shocks/springs soon, so will report back....
Frank
bluezeeland said:
Following the CL not working, closed and opened straight away, plus an issue with the indicator relay, I have now replaced the relay and made striker plates for the door switches (they had none....) and issue resolved !
She hasn't chattered or squaked since, but if she does, I'll have planned new shocks/springs soon, so will report back....
Frank
Great stuff Frank, glad your 'chattering' has been cured for now. Regards, PeteShe hasn't chattered or squaked since, but if she does, I'll have planned new shocks/springs soon, so will report back....
Frank
Sounds like their are no hard and fast rules but from my limited experience
That's just the start so don't get me started on the engine, gearbox, diff and interior.
| Front/Rear Creak | chassis bolts need to be FT |
| Creak behind dash | sometimes earth bolts under whale tale |
| Squeaks | assemble suspension with copper ease |
| Knocks/Clonks | warn anti-roll bar drop link rose joints |
| Cracking | Drive-shafts |
| Whining | wheel bearing, sometimes worse while turning |
That's just the start so don't get me started on the engine, gearbox, diff and interior.
I've had experience of mystery creaking on a Scimitar; very hard to track dowm.
Eventually found a wishbone had a 'tear' that was clearly some months old (by the rust along the crack that was extending). Obviously, this could ultimately have been a disaster.
So if you've checked everything else, I'd recommend inspecting the 'bones with a fine tooth-combe, or equivalent...
Eventually found a wishbone had a 'tear' that was clearly some months old (by the rust along the crack that was extending). Obviously, this could ultimately have been a disaster.
So if you've checked everything else, I'd recommend inspecting the 'bones with a fine tooth-combe, or equivalent...
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