replacing all the relays
Discussion
Vehicle Wiring Products supply all the black relays (even the 40A ones that most people don't seem to have). The two metal cased relays are Bosch specials and will need to come from a Bosch retailer, or Land Rover.
If the existing relays are all giving problems, it might be worth checking for more systematic causes such as a poor earth, or corroded wires/connectors.
If the existing relays are all giving problems, it might be worth checking for more systematic causes such as a poor earth, or corroded wires/connectors.
careful here.
some are easy (fans etc) and can be replaced by most patern relays.
the fuel ones (bosch silver with stripe) must be replaced by identical items. they are controlled directly from ecu and have inbuilt suppressors.
get the numbers off originals and source via bosch VAG vauxhall etc.
even the bosch items are only £6 ea direct
others £3
some are easy (fans etc) and can be replaced by most patern relays.
the fuel ones (bosch silver with stripe) must be replaced by identical items. they are controlled directly from ecu and have inbuilt suppressors.
get the numbers off originals and source via bosch VAG vauxhall etc.
even the bosch items are only £6 ea direct
others £3
Had lots of Problems with the electrics, on my 95 Griff 500, I to whent down the suspect all the relays route, only to find that in the end after extensive checking the relays themselfs were fine, but all the plugs in the wireing loom and the relays sockets were dirty, and the contacts had opened up.
now that the sockets and connectors had been cleaned (switch cleaner) and the crimps closed slightly, the car has performed faultlessly ever since.
now that the sockets and connectors had been cleaned (switch cleaner) and the crimps closed slightly, the car has performed faultlessly ever since.
I seem to be having some intermittent problems at the moment and wonder if it might be these Boscsh relays that are causing them.
Firstly. sometimes when I try to start the car (normally when warm, but not especially hot), the starter will not work. There is no dip in voltage, so the realy isn't being thrown. If I fiddle with the ignition / immobiliser, it will usually work after a while. Mostly, though, I'll get a push start (from some fat coppers, last time) and it will work next time I start the car.
The second issue, is that sometimes the fule pumps won't trigger when I turn the key, and the car won't fire, as if the immobiliser has kicked in.
Again, by turing the ignition on and off, eventually it sorts itself out.
I also noticed today that if I turn the cabin fan on, the engine dies, i.e. no spark and no fuel pumps.
Do you think this may to the relays, rather than dodgy wiring (surely not on a TVR!) or battery / starter motor / immobiliser issues?
Firstly. sometimes when I try to start the car (normally when warm, but not especially hot), the starter will not work. There is no dip in voltage, so the realy isn't being thrown. If I fiddle with the ignition / immobiliser, it will usually work after a while. Mostly, though, I'll get a push start (from some fat coppers, last time) and it will work next time I start the car.
The second issue, is that sometimes the fule pumps won't trigger when I turn the key, and the car won't fire, as if the immobiliser has kicked in.
Again, by turing the ignition on and off, eventually it sorts itself out.
I also noticed today that if I turn the cabin fan on, the engine dies, i.e. no spark and no fuel pumps.
Do you think this may to the relays, rather than dodgy wiring (surely not on a TVR!) or battery / starter motor / immobiliser issues?
Gassing Station | Griffith | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff