Steering rack bolt torque settings

[Miss Tree]

As part of the refurbishing of my 500 chassis I am replacing any corroded bolts with stainless ones. I would like to change the two main bolts that secure the steering rack to the chassis but as they go through the aluminium casting and the steel mounting point (and are important to continued life when driving) I am guessing that the torque settings for these bolts are important.

I know many of you have had various rack replacements and I wonder if anyone had those settings to hand and could pass them on?

Thanks for your help.

[Hoover.]

http://www.parkersteve.dsl.pipex.com/images/torque...

not sure if covers what you after

[Loubaruch]

I would be most careful changing high tensile steel bolts for SS anywhere on the chassis. The mechanical properties of SS are quite different to that of HT steel.

Even on the exhaust manifold which is a popular area for SS bolts due to corrosion I have been advised to stick to steel. Apparently most SS is happy at low i.e very low temperatures but much less so at high temperatures and especially where the temperatures are fluctuating.

[phazed]

Just use common sense when tightening as the chassis lugs at that point have minimal thread and it would be easy to strip them.

The bolts use a flat and a spring washer.

For belt and braces, use a little thread lock.

[Miss Tree]

Many thanks Hoover for the torque settings table - very useful stuff.

I take the point about the tensile strength. It looks like A2 stainless offers about 30% less tensile strength than 8:8 HT steel which in something like a rack mounting means I'll probably go for new, clean replacements with the existing type and save the stainless for things like the panel under the silencer box.

Thanks again!