Discussion
Hi all, ongoing problem with the Griffith
I have had my 95 500 for 3.5 years and its always had the same problem, it partially cuts out and seems like its running on 4 cylinders, if I stop and alarm and disarm it starts and drives fine until the next time (4 times over the weekend) . I love owning the car but I'm just about coming to the end of my tether ,as they say ,any ideas anyone?
Thanks Simon
I have had my 95 500 for 3.5 years and its always had the same problem, it partially cuts out and seems like its running on 4 cylinders, if I stop and alarm and disarm it starts and drives fine until the next time (4 times over the weekend) . I love owning the car but I'm just about coming to the end of my tether ,as they say ,any ideas anyone?
Thanks Simon
Mine is still doing this but its like a bank has dropped out, there is no power, ie you decelerate, and it kicks neat fuel out the back end. I switch off (which presumably resets the ECU) and restart and its OK again. Seems to happen when I give it a few revs and then lift off but it has done it at constant acceleration too. Obviously dangerous if your overtaking.
I've got some bigger injectors as I'm not sure if one or more stick on when it happens or its electrical related. I'm going to persevere with the Lucas system for a while and try and sort it.
FFG
I've got some bigger injectors as I'm not sure if one or more stick on when it happens or its electrical related. I'm going to persevere with the Lucas system for a while and try and sort it.
FFG
I was going to offer either of you, if wanted to try my 500 ECU you could. It is mapped for a 20AM AFM and Bosch red top injectors, so might not be spot on fuelling wise, but would at least tell you if the loss of four cylinders was ECU related.
Having just read FFG's post I am not sure it would help, but the offer stands. I live in the East Midlands but work In the Cambridge and Chelmsford areas two days a week, and can bring the ECU with me.
I have to say that if it really is one bank cutting out, have you checked the fuel rails? Nothing else I can think of serves one side only
Having just read FFG's post I am not sure it would help, but the offer stands. I live in the East Midlands but work In the Cambridge and Chelmsford areas two days a week, and can bring the ECU with me.
I have to say that if it really is one bank cutting out, have you checked the fuel rails? Nothing else I can think of serves one side only
Have you checked the ECU plug/socket.
I had a similar problem a while back and found one of the connections in the ECU socket had worked loose, taking one bank of injectors down.
Pin 11 left bank, pin 13 Right bank
As said above you can check if the injectors are pulsing by plugging in a Noid light
Stopping and resetting the alarm etc. could just be the mechanical jolt that shakes the connection.
Its not surprising that the ECU socket wiring suffers as there is no real support when you move the ECU in the rats nest.
I had a similar problem a while back and found one of the connections in the ECU socket had worked loose, taking one bank of injectors down.
Pin 11 left bank, pin 13 Right bank
As said above you can check if the injectors are pulsing by plugging in a Noid light
Stopping and resetting the alarm etc. could just be the mechanical jolt that shakes the connection.
Its not surprising that the ECU socket wiring suffers as there is no real support when you move the ECU in the rats nest.
Hi Simon,
I had a similar problem a few years back and it took three years to find it.
I would get a noid light from somewhere and see if you can see what is going on when the fault occurs.
It turned out that number 7 injector was shorting through to ground and causing all 4 injectors on the nearside bank
to inject continuously.
Next time it happens try disconnecting each injector one at a time and then replace the plug and you may find when one
the faulty injector is removed the engine starts running on the faulty bank again.
I had loads of advice from various garages telling me it was the AFM and temp sensors which to me was rubbish.
The problem was it happened so intermittantly I never had test gear with me when it occured. Eventually the fault
became constant and it was easy to diagnose. (in tescos car park at 8 o'clock at night in the pooring rain)
Hope you sort it soon.
Paul.
I had a similar problem a few years back and it took three years to find it.
I would get a noid light from somewhere and see if you can see what is going on when the fault occurs.
It turned out that number 7 injector was shorting through to ground and causing all 4 injectors on the nearside bank
to inject continuously.
Next time it happens try disconnecting each injector one at a time and then replace the plug and you may find when one
the faulty injector is removed the engine starts running on the faulty bank again.
I had loads of advice from various garages telling me it was the AFM and temp sensors which to me was rubbish.
The problem was it happened so intermittantly I never had test gear with me when it occured. Eventually the fault
became constant and it was easy to diagnose. (in tescos car park at 8 o'clock at night in the pooring rain)
Hope you sort it soon.
Paul.
Thanks to all for offering your advise ,but I'll have to get my local Indie to go through all the ideas you've given as I'm rubbish at fixing cars !
Could someone explain what a noid light is please (told you I was rubbish at it) Maybe Tivs aint for me but wont be selling anytime soon ,cause when its running well theres nought like it ! Simon
Could someone explain what a noid light is please (told you I was rubbish at it) Maybe Tivs aint for me but wont be selling anytime soon ,cause when its running well theres nought like it ! Simon
A Noid light is simply a device to indicate the presence (or not) of the electrical pulses that trigger the injectors ON. An LED in the device flashes to indicate everything is OK. See:
http://www.bertram-hill.com/tvr-s3.html
http://www.bertram-hill.com/tvr-s3.html
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