How do you remove the drive shafts?
Discussion
I've had a look around the forum, but can't find instructions on drive shaft removal. I've just started to strip the suspension to rebush and re shock it, and wondered how the drive shafts come out.
My last experience was with Fiesta half shafts that fell apart in my hands so I'm cautious about jumping in feet first (usual tactic).
I've got the bible, which talks about the 6 TORX bolts. If these are them, do I just disconnect from the diff end and remove the shafts with the hub mounting?
Many thanks...
My last experience was with Fiesta half shafts that fell apart in my hands so I'm cautious about jumping in feet first (usual tactic).
I've got the bible, which talks about the 6 TORX bolts. If these are them, do I just disconnect from the diff end and remove the shafts with the hub mounting?
Many thanks...
When I stripped my rear suspension, I undid the shaft nut (41mm) and pulled the upright and bearing carrier away complete.This saves splitting the connection between the driveshaft and the stub axle.Then I used a couple of long 1/2 " extensions with an allen key drive to reach in and undo the pins holding the drive shaft to the diff.
The only "difficult" part was reassmbly where I could have done with three hands.
It does all come apart pretty easily.
Good luck
The only "difficult" part was reassmbly where I could have done with three hands.
It does all come apart pretty easily.
Good luck
Since I don't actuallu need to remove the drive shafts, removing the 41mm nut to release the hub carrier, etc. would suit my purpose, I think.
It that all I have to do then, undo that nut?
I suppose it would be easier if I put the handbrake on to stop the shaft turning. Is that what you did?
It that all I have to do then, undo that nut?
I suppose it would be easier if I put the handbrake on to stop the shaft turning. Is that what you did?
Most people dont have 3/4" sockets and scaffold tube handy, which is needed to break the hub nut. You also need new hub nuts (not reuseable) + thread lock & torque to 250lb/foot. A good air impact wrench will release them as well. As mentioned above, check the thread carefully, generally the way the wheel rotates...
Much easier in my mind to pop disconnect the drive shaft from the hub. If you want to remove the hub, the only tricky bit is getting the hanbrake cable off Its a snug fit & you need plenty of play to unhook it - better to unscrew the adjuster and then uncouple the adjuster from the chassis so you have lots of free cable.
The hub assemblies are pretty heavy to handle, dont think I'd fancy pulling one out with the driveshaft attached - which is heavy enough itself.
The bearing seats are very fragile BTW - TVR experienced something like 60% rejects on exchange parts due to this on the Spider wheel upgrade.
HTH, Dave
Much easier in my mind to pop disconnect the drive shaft from the hub. If you want to remove the hub, the only tricky bit is getting the hanbrake cable off Its a snug fit & you need plenty of play to unhook it - better to unscrew the adjuster and then uncouple the adjuster from the chassis so you have lots of free cable.
The hub assemblies are pretty heavy to handle, dont think I'd fancy pulling one out with the driveshaft attached - which is heavy enough itself.
The bearing seats are very fragile BTW - TVR experienced something like 60% rejects on exchange parts due to this on the Spider wheel upgrade.
HTH, Dave
Sorry I assumed the tools would be available if attempting the job, I didnt need a scaffold pole.
And no my rear hubs had never been apart.
I have the correct socket (3/4 drive)and I used a power bar and simply put some weight on it.
I did have to borrow a torque wrench though,luckily from work.
I had to take mine apart as I was fitting my own spider conversion.
Mechanically, it aint rocket science.
And no my rear hubs had never been apart.
I have the correct socket (3/4 drive)and I used a power bar and simply put some weight on it.
I did have to borrow a torque wrench though,luckily from work.
I had to take mine apart as I was fitting my own spider conversion.
Mechanically, it aint rocket science.
Spend, would you recoomend disconnecting the drive shaft from the hub, or from the diff? Obviously if you disconnect from the diff you have the weight of the drive shaft as well as the hub to contend with, but on a quick inspection yesterday, the bolts securing the shaft to the hub look far more awkward to get to than those holding it to the diff.
What do you reckon.
BTW I am very jealous you both have Spider wheel conversions. I've been waiting a year for mine, and it looks like they've stopped doing it now Neill Anderson has left.
What do you reckon.
BTW I am very jealous you both have Spider wheel conversions. I've been waiting a year for mine, and it looks like they've stopped doing it now Neill Anderson has left.
Didnt notice any difference in difficulty accessing bolts on hub compared to diff end - once loosened - ball end spins them off quickly. As I said warming the gaitors make it easier to get the access to the bolts, and get them out - seems daft but a little hot water suddenly makes job a lot easier... From memory you may have to turn the wheel if the car is jacked up as some of the bolts are obstructed by the shaft, if it is on ramps with wheel on you can get at all the bolts. I always torque these bolts whenever under the car - having seen some loose ones....
If you want to remove the diff, disconnect the dribve shaft from the diff. If you want to remove the hub carrier / upright remove the drive shaft from the hub. If you want to remove the drive shaft - just disconnect from both ends. The drive shafts dont fall apart they only have limited extension.
IMO if you are doing a rebuild, its worth disconnecting both ends and making sure the bolt heads and locking washers are in good condition then reassembling with copper slip. The thing to really make sure of in that area is that the track adjusters on the lower wishbone are free and well copper slipped - heard tales of grinding and packing to do adjustment..... From experience getting the rear tracking set correctly made the greatest single difference in handling to my car. So much for FSH but thats another story.
Yes the factory kit was excellent VFM, not just wheels & tyres, but all new wheel bearings, braided hoses, new disks, pads and of course the AP 4 pots. I must admit I was more interested in the rest of the package than the wheels - but it was such good value...
HTH, Dave
If you want to remove the diff, disconnect the dribve shaft from the diff. If you want to remove the hub carrier / upright remove the drive shaft from the hub. If you want to remove the drive shaft - just disconnect from both ends. The drive shafts dont fall apart they only have limited extension.
IMO if you are doing a rebuild, its worth disconnecting both ends and making sure the bolt heads and locking washers are in good condition then reassembling with copper slip. The thing to really make sure of in that area is that the track adjusters on the lower wishbone are free and well copper slipped - heard tales of grinding and packing to do adjustment..... From experience getting the rear tracking set correctly made the greatest single difference in handling to my car. So much for FSH but thats another story.
Yes the factory kit was excellent VFM, not just wheels & tyres, but all new wheel bearings, braided hoses, new disks, pads and of course the AP 4 pots. I must admit I was more interested in the rest of the package than the wheels - but it was such good value...
HTH, Dave
Okay, so I've removed the six bolts holding the drive shaft to the hub carrier, but the two still don't want to separate. I'm confident there are no more fixings, so I think it's just a bit of corrosion holding them together.
However, I am reluctant to just yank the hub carrier until it comes away, as this will be extending the drive shafts to their own stops, which may not be that strong.
But, since the joint is recessed into the hub carrier, I can't work out how to get anything in there to prise the two apart.
Any suggestions?
However, I am reluctant to just yank the hub carrier until it comes away, as this will be extending the drive shafts to their own stops, which may not be that strong.
But, since the joint is recessed into the hub carrier, I can't work out how to get anything in there to prise the two apart.
Any suggestions?
Copper slip the faces when you put them back together :-)
Try a bit of heat (kettle of hot water) could be waxoyl glueing them together - if somebody has painted them a gentle tap will probably work as long as you hit the coupling not the joint it should be ok.
Dave
>> Edited by spend on Sunday 30th January 13:01
Try a bit of heat (kettle of hot water) could be waxoyl glueing them together - if somebody has painted them a gentle tap will probably work as long as you hit the coupling not the joint it should be ok.
Dave
>> Edited by spend on Sunday 30th January 13:01
Okay, separated the drive shaft from the hub carrier, and started stripping the wishbones.
How the hell are you supposed to remove the lower front wishbone mounting? The nut is between the chassis rail and the bodywork, and it looks like you need a really thin 5/8" ring spanner to get in there to stop the nut from spinning!
Also, although the hub rotates in the carrier, I'd hardly call it free wheeling. How loose should this be? There's no graunching, it just feels like the bearing's full of sludge.
How the hell are you supposed to remove the lower front wishbone mounting? The nut is between the chassis rail and the bodywork, and it looks like you need a really thin 5/8" ring spanner to get in there to stop the nut from spinning!
Also, although the hub rotates in the carrier, I'd hardly call it free wheeling. How loose should this be? There's no graunching, it just feels like the bearing's full of sludge.
starmist said:Did my rear bushes on Saturday, got a standard 5/8" open ender on it. The only problem i had was getting the upper rear nut to take!!! as the gap between the chassis & bodywork was lets say slightly tight
How the hell are you supposed to remove the lower front wishbone mounting? The nut is between the chassis rail and the bodywork, and it looks like you need a really thin 5/8" ring spanner to get in there to stop the nut from spinning!
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